On some water front homes we have used a 3 ½” x 11 7/8” power lamb on top of the pl8 across the entire wall. Then cripple in 2x8 header bellow. This is more for wind load and the end to end header displaces the weight across the entire structure. This method kills the HVAC & plumbers who need to run mechanicals, but in the long run it’s better to run mech. inside on water front homes

 

Around here all exterior walls must be 2x6 and we always run out headers tight to the outside for insulation reasons.

 

wow, who would of thought my dumb question would of initiated such a stir !

 

Yeah, like Blonde wearing a mini skirt and a tube top at a job site can't understand why everybody just stopped working. :whistling

Ask a bunch of framers why they frame it their way and there's bound to be a fight. :boxing:

 

This may be a poor example but this is a frame I took over from a fly by nighter.
The post is missing a post cap to distribute the 7 ¼” girder to the 5 ½” wall below
having upload Issues, i'll try again later

 

i'm a window guy who does some patio doors and some entry door's.
we use 2 (2x10's) with 1/2" plywood sandwiched in between for the wall thickness. we run the plywood the full length,there are no air gaps or whatever you were referring too.

 

i ee alot of guys using 2 x 10's with plywood in between as well. do you guys also nail a 2 x 4 underneath to the 2 x 10's?

 

jesus, a boom to lift a wall. we use ol fashion beer and sweat

 

For me it is mostly 2x6 on new work, 2x4 on garages and renovations.

I nail the 2-2x10 together, with a 2x6 (or 2x4) flat on the bottom. The bottom is 3 inches shorter, 1.5 on each side. So the trimmers (or jacks) go right under the 2x10 header, and the 2x6 (or 2x4) goes in-between the jacks. The gap goes to the inside.

Why? Because it is how I was taught and faster for me then other methods.

Another guy I worked for separated his 2x10's insulated with fiberglass between them, then put on the bottom 2x6.

 

For doors I usually nail the 2x10 tight together and put the jacks right under it, and when the bottom plate gets cut out for the door, I nail that cut out up under the header. Gap to the inside for insulation.

As I said, spacing the header plys with plywood will get your inspection failed around here.

Also, headers right above the opening, not under the top plate.

 

It seems most guys use 2 x 10's and sandwich a 1/2" plywood in between. Then they nail a 2 x 4 to the bottom. Does this sound accurate to you guys?
Also,is it necessary to nail a 2 x 4 to the bottom? Whats th reason.
Thanks everyone

 

It seems most guys use 2 x 10's and sandwich a 1/2" plywood in between. Then they nail a 2 x 4 to the bottom. Does this sound accurate to you guys? Yes
Also,is it necessary to nail a 2 x 4 to the bottom? Whats th reason. No, space filler
Thanks everyone

Understand now?

 

are 2 x 10's used as headers even for a small window,lets say 24 inch wide?
for doors,i guess the plate is usually a 2 x 6?
remember,i am a roofer,but this stuff is interesting and you guys are top notch!

 

A small opening doesn't require such a header, but for continuity of height, it generally is the case. I've had situations with limited room for header on 2' width that were designed with the top plate removed, leaving only the double plate above a 2x4 header. I've also had situations where their was no header in the wall, just the two plates and the box was doubled in the floor system above with the joists hung from that.

 

thanks loneframer
for a patio door or entry door,the plate at the bottom(under the sill),is that usually a 2x6 ?

 

It depends on the wall thickness. However, the bottom plate almost always gets cut out during a door installation. I have done stepover door sills onto waterproof decks with parapet walls, although I prefer to step down onto the deck without raising the floor height with sleepers. It depends on the design of the building.

 

typically a bottom plate of a patio door or entry do will be a 2 x 6 .
this is especially common with 2 x 4 framing.

 

As per Shane...
Gap to the inside for insulation, so the Inspector can see it.
Use styrofoam on them to raise the R-value. Typically 2 x 6 framing here. R-22 in the walls is the target.
If you leave the gap to the outside, the Inspector can't confirm that it is insulated.

 

what are those long vertical pieces of wood in between the walls called?they are spaced about 14 3/8'' inches apart,should the drywall be nailed to them?:shutup:

 

Tomstrubles and yes, drywall should be nailed to them.

 

whew...wait i think mine is screwed:001_unsure::drink:

 

Not to add fuel to the fire but since I started back in 1990 I have never framed a house with 2 x 4 always 2 x 6.

The builder I worked for always used a three ply header, pluse plywood fillers. It was typical for us to use the form material from the footings for the headers.

This was usually 2 x8 or 2 x 10 material, I as the low man had to pull all the nails scrape the concrete from the forms and stack everything ready for cutting.

We would install headers at the prescribed height just above the window or door heights.

Over the years on my own and after one too many customer that wanted to change the window height I decided to install all of my headers under the plate and build down to the proper height. I also lost the plywood and would fill with rigid foam to the interior. I found that the sandwich always stood proud of the studs.

I subbed the framing on my last major project and the framers used a spaced header just above the windows. I had my spray foam guy fill the cavity with foam.
Hope this helps Chad

 

Our codes allow us to put the header on the jacks or all the way up with crips under. I prefer it at the proper height with crips above. Like Rizz said it just feels stiffer for the door. Picture a long garage door header all the way up with long crips and a 16" long plate under that. Seems more stable with the header right there where the door is. Many times on the interior walls I will put the header all the way up to allow for people to decide later if its a 6'8 door, 7'0 door, or maybe even an arch. Much easier to adjust if the header is up. When in doubt, Push it up!

 

We like to use 3/8 plywood as a spacer. We all know how the 2x10 and 2x12 likes to cup and swell. I have yet to hear the drywallers or the finish carpenters complain because the jambs were proud of the drywall.

 

One drywaller I worked with would not fasten to the header, just the 2x6 across the bottom of it. That way if the header shrunk or twisted there were no drywall screws to pop.