I'm really sorry but I see minimal construction here, just making code. I can't see the entire span, but it looks to be marginal for a 2X6.

Despite what most people think, you are not 'spreading the load' by crossing the crossties. The majority of the load is on the two adjacent trusses and they are barely holding the roof up.

Build a shed for the jetskis.

 

Good plan strapping the hoist to the rat runners, but now brace the runner to the rafter cord, then set some fixed chains or straps so you can let the pressure off the hoist and just use the hoist for up and down.:Thumbs:

Bob

 

Looks like a truss. Should have a dead load rating on the bottom cord of at least 10 lbs. That should be your second number if they are stamped. So spreading that load over 45 square ft should not be too tough. Do like glass said and add some braces. Triangles make a truss. If you consider what you have a bottom cord and glass's diagonals and add a top cord you should have a truss and distribute the weight. Make sure any diagonals are nailed good and not cracking. Use plwood gussets if your nailing is shakey. They need to hold about as good a the metal gussets that are holding your truss together. > Or you could reinforce one or two trusses to hold the weight by adding braces and probably doubling the bottom cord and adding more wall studs at the bearing point. Docs from a PE for that fix would be available around here for under $100<P>

I've been trying to get some pics on. How did you do that?

 

Hunh? I'm on. Bob, you have to remember regional terminology. You had me going for a minute. I've worked wit Maineiacs, Brits and Aussies. All have their own terms for tools and procedures.

 

Thanks for the advise guys. I was thinking and I am going to run 2X4's vertical from what you are calling the bottom coard to the top coard, right next to the 2X6's. I am right next to the diagnal braces that come from the factory. Any opinions?

If you need help with pics, I can host and show you how to post them:

Email:

coffeytim2000@yahoo.com

 

Without securing the ends of your makeshift 'beam', most of the force is going to be applied to only 2 of the trusses. They appear to be 2 X 6 and 24" oc. Given the span, you are walking on thin ice.

This kind of stuff always amazes me. Sometimes it will last for years and other times it will collapse within months.

 

cut a hole in one gable. make a strongback out of two lvls, slide it in,and hang away.

edit: by strongback, i mean something that will span from gable end to gable end...$$$

 

I read the post more carefully and see you are talking about 900 lbs. in that area. I think my truss engineer could easily design reinforcement to handle the 900 but since I am not an engineer I'm going to agree with Teetor, (which i very rearly do), and say "No". I'm certain the metal gussets are undersized and that would be the first place for rienforcement.

Thanks for the offer to help with the pics. I'm going to try again tonight and I'll let you know how I make out. Rob.

 

I just talked to a freind of a friend who is a framer. He is coming over to do a little reinforcing. We will see what he does..

 

I would stay away from "altering" the truss. The truss is a specific design and alteration to that design can change the dynamics of the truss. The truss company should be able to give you load calculations for their truss.

 

I've seen this question on so many forums I'm getting a little tired of it.

 

I've seen this question on so many forums I'm getting a little tired of it.

Then stop reading them.. You dont think you ever ask questions that have been asked before??

 

Then stop reading them.. You dont think you ever ask questions that have been asked before??

You ask the same question in multiple forums and think no one has the right to get tired of it? You should show more gratitude and courtesy for those that have tried to help you.

 

I thought it was a great question and I will be better prepared if it comes up again. Digging out the old books.

 

You ask the same question in multiple forums and think no one has the right to get tired of it? You should show more gratitude and courtesy for those that have tried to help you.

I posted it in the DIY forum and here, you need to relax before you explode my friend. Thats two posts on two differnt forums, sounds like someone needs to get out a little more. Just for you, I will be posting up more pics after I get it done..

 

You need to toughen up and try thank you more often. Mightyanvil out.

 

You need to toughen up and try thank you more often. Mightyanvil out.

Look at my second post on this thread... Try reading before speaking...

 

Let's take another tack, what is live load for joists? What is max load for a 2'X2' area? Not even close.

 

Let's take another tack, what is live load for joists? What is max load for a 2'X2' area? Not even close.

After talking to you guys, I have realized that there is more here then meets the eye. As soon and I am able to get out of bed in a few days, I have a contractor coming over to help me out.. I will post up what he comes up with..

 

I don't know where you are but here in NJ if you use trusses the design of the truss you are using has to be sealed by the truss company and submitted with your plans before you can get a permit. If the garage was just built give the truss the company a call and ask for their load specs on your truss and then there is no guessing.

 

Tim's right. You need to check your truss rating and it looks like the trusses are built for a garage. (No access storage calculated where a truss is designed so that you may store a specific amount of weight in the truss cavity, furthermore the weight should be distributed among several trusses and in your case you are concentrating all the load on one point (the area where the winch is connected to the 2 x 6's) in the beam and the beam is transferring the load to 2 trusses.)
As a rule of thumb for every carpentry problem there can be several valid and solid answer.
One would be to install collar ties to the trusses where the uprights (Diagonal 2 x.s) tie in to the upper chord (The upper part of the truss to wich we apply the roof sheathing). Collar ties are members of wood (2 x 6 or bigger) that used in a stick built roof. Then use the same beam on top collar ties. The idea is to create smaller span by picking up bearing in a action/reaction manner. Thats why it is possible to use 2 x 4's in a situation where in the past we would of used 2 x10's or 12's. I hope I made sense I know how to do this but I'm not good at explaining. It would be nice to sketch something.
Goog luck

 

Tim's right. You need to check your truss rating and it looks like the trusses are built for a garage. (No access storage calculated where a truss is designed so that you may store a specific amount of weight in the truss cavity, furthermore the weight should be distributed among several trusses and in your case you are concentrating all the load on one point (the area where the winch is connected to the 2 x 6's) in the beam and the beam is transferring the load to 2 trusses.)
As a rule of thumb for every carpentry problem there can be several valid and solid answer.
One would be to install collar ties to the trusses where the uprights (Diagonal 2 x.s) tie in to the upper chord (The upper part of the truss to wich we apply the roof sheathing). Collar ties are members of wood (2 x 6 or bigger) that used in a stick built roof. Then use the same beam on top collar ties. The idea is to create smaller span by picking up bearing in a action/reaction manner. Thats why it is possible to use 2 x 4's in a situation where in the past we would of used 2 x10's or 12's. I hope I made sense I know how to do this but I'm not good at explaining. It would be nice to sketch something.
Goog luck

Is this kind of what you are talking about? (The Blue in the pic) Running from the upper cord, where the roofing is tied to, to the lower cord or rafters.. Is that was a collar is? Thanks, for any advise..

 

No. but as I said there is more than one solution to this problem. What you are suggesting should work. ( 1 2x4 nailed vertically from bottom chord of truss to peak or 2 2x 4's nailed diagonally from bottom chord to diagonals of truss). Try to reinforce 4 trusses. Anything more is overkill.

 

I looked closer at your picture and it appears that you are about 6 to 8' out from wall. What you are suggesting should work just fine.

 

I looked closer at your picture and it appears that you are about 6 to 8' out from wall. What you are suggesting should work just fine.

Yea, I am 5 feet from the back wall... Thanks

Should I screw to the 2X6's or 2X4"s?