I bought a Ryobi 7 1/4" miter saw on sale and use a Freud non ferrous metal blade on it. Go slow when lowering the blade and you can cut through any Schluter metal edge without issues.

 

My latest bathroom reno. I took out a closet in the adjoining bedroom to make space for this shower, and moved the closet 4' to the right of the new space.

This completely reaffirms that proper layout and planning is worth every minute spent.

 

Took me 5 days but turned out nice, here are some photos built a storage cabinet behind wall.

 

Took me 5 days but turned out nice, here are some photos built a storage cabinet behind

5 days for the whole remodel?

 

Ha, beveled subway! That was fun to grout, eh?

Looks nice.

 

I gave the grout job to my new helper he earned every dollar that day

 

It's a very small bathroom the shower and waincote make it look much larger

 

did you miter all the vertical corners of beveled tile, or just butt them?

 

Butted them but mitering woulda of been a solid idea. Might give it a shot next time

 

What's the best way to miter a solid piece of stone for the top of a shower curb. The piece I had to cut was about 48" long x 5" wide. To big for the saw.

I only had to do it once so far, and I used a grinder. It's there a better way?

 

We were talking about this...

 

We have our granite supplier fabricate the pieces. If it's a miter, they install it, if it's just a straight curb, I install it.

I've cut them on my saw though, not at a 45°. I could do it though if I needed to. I just don't see it being as tight as their cut.

 

The first saw I used was a borrowed Ridgid. I couldn't figure out how to cut the piece because of the bar that hold the motor.

I have since bought the DeWalt. It has the same bar that would get in the way of mitering those long pieces.

I didn't think of asking the supplier to miter the ends and I could just cut to length.

 

Why not flip the piece to the other side?

 

The first saw I used was a borrowed Ridgid. I couldn't figure out how to cut the piece because of the bar that hold the motor.

I have since bought the DeWalt. It has the same bar that would get in the way of mitering those long pieces.

I didn't think of asking the supplier to miter the ends and I could just cut to length.

I don't understand the statement above. So you're saying the curb is 2 pieces?

Does this mean you are wrapping the opening in granite so you need a miter like this

 

It's FAR from awful. The Ridgid saw was much worse.

But when it's in the tent, that doesn't make a bit of difference.

Then the rigid is God awful.

 

Then the rigid is God awful.

How about the Ridgid? :laughing:

 

Because then you have a height difference in the other side

 

? I'm not following. He wants to cut a 45 with his wet saw. The bar is in the way. Flip the piece and cut from the other side.

I guess I am missing something.

 

I was picturing a curb like Angus posted. Figuring that if I had to cut a miter like that in my Dewalt I would add a spacer to the sliding table the height of the lip that you would normally set tile to.

Or if you didn't want to do the spacer, you have the piece sitting on the table but at a 45° away from you which would probably require two people.

Or have the supplier do it. That's the easy way.

 

45° pointing away from you. I'm not sure if you could do it accurately with two people. Definitely couldn't do it alone. I think the weight would tip the saw.

 

No I thought we were talking about the subway beveled tile when cut there is a high and low if matched up to a factory piece

 

That's what I asked you about earlier... I had a homeowner pay me to tear out two brand new, never used beveled subway showers because the previous guy butchered them. One of the things he did was butt the corners which leaves large gaps where the bevels drop away from the proud center.

It was my first time doing bevel subway, so I bought the Ridgid 7" wet saw just for it's tilting head. So much easier than trying to do all of them on my MK101.

I put a T3 Razor on it, and now I hardly ever pull out the MK... It's too damned heavy.

 

My fault I use a miter wiz for long mitered edges works like a charm, to do 48" rips remove your slide table from wet saw lay down some wood to just above blade height run a cut into wood, now use wood as a table saw and run your tile thru. [emoji41]

 

Jon, this may or may not be helpful to you, but here goes.

The way we've started handling the curbs is as soon as we let our supplier know we will be asking for a piece on a specific day to give them a bit of notice. Things vary depending on the job but the idea is that if day 1 goes well the old shower gets demo'd and we get our substrate installed, I can measure wall to wall, or in your case wall to corner and figure your overhang, and then give them a number.

We just recently started doing the granite so I think it's been 4 curbs that way. I subtract 1/4" from the measurement between my walls and use that dimension by 6" wide. The 6" wide is with a Schluter curb with tile on each side and I can usually figure 1/2" for tile and mortar and so 6" gives me a 1/4" over hang with a little ability to shift stuff around.

It's worked perfect every time so far. The way if fits into my tiling schedule is after layout is done, I attach a level board to the wall all the way around to lay my starter course off of which is the second course up from the floor (or higher if it's subway) and I can lay the rest of the shower while waiting for the curb.

I set the curb and cut the tile around the curb because I prefer the look of if that way vs the curb being inside the tile where the joint is concerned. It also needs to be that way for the outer drywall to curb transition (the way mine are done). And yet another benefit is the way it works out with the schedule that the curb can be cut day one and fits when it shows up on the job site.

Hope some of that is helpful...

 

While I'm at it, this may be a bad picture, but I'm being asked to tile around the window on the left in this picture.

The other picture is the backsplash design I'm using.

Any suggestions?

 

Sometimes you have to bite the bullet on tools. Don't always look at how few times you'll use it but rather how much you'll be able to accomplish with it.

I have quite a few tools that I use 1-2 a year but when I need them....priceless.

 

I agree. But you weren't around to tell me that the Imer was that much better of a saw and lots of guys like the Dewalt.

 

Angus how is that imer of yours holding up?

I have been wanting to get rid of the old dewalt for awhile now. I need something with better capacity and a lot better accuracy.

 

It's a beast. Because of the new tent I have, when it's on a 2nd floor job, I don't even clean it until I'm all done. Hasn't skipped a beat at all.

 

This job was on a 3rd floor in Chicago. My TS-60 was set up on the 3rd floor in an unfinished room. A piece of Ram Board under the stand was the only protection. In the 3 weeks the saw was used on the job I bet we did not loose a quart of water on the floor while cutting.

Ended up saw cutting every piece (that needed to be cut) on this one, the glaze was chipping and the marble did not want to snap straight.

Water management on the TS-60 is the best I've ever seen.

Tom

 

I would like to pitch a work tent, links to a decent tent setup

 

Screw it, dry cuts from now on. Imagine the bitching about the dust.

TNT, how were the storms out your way? Hope all is well there.

Tom

 

Two big ones touched down to the North West and Central IL. We got severe TS and still lots of nasty wind, but as usual, the bad stuff skirted to the South of us.

Thanks for asking!

 

I will take a bit of water mis-management on both my Imer's. The versatility of the rail saws overcomes that issue.
When i absolutely cant have water anywhere, i break out the Kerdiboard tray we made to set the saw into to catch any water and suck it up with a wet vac.:thumbup:

 

That was never my point, giving up a rail saw for better water management.

I have rail saw and have never used a tent or tray. I've never had water spill over the tile, even when cutting 24" tiles. I throw down some 4 mil plastic and a moving blanket.

I'll repeat, I am not saying don't get the Imer or rail saw. Just be aware that the water management may not be what you expect.

 

I cut these curb pieces on the DeWalt saw. Bought some off the shelf thresholds and ripped them to the correct width with a homemade fence.

I think I had the homeowner help support the pieces when I cut the miters.