Could use some quick advice for anyone not working right now and on ct, doing a double bathroom remodel and just pulled up existing tile to find a thick layer of paint, grinded that off and now I'm left with what looks to be sealed or polished concrete please take a look and let me know what u think. Moisture tests appear dry

 

Moisture tests appear dry

Does moisture absorb into the concrete? If not and it just beads, you shouldn't tile directly over it.

 

What are you trying to accomplish?

 

Tile floor 16x24

 

I ended up grinding the piss out of it and problem was solved thanks

 

Fwiw, I'm just getting into tile. There's so much to learn and learning from other's is proving rather difficult because if you ask ten people who do quality tile work for advice on a particular project, you'll get ten different answers. It's weird in that respect.

Angus, this saw situation is just an example. If I asked for advice, I'd get so many different answers. I have a lot of respect you and Rob.
I did a lot of research before purchasing my saw. The DeWalt and Ridgid seemed to be the front runners for under $1,000. The DeWalt seemed to be the winner of those two.

I see your point in the rail saw's pros, and I understand what Rob is saying too. However, water management is very important for me at this point. If I continue to improve, I could see me purchasing a rail saw in the future. I think I'd have the best of both worlds.

Also, someone mentioned using the HO's assistance when cutting the long pieces of curb; but I learned very early in my career never to allow the HO to help me do the work they are paying me to do. I know there's always exceptions to the rule. But, to me, not that rule. If I need help, i'll bring a helper. The HO can enjoy his/her day, I'm fine.

 

Yeah, I never solicit a HO as well. I also never use their tools or ladders and always act like I know what I'm talking about and doing. Kinda like when I'm on CT.

 

I understand the truth can hurt you. It's OK. We are here for your tile support group needs..

 

Didn't you admit that the water management sucked? The truth may have hurt but it isn't me that's hurtin'

 

...and

 

OK guys, I just wanted to let everyone know, this was all a joke. Me and Rob were not really going at it. It was a staged joke and it has obviously ran its course.

I apologize for taking it this far and running this thread so far off topic.

I trust Rob and his abilities. I would work with him whenever the chance arose. I have talked to some of you off the forum and know I have said that about him many times.

I started by trying to bust his jewels some but it carried to a larger joke wanting to see when someone would tell us to knock it off. I received my PM about this and we're done.

 

Lol, good one. :laughing:

 

Ohhh...you guys.. lol! :sly:

 

I just wish I had enough time in my day to stage a tile saw showdown. I enjoyed every minute of it though

 

Started with a dark old fiberglass tub. Then relocated shower valve to the back wall. Shower head in same spot. Warm wire heated floor and shower floor. This was the first time I used the ditra heat membrain. The glass door and panel are on order so curtain for temporary.

 

Why move the valve? Seems like you'll turn on the shower and get hit in the face with the stream.

 

Around here they might allow it this way but not under the shower head if there's fixed glass there. Shower heads tend to spray the water down at a pretty steep angle and hit the floor not much more than 3 feet away. You might get your foot wet.

 

Set the ditra, left for the night and came back to a buckle near the seam. Was pretty puzzled at first thought maybe I put the sheets to close together or something. For some reason there was a delaminated layer in the plywood about a couple layers down. Water from the thinset went down and swelled the layers up. Ugh

 

Schluter recommends UNmodified between Ditra and tile.

And, between substraight and Ditra it's whatever is best for the substraight, often modified.

 

Some thinset manufactures will pick up Schluter's warranty if you use their product. Specifically Ardex, when using their modified.

 

I know you've answered this before but where you finding the best deal on your rls system ??

 

ContractorsDirect.com

 

So Angus, you waterproof with a fabric using unmodified and will use ultralite on top even if it's schluter?

So in a nutshell we should be taking what the tile manufacturers tell us (use mod to bond) over schluter's recommendations?

 

No. I use AquaDefense for walls. The Ditra was only for the border.

I'm not the one you need to listen to. I do what I do and that's my deal. You need to figure out what you want to do based off what your feelings are about the situation.

 

And that's totally fine. My issue is this:

Most people rave abo fabrice waterproofing (schluter, nobleseal) and they want unmod to bond it. No sweat.

Problem I am finding is on top they want unmodified but with glass borders etc I'm supposed to be use highly mod. Stupid arses need to get into a room and figure it out so all the info doesn't conflict with one another.

When using Aqua D on a tub surround what do you do at the tub seal or do you fir out and drop your substrate to the tub? Curious as I've been asked to just hang blue drywall to the fastening flange of the tub around here and they use Kerri band at the bottom adhered to the tub with kerdifix.

 

Most people rave abo fabrice waterproofing (schluter, nobleseal) and they want unmod to bond it. No sweat.

Only Schluter requires unmodified. Show me another fabric that has same requirement.

Problem I am finding is on top they want unmodified but with glass borders etc I'm supposed to be use highly mod. Stupid arses need to get into a room and figure it out so all the info doesn't conflict with one another.

Again, Schluter-rule.

When using Aqua D on a tub surround what do you do at the tub seal or do you fir out and drop your substrate to the tub? Curious as I've been asked to just hang blue drywall to the fastening flange of the tub around here and they use Kerri band at the bottom adhered to the tub with kerdifix.

I notch CBU or whatever it takes to get the wallboard material to tub deck. For that seam, I use NobleSealant...Kerdi-Fix same thing.

 

This may be best for its own thread/fight but has anyone mixed Wedi Board with the Schluter pan?

 

Cutting so close to the room you are working in saves a ton of time. The tent has already paid for itself with saved labor.

 

Butt to top of flange, seal, set tile.

The Sika concrete repair caulk at Home Depot is the same as Noble Seal and Kerdi-Fix.

Tom

 

The Sika concrete repair caulk at Home Depot is the same as Noble Seal and Kerdi-Fix.

Hmmm, interesting statement.

While their attributes are similar, even NobleSealant and Kerdi-Fix aren't the same as each other.

Here's what I'd question. Noble and Kerdi and designed to be bonding agents and waterproofing. I guess I'd question whether a crack filler would give the proper adhesion to bond materials together.

I'm sure I'm splitting hairs here and if used as just a sealant, I wouldn't doubt the capabilities. But I don't think I'd stray away from using NobleSealant when bonding shower materials together.

 

One thing I got out of coverings this last week was these companies don't like to warranty their products when mixing
Seems 1 year would be about it if you did
Lifetime for laticrete and mapei if using all their products (waterproofing, thinset, grout, etc)

Might be different for noble since they don't have a full line

 

At a Schluter seminar last year I was told unless you buy your Schluter products from and authorized distributor they will not honor the warranty. And that there is no authorized dealer on ebay, a few guys said they buy the kits there and the instructor said those are not actual kits but parts put together to make a kit. I don't see how where it was purchased should void a warranty.

 

You are correct about warranties. I'm not worried about them.

What I use has been put together from using many different products in order to give me the confidence I'm installing the best I can considering price, product availability and speed.

BTW, Noble has always been helpful when it came to mixing their product(s) with another. And the only installation materials they are missing from a total install would be thinset .

 

Kerdi. I don't know much about it but thought it was similar to Kerdi. Since you're using the rest of the bottom components from Schluter, I thought it'd make sense to use Kerdi.

 

NobleSeal is much thicker. For such a critical part of the shower, I Feel much better about using it.

 

Has anyone used ProvaMat before? My main supplier out here is pushing it hard saying same as schluter but better priced.

Prosol distributed I think

 

There was a guy on the internet bashing the living hell out of Schluter and trying to sell the Prova line instead. Things got hairy with him. I don't have any personal experience with Prova because once you're threatened to be sued by a distributor of Prova, you're not worried about using it.

 

I used prova once. Didn't like it. did it for a friend who already bought the stuff. The fabric is stiff, and the drain doesn't have any adjustability besides up and down. I like that I can tweak the Kerdi drain side to side a bit to line up with grout joints if necessary.

Sadly, my friend did fall for the anti Schluter rap that Arizona douche was spewing.