Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be starting a job soon where the newels at the top of a stairway can not be bolted though the side into the framing of the landing. I am considering on using either

(1) Fas-n-fast (2" diameter bolted connenction)
(2) Sure-tite (axial through bolt fasterners)
(3) L-bracket style fasteners coverved with molding

Which of these fastener types would be strongest to use for a top of stair newel that is only supported be a railing on one side?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,969 Posts
Sure-Tite, as long as the lag has something to hit. You can run lag in at an off angle, & then bend to square up. It requires a big hole in the newel with a finish plug to fill the hole.
The Fas-n-fast looks like it would work fine, as long as you have something to fasten the screws to in the floor. It's big plus would is it's ease of use, & simple clean finish.

In the end, that's the trick. Every situation & priority requires a different solution. That's why there's no one system fits all solution.

Lately, I've been using 5/8" all thread, threaded into the newel about 4-5 " with good results. Shop testing gave me over 2500 lb per inch of bolt pullout in poplar end grain. Oak is about 50% higher.
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Which is the best Newel Fastener?

I shoud add that the subfloor has 2x6 joists with 3/4" advantech sheathing. I would be able to anchor the newel fasteners into one of the joists. The joists are not doubled up. Still think that the sure-tite would be strong enough?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
The 4 "Js" is the mount I use. Also very easy to level the post with the 4"Js" system, I fasten the J brackets a little shy of being flush with the bottom of the newel post and then snug the screws down into the floor and check for level. Then tighten the direction I need to move the post. I used to use plastic shims to level my post but since I started using the 4"Js" system no more shims and I can install the post in minutes. Tough set up to beat for strength and ease of use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
I do not know of the products you are asking about, but if we can get in before the finished floor goes down we will cut into the subfloor and set the newels into the framing. We use pl premium and 4" torx #14 screws:thumbup:. If we can not sink the post before the finished floor than we will use a hanger bolt threaded into the post and then into the floor. Again liberal amounts of PL and since you are using a molding around the base I would toe screw with the torx drive 4"#14's. The ones I use need a 1/2" hole to clear the head, that plugs up nice with a snug plug. We use them on poplar, maple I have even used them for installing entry doors prior to capping with aluminum. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
If you can cut into the floor at all, you could notch the newel around that joist and glue (construction adhesive) the heck out of it. Set it with screws into the joist to hold it temporarily while the glue sets up. Use shims around the opening you cut in the floor to hold the thing level until the glue sets up. That is the strongest method I've found in situations like this. If it is a box newel, you can also glue a plate to the floor and screw it to the floor, one that sits inside the newel. Then you can glue the newel around that plate. That assumes the subfloor is strong and attached well also. Good luck.
 

·
Remodeling Specialist
Joined
·
112 Posts
None of the above I always make my newel posts go all the way through into the floor joist.

You can use my stair ways as jungle JIMs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I tend to agree with Jake and the others who have stated securing the post to the floor joist, (with a bunch of 3 or 3 an a half inch screws). I used to use plain old constructive adhesive like liquid nails, but that is designed to be flexible. I have found PL constructive adhesive (polyurethane) to be the best. Once this adhesive dries it is not flexible, and the material will break before the glue does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
attach to floor joist after you cut sub floor then block all of the sides there is nothing better or stronger in this world or under sea then it:clap:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
I really need a top mount solution. The basement is finished and the hardwood floor has already been installed. Homeowner is their own GC and has things all out of order. I would have liked to have the posts in before the floor went in. They called me to do trim and rails after all of that was done. I have seen these used and they work really well. I just have not found a source for them.
 

·
I'm The BOSS
Joined
·
1,904 Posts
Depending on application,
I try to attach to floor framing and build it for myself that way.

If basement is finished already, your limited,

sure-tite or fas n fast would be my 1st two choices

the floor mount #3 aren't rigid enough , without lateral support.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,050 Posts


You can't notch the post over the top step?

I glued and screwed blocking to the landing, slid the post over and through bolted from front and back. Did this last year, I'm building a fence for them now and checked over the install, these posts could stop a truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,969 Posts
aaron,
Nice looking job!
I do have a question though. Why the change in balusters from stairs to balcony? It almost seems backwards in that tapers install easier on the stairs, where as sq tops are easy on level/balc sections. These days, it seems like anything goes as far as mixing styles.

I've done a few box newels mounted the way you described, with good results.
Thanks for the pict.
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,050 Posts
aaron,
Nice looking job!
I do have a question though. Why the change in balusters from stairs to balcony? It almost seems backwards in that tapers install easier on the stairs, where as sq tops are easy on level/balc sections. These days, it seems like anything goes as far as mixing styles.

I've done a few box newels mounted the way you described, with good results.
Thanks for the pict.
Joe

Thanks,

I used pin tops at the landing because it's a radius, there is no plow in the bending rail.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top