The thing I don't like about the built in channel is I normally need 1 1/8 J for siding and think they are only 3/4.

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The thing I don't like about the built in channel is I normally need 1 1/8 J for siding and think they are o lay 3/4.

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You using insulated panels?

 

I dislike most of the windows and sliders with integrated j-channel. The ones in my area are a much lowwr grade econ window for production homes. Also, one misplaced hammer swing and that j is broke. I've been on jobs to fix siding issues with these windows and doors, in cold weather I've had them break when my guys were a little rough popping out installed vinyl.

 

A misplaced hammer swing will compromise an entire Anderson window as well considering the nailing fin is part of the cladding. There's always drawbacks and the chance to make an error with any product.

As far as the integrated exterior casing being on cheaper Windows, they can be applied to any grade of vinyl window.

 

This is the Jeld-Wen product. I almost bought a set for an income home - ALMOST.

The concept is good...

 

That's pretty much it. But we use the 3" or 3 1/2" flat casing with sill nose instead of the 908.

Another nice thing about them is the nailing flange becomes so large, you can oversize the width of the R/O a bit more to get a nice bead of spray foam around the window. This becomes a real nice bonus when you order Windows with pre applied extension jambs for 2x6 walls. If the gap is too tight, it's hard to direct the foam where it needs to be to work effectively.

 

How do you seal those? I've done cut out replacement windows, and all you can do is caulk the whizz out of them. But in new cpnstruction, that seems like just trying to make them leak.

 

Some builders use self sealing membrane (tyveck tape, blue skin), instead of attaching to the nailing flange on the flat, you fold it so it hits on the side of the window and on the house-wrap (turns a 90).

Some cheaper builders just use tuck tape to do the same thing. Then what ever cladding is used gets caulk around it like normal.

 

Some replacement windows can receive nailing flanges as well, but kind of is pointless being one would usually order new construction instead if flanged windows would work. I actually did do this once being replacement windows of the manufacturer I normally order from were twice as good as new construction. Problem is you need to install the flange, do custom cutting on them to get proper overlap and watershed. Then you still need to make sure the flange junction to window is sealed being they are just in a track vs. actually welded.

 

You could I guess. Not sure why you would, but it's possible.

I've done a few spec homes now. And I've framed many houses for a couple builders. The best situation for us is to have the framer install the windows and install the window sealant (envelope seal) at the time. Most framers have a telehandler and a man basket, so that helps immensely

 

We were hired to install all of the windows in this development of 6-plexes. They didn't want the siders or the framers to do it. I was subcontracted by the window supplier for this project.
Each 6 plex had two windows on the second floor, XOX, and it was heavy. It's only me and a helper, and we quickly figured out that carrying it up the stairs and setting it from the inside was way easier than muscling that stupid MI Window up the extension ladders. Even with the vents out.

 

We almost always stage all windows on new construction installs from the inside. We still set up a pick on latter jacks for these beasts, though. Better safe than sorry.

 

Hey guys, I actually sent my question to my local State IRC code consultant that was recommended to me about my questions and thought I'd pass the response along.


Hello Chris and thank you for your submittal; I have read your inquiry and prepared the following for you.


Regarding your inquiry about flashing please refer to Section R703.8
Please note the word "Approved Corrosion- resistant flashing".
Your question about if the Adhesive "flash tape" falls under the approved corrosion resistant flashing category.
1. Approved corrosion resistant flashing shall be zinc, galvanized or metal(s) that won't corrode; the flashing is intended to direct the elements away for subsequent drainage in shingle fashion such stated in R703.8
2. Adhesive stick flash does not fall under the approved corrosion resistant flashing under R703.8 and is recommended by the manufacturer that it be protected from UV, and weather elements.
3. Adhesive stick flash should not be used in place of an approved corrosion resistant flashing such as stated in the section R703.8 in all Windows and door openings.


Your next question about window manufacturer(s) Windows Fins ( Flange Windows )
Although we default to manufacture install instructions first and foremost; the section of R703.8 should and must be followed for flashing "window and door openings" and shall be incorporated in shingle fashion with the window manufacture installation instructions.
Adhesive flashing for Windows and doors must comply with AAMA 711.

In your case in Washington State; Washington State adopted IRC codes cycles as has much of the country. Washington State adopted and are currently following code cycle 2012. Please refer to Washington State Building Code Chapter 51-51 WAC International Residential Code 2012 Edition. Effective July 1st 2013.



R703.8 Flashing.
Approved corrosion-resistant flashing shall be applied shingle-fashion in a manner to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the building structural framing components. Self-adhered membranes used as flashing shall comply with AAMA 711. The flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish. Approved corrosion-resistant flashings shall be installed at all of the following locations:

1. Exterior window and door openings. Flashing at exterior window and door openings shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish or to the water-resistive barrier for subsequent drainage. Flashing at exterior window and door openings shall be installed in accordance with one or more of the following:1.1. The fenestration manufacturer’s installation and flashing instructions, or for applications not addressed in the fenestration manufacturer’s instructions, in accordance with the flashing manufacturer’s instructions. Where flashing instructions or details are not provided, pan flashing shall be installed at the sill of exterior window and door openings. Pan flashing shall be sealed or sloped in such a manner as to direct water to the surface of the exterior wall finish or to the water-resistive barrier for subsequent drainage. Openings using pan flashing shall also incorporate flashing or protection at the head and sides.1.2. In accordance with the flashing design or method of a registered design professional.1.3. In accordance with other approved methods.2. At the intersection of chimneys or other masonry construction with frame or stucco walls, with projecting lips on both sides under stucco copings.3. Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal copings and sills.4. Continuously above all projecting wood trim.5. Where exterior porches, decks or stairs attach to a wall or floor assembly of wood-frame construction.6. At wall and roof intersections.7. At built-in gutters.

 

Can you give us the contact info for the IRC. That can be very handy.

 

So a vinyl window with integrated exterior casing would still require a metal flashing cap? I don't think so :no:

A lot of these codes are written in a way that may not account for variation in materials. That's why we have manufactures instructions for the specific product being installed.

 

So a vinyl window with integrated exterior casing would still require a metal flashing cap? I don't think so :no:
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They do here

 

Same here. Always need a drip cap.

 

Definitely don't need a cap here and never see one done with vinyl windows with flanges.