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Discussion Starter #1
I am a plumber but am not as skilled in framing and construction so I wondered if I could get a little advise. I just had a 26X26 garage built and am already finding that I am running out of space. I have 12 a foot ceiling so I have decided to hang the wave runners from the ceiling and back the boat underneath them.. What you are looking at is still a prototype but it is close to what I will end at. There will be two of the wave runners, 450 pounds each, pictured side-by-side and the boat underneath. The weak point I worry about is the winch. It is a Harbor Freight special. It was $149 on sale for $79. It will supposedly lift 900 pounds, but will it hold it for 5 months?? I have heard some concern about the rafters sagging also, any ideas? Constructive criticism welcome...





 

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I'm really sorry but I see minimal construction here, just making code. I can't see the entire span, but it looks to be marginal for a 2X6.

Despite what most people think, you are not 'spreading the load' by crossing the crossties. The majority of the load is on the two adjacent trusses and they are barely holding the roof up.

Build a shed for the jetskis.
 

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Good plan strapping the hoist to the rat runners, but now brace the runner to the rafter cord, then set some fixed chains or straps so you can let the pressure off the hoist and just use the hoist for up and down.:Thumbs:

Bob
 

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Looks like a truss. Should have a dead load rating on the bottom cord of at least 10 lbs. That should be your second number if they are stamped. So spreading that load over 45 square ft should not be too tough. Do like glass said and add some braces. Triangles make a truss. If you consider what you have a bottom cord and glass's diagonals and add a top cord you should have a truss and distribute the weight. Make sure any diagonals are nailed good and not cracking. Use plwood gussets if your nailing is shakey. They need to hold about as good a the metal gussets that are holding your truss together. > Or you could reinforce one or two trusses to hold the weight by adding braces and probably doubling the bottom cord and adding more wall studs at the bearing point. Docs from a PE for that fix would be available around here for under $100<P>

I've been trying to get some pics on. How did you do that?
 

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Hunh? I'm on. Bob, you have to remember regional terminology. You had me going for a minute. I've worked wit Maineiacs, Brits and Aussies. All have their own terms for tools and procedures.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advise guys. I was thinking and I am going to run 2X4's vertical from what you are calling the bottom coard to the top coard, right next to the 2X6's. I am right next to the diagnal braces that come from the factory. Any opinions?

If you need help with pics, I can host and show you how to post them:

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Without securing the ends of your makeshift 'beam', most of the force is going to be applied to only 2 of the trusses. They appear to be 2 X 6 and 24" oc. Given the span, you are walking on thin ice.

This kind of stuff always amazes me. Sometimes it will last for years and other times it will collapse within months.
 

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cut a hole in one gable. make a strongback out of two lvls, slide it in,and hang away.

edit: by strongback, i mean something that will span from gable end to gable end...$$$
 

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I read the post more carefully and see you are talking about 900 lbs. in that area. I think my truss engineer could easily design reinforcement to handle the 900 but since I am not an engineer I'm going to agree with Teetor, (which i very rearly do), and say "No". I'm certain the metal gussets are undersized and that would be the first place for rienforcement.

Thanks for the offer to help with the pics. I'm going to try again tonight and I'll let you know how I make out. Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just talked to a freind of a friend who is a framer. He is coming over to do a little reinforcing. We will see what he does..
 

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I would stay away from "altering" the truss. The truss is a specific design and alteration to that design can change the dynamics of the truss. The truss company should be able to give you load calculations for their truss.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
mighty anvil said:
I've seen this question on so many forums I'm getting a little tired of it.
Then stop reading them.. You dont think you ever ask questions that have been asked before?? :rolleyes:
 

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wreckless123 said:
Then stop reading them.. You dont think you ever ask questions that have been asked before?? :rolleyes:
You ask the same question in multiple forums and think no one has the right to get tired of it? You should show more gratitude and courtesy for those that have tried to help you.
 

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I thought it was a great question and I will be better prepared if it comes up again. Digging out the old books.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
mighty anvil said:
You ask the same question in multiple forums and think no one has the right to get tired of it? You should show more gratitude and courtesy for those that have tried to help you.
I posted it in the DIY forum and here, you need to relax before you explode my friend. Thats two posts on two differnt forums, sounds like someone needs to get out a little more. Just for you, I will be posting up more pics after I get it done.. :rolleyes:
 

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Let's take another tack, what is live load for joists? What is max load for a 2'X2' area? Not even close.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Teetorbilt said:
Let's take another tack, what is live load for joists? What is max load for a 2'X2' area? Not even close.
After talking to you guys, I have realized that there is more here then meets the eye. As soon and I am able to get out of bed in a few days, I have a contractor coming over to help me out.. I will post up what he comes up with..
 
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