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Probably not, but windows are still a source of moisture so it's all about redundancy. Without a doubt a lot of water gets in the uncaulked gap above a window. I don't really trust the 50 year longevity of peel and stick exposed to water, not to mention a little sun through the 1/4" gap.
On a vinyl window you aren't really relying on the peel and stick to flag the top, the flange and top of the window itself are one piece. The peel and stick extends that flange protection up the wall and under the wrb.


On ZIP, which is pretty much all I use, the tape does everything. I have plenty of confidence in the system, the company and their engineers.
 
On a vinyl window you aren't really relying on the peel and stick to flag the top, the flange and top of the window itself are one piece. The peel and stick extends that flange protection up the wall and under the wrb.


On ZIP, which is pretty much all I use, the tape does everything. I have plenty of confidence in the system, the company and their engineers.
I still don't like how it channels all the water down the caulk joint at the sides of the window versus a z channel with caulked end dams.

As perfect as the zip system is at protecting framing, it still means more water behind the siding.
 
..but also water comes out that uncaulked gap,which is why you would not caulk it,the sunlight issue i don't really think there is one there as it's at the bottom of the flange rather than at the top edge where a break down of the tape would be an issue

but a lot of this is how things are accepted regionally and the personal opinion of the experienced guys here

while we can say ''imo all windows need metal''[and that's great] it's not necessarily true..

imo..
 
This is from a shed I built in the backyard, this is considered good practice and passes code. I don't hang over the 1/2" as mentioned because the dam interferes with the J mould, but your still achieving a good level of control over the path of flow.
Just looked up the Alberta flashing code. Looks to me, that J doesn't have to be cut, and that heavy detail is only required when you do what we down here call a pine wrap.

Or am I missing something?

http://www.scaa.ca/user_files/Reveiw of Flashing Details.pdf
https://www.nanaimo.ca/assets/Depar...rtments/Building~Inspection/Publications~and~Forms/WindowInstallationDetail.pdf
 

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Taking this a step further (and knowing that "25 mm" is Canadian for "one inch"), I'm thinking that if I did a standard J wrap around a vinyl window with integral nail flange, no metal flashing detail would be required.

IOW, one ends up with something similar to what we do here in the states...
 

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I'm with you, Tom. We aren't building an aquarium here, were flashing Windows. Windows on a vertical plane where gravity is working in our favor.
Gravity doesn't stand a chance against capillary action, not to mention wind driven rain. Taking a couple extra steps can make a world of difference in protecting your sheathing, structure, and insulation. I think it's worth it. Water rarely does what it's told to do.
 
..but also water comes out that uncaulked gap,which is why you would not caulk it,the sunlight issue i don't really think there is one there as it's at the bottom of the flange rather than at the top edge where a break down of the tape would be an issue

but a lot of this is how things are accepted regionally and the personal opinion of the experienced guys here

while we can say ''imo all windows need metal''[and that's great] it's not necessarily true..

imo..
Right, you only caulk the ends as a little dam, around here anyway.


I'm a proponent of flashing and overkill because I see plenty of rotted sheathing at the lower corners of windows that look like they were installed good enough.

But again, I'm in a place that rains 367 days a year. In Alaska all the precipitation was snow so it hardly mattered.
 
Right, you only caulk the ends as a little dam, around here anyway.


I'm a proponent of flashing and overkill because I see plenty of rotted sheathing at the lower corners of windows that look like they were installed good enough.

But again, I'm in a place that rains 367 days a year. In Alaska all the precipitation was snow so it hardly mattered.
agreed,location and experience are the key,i also have pulled many windows and have found that it's usually the location and exposure of the unit that is more telling
 
Just looked up the Alberta flashing code. Looks to me, that J doesn't have to be cut, and that heavy detail is only required when you do what we down here call a pine wrap.

Or am I missing something?

http://www.scaa.ca/user_files/Reveiw of Flashing Details.pdf
https://www.nanaimo.ca/assets/Depar...rtments/Building~Inspection/Publications~and~Forms/WindowInstallationDetail.pdf
We do it that way too, without cutting in, but the gap that it leaves isn't as aesthetically pleasing, so I prefer "letting it in" to the J trim. We have to do it over every opening, in any normal circumstance as far as I know.
 
Taking this a step further (and knowing that "25 mm" is Canadian for "one inch"), I'm thinking that if I did a standard J wrap around a vinyl window with integral nail flange, no metal flashing detail would be required.

IOW, one ends up with something similar to what we do here in the states...
I just read those same stipulations in my code book, so yes, that would be appropriate as well, as long as a rain-screen system is used.
 
Gravity doesn't stand a chance against capillary action, not to mention wind driven rain. Taking a couple extra steps can make a world of difference in protecting your sheathing, structure, and insulation. I think it's worth it. Water rarely does what it's told to do.
Everyone is entitled to there opinion. A properly flashed vinyl window install doesn't call for metal z flashing. If someone wants to add that detail, have at it. A lot of the Windows come with pre applied casings now that have a pocket all the way around to accept siding. You wouldn't be z flashing these either as you would lose the top pocket.
 
Everyone is entitled to there opinion. A properly flashed vinyl window install doesn't call for metal z flashing. If someone wants to add that detail, have at it. A lot of the Windows come with pre applied casings now that have a pocket all the way around to accept siding. You wouldn't be z flashing these either as you would lose the top pocket.
Do you have a pic? I haven't seen those around here.
 
That's about the only style we install. I think it's a Silverline by Anderson if I recall. I just install whatever is on site but I think that's what we typically use. We've installed a few higher end windows which haven't had the pocket.
I don't care for Silverline Windows much, but they have a really nice applied exterior casing.

The Windows I used on my house were KasKel Ecoshield triple glazed. The sashes are nice but I thought the exterior casings were poorly done. The ones on the Silverlines are 50x nicer.
 
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