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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What do you do when you want to see the deck underside as v-groove planking when you look up?

How about getting enough thickness of deck for shingle nails not to poke through? I cannot count on the roofer to remember to bring, and actually use, short nails.

Saw the rafters? Sister on falsies, dropped? Build up at the edge, then create a taper with wood shingles on top of the deck above the lip?

Tell us something we don't know.
 

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What do you do when you want to see the deck underside as v-groove planking when you look up?

How about getting enough thickness of deck for shingle nails not to poke through? I cannot count on the roofer to remember to bring, and actually use, short nails.

Saw the rafters? Sister on falsies, dropped? Build up at the edge, then create a taper with wood shingles on top of the deck above the lip?

Tell us something we don't know.
When I do a screen porch with exposed deck,
I lay the carsiding on the rafters then deck
with 5/8" so that roofing nails don't penetrate.
Haven't had anyone ask for open soffits
on their house.
 

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We do the same as above. Install whatever it is that will be exposed, then install 1/2" CDX staggered seam over that. We still use 1" roofing nails to ensure no penetrations are made through on the interior side. It has to be a joint effort on both parties, the carpenter/framer and the roofers. If you are worried about them using nails that are too long, buy a box of one inch roofers for them, and make sure you are there waiting for them when they do it to advise them on this.

Spencer
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We have only done it using false tails sistered alongside either rafters or trusses, with the tails dropped about 5/8" from plane to accommodate the either square or v-groove t&g pine planking. We go 5/8 for all roof sheathing, and that goes over, so our nail base is 1-1/4.

About like shown here in this pic sequence (not mine, we don't paint much here, all stain). http://imageevent.com/meadowview/jobphotos/exposedraftertails

I was hoping to learn something new.
 

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Lots of work, so that it looks
like nobody did anything. :thumbsup::laughing:
 

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We do the same as above. Install whatever it is that will be exposed, then install 1/2" CDX staggered seam over that. We still use 1" roofing nails to ensure no penetrations are made through on the interior side. It has to be a joint effort on both parties, the carpenter/framer and the roofers. If you are worried about them using nails that are too long, buy a box of one inch roofers for them, and make sure you are there waiting for them when they do it to advise them on this.

Spencer

Yes definitly. If you want the job done right have you or someone you trust there to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)


Train station, Middlebury, VT Interesting tails from about 1885.

How about doing the scab-on tails dropped so as to then use 1-1/2" v-groove t&g, the drop set so the t&g planes with the sheathing, above. No double sheathing at overhang, no problem with nails, lotsa nice beef for pinning on that little teensie fascia you're going to do with deco tails like these.
 

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I just use 1/2" LP siding board laid upside down. Just remind the roofer how much fun it is to clip nails and caulk each hole.
 

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This porch was just built last week, I didnt do it, I was just doing the siding here but the guy building the porch seemed to know his stuff....he used 3/4 t+g with I believe 1/2" ply....no nails poking through
 

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I have done a few different things. actual t&g with short roofing nails, double sheet the roof (overkill), I have even made pseudo t&g out of 3/4 ply with grooves routed into it 8" oc for a bigger look. I have also done "inserts" under the sheeting of either sanded plywood or t&g (real pain in butt) Seems like everytime I have to do this is on something with a real big overhang so then it is extra aggravating
 

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We have only done it using false tails sistered alongside either rafters or trusses, with the tails dropped about 5/8" from plane to accommodate the either square or v-groove t&g pine planking. We go 5/8 for all roof sheathing, and that goes over, so our nail base is 1-1/4.

About like shown here in this pic sequence (not mine, we don't paint much here, all stain). http://imageevent.com/meadowview/jobphotos/exposedraftertails

I was hoping to learn something new.
Gene,

I've always done it by dropping the tail down 3/4" for 1x and then sheathing with 5/8".
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Not bad, notching. Saves wood, labor about the same and maybe even less than sistering a false tail.

The only downside, and those that frame with precision will say, so what!, and they are right, but for exposed tails, you want razor edge straightness out at the fascia line. With sistered on tails, you can set them to a string or laser line. With sliced rafters, you may need to trim a little after setting all, and if those tails have doodled-up ends, you'll need to be careful.
 

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Venting?

I'm doing one right now and need a soffit vent. I was thiking of installing cobra vent against the sheathing then installing the T&G between the rafters leaving it short of the facia to create the vent. Any thoughts?
 

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Exposed tails looks cheap. It's pretty common up in the PNW. Less work so less to pay.
The framer doesn't need too much cornice skill and "BLAM". He's done.

The cornice down south (Texas) was always full soffit with fascia. You only "saw" the tails on the 100 year old oak-framed homes.

In WA state I have seen the first row of roof plywood (we called it decking back in the day) be CDX, good side down. Then whatever for the rest of the roof.
 
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