First curbless shower. Thanks TNTServices and MarcoPollo for pointing me in the direction of TUFF form, wouldn't have been possible without it. A few of finishing pieces are missing like the mirror, but the homeowner wanted to supply and install those.
1/16" grout lines lined up from floor to wall and around the entire room horizontally....tough layout

 

A few progress shots

 

It's been a few years since I've done a tuff form. Do you think it is possible to drill additional weep holes into top of drain (below the metal flange, nearest drain)
I remember there being the drain piece that attaches to pan. Just Can't remember how it was connected to drain piece that you have in above image

Reason for asking is, I got a call from homeowner about water coming up from tile outside of shower. The only weep holes they have on that drain are about 6 very small slits in the height adjustment collier (which the metal drain snaps into and completely covers the weep holes; not to mention they are higher than lowest point of shower pan)

I'm thinking capillary water might be the issue in my instance, and the weep holes on the tuff form are not getting rid of much water

thoughts?

 

.jpbhy

1950's home shower renovation, more photos to come

 

I use urethane grout so I don't have that issue.

 

Did that too
Silver gray quartzlock
Although the 2x2's are slate
Should I stop using stone in curbless showers?
And since when is urethane grout waterproof?

 

Thanks, and your right
Probably would cause a leak trying to drill more weep holes

I'm pretty disappointed with the design of this drain now! I've done about 4 of the tuff forms....and really thought they were the way to go

 

Steve, just a few quick things to consider......
I've viewed some beautiful showers on here that you've created. As a previous installer of the Tuff form, I know the system well. We've switched to the VIM System which has a series of 12 weep holes located in their clamping flange. The pans surface has a built in texture that creates a great mechanical bond with the waterproofing membrane (no more hand sanding of the surface). The drain connection is done from the top surface with a neoprene gasket so you don't have a threaded joint below the floor like your photo shows. The Tuff Form comes in 9 or 10 different sizes with offset drains in most sizes. VIM has one cutable pan with a center drain.
I've seen some absolutely stunning showers being submitted on this thread where the shower drains are having to be offset which distracts from the symmetry of the tile being installed. One last friendly piece of advice. (I have to say something as one of the few plumbers on this tile site) PVC drains aren't designed to be glued to ABS plastic. (-:

 

One last friendly piece of advice. (I have to say something as one of the few plumbers on this tile site) PVC drains aren't designed to be glued to ABS plastic. (-:

As long as you use transition glue you're fine. Sometimes you can't find the right drain, so thankfully they make glue for it.

 

That's actually why it's been 3 years since I've done a tuff form
Been using VIM when the nice drain is desired & wedi curbless for all others

Not a fan of the off center drains either

I think I will be applying silicon to membrane at shower floor transition from now on though.
It's amazing the amount of water being wicked into floor outside of shower!

 

I'm interested in hearing more about these products. I went to a wedi seminar and wasn't very impressed with their cubless option due to the height requirement....and the instructor was more salesman than technical so perhaps that put me off of their products.
In this particular instance though TUFF form seemed like the only viable option because the joists were 2x8, which, as shown in the rough in picture, is just barely enough to get a 2" P-trap under the shower. All the other products seemed to have the drain connection lower than the top of the joists (not saying they couldn't work, just that it was too close to call for a special order) or caused excessive floor height problems.

As for the PVC/ABS, the plumbing was done by a licensed plumber contracted by the homeowner. I asked about this same thing, but apparently it is very commonly accepted to use the transition glues here because all of our plumbing is ABS, yet a lot of the specialized shower bases/kits come from the US with only PVC fittings. Code wise, it's up to the inspectors interpretation of "plumbing system" as it's allowed under the code here to use transition solvents when connecting one "plumbing system" to another "plumbing system"...the definition of "plumbing system" is pretty loose as I read it though.

Interesting/troubling issue with capillary action of the tile though in your situation. Perhaps we dodged a bullet by using a schluter edge trim transitioning from penny tile to floor tile and it has acted as a capillary break. We used Spectralock epoxy grout for the floor and all tile was porcelain. I doubt it would even be noticed though as the grout is black to begin with.

 

Andrew - I'm aware of the transition cement. Although it may work, code doesn't allow solvent cement joints between different types of plastic pipe.

TNT- The VIM system advises on spanning between the joists with plywood so the pan can be set in a modified thinset. Not only does this create a chemical bond, it also aids in leveling the pan and sound deadening. I just couldn't wrap my head around using liquid nail to secure the Tuff form and without anything under it, the showers tile sounded hollow when tapped on.

 

Andrew - I'm aware of the transition cement. Although it may work, code doesn't allow solvent cement joints between different types of plastic pipe.

That's good to know. I don't think my plumber does... Generally use fercos, though I think I've only had two PVC drains.

 

Not familiar with any of these systems, but looked at the vim installation video and it seemed needlessly involved. Interesting discussion

 

As an alternative to these systems, on a single plane shower, is there a reason you couldn't slope plywood over shimmed joists and apply kerdi or similar as waterproofing?

 

I can't see any reason why not. I just like walking in, cutting the subfloor out, install blocking, drop the pan in and waterproof.

 

A plumber on a job sliced my Ebbe drain to "Make it drain better." He has a point but it would have been better if he had asked me.

 

Did a fun backsplash today. Glass and stone mosaic with a garden window. I really like how it looks. The challenge was getting all the rows to line up around the window. it has a Thanksgiving color pallet

 

I think I'd have gotten dizzy on that one! Looks like a nice job!

 

Found this gem today as I stopped for gas. SnapStone install while the station was open. I went in to get something to drink and the floor underneath wasn't level, I could hear debris under the tiles crackling and popping.

Can't understand why they just didn't prime, level and lay tile with a rapid set, oh yea, cheap, cheap, cheap.

 

Here's the one we are working on. Poured today and will start tiling the shower tomorrow.

 

Here's the one we are working on. Poured today and will start tiling the shower tomorrow.

View attachment 252217

View attachment 252225

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Looks good.

You going to try the Ditra heat at some point?

 

I've always been told mix more than you need is the biggest. If you think you need 10 bags mix up 15. You can always throw away but having to stop half way through an SLC pour will be a nightmare.

 

Rob, what do you do at doorways when doing heated floor in relation to floor heights? Saddle?

 

This one we are butting carpet. The carpet has no trim so I'll Schluter trim the tile.

 

I mix the SLC in totes, I can mix 2 bags at a time. Make sure you mix it as thin as the directions state, this a product you pour not place.

I use a bow rake to massage the SLC, drag it around to get it leveling then leave it alone. Tines down without floor heat, tines up with floor heat.

Find the high spot of the floor, work from there.

Tom

 

Second on mixing as thin as directed.

I work with a helper and we usually have to mix in another location. One bag in a 5 gallon bucket mixed is heavy enough. But if I were mixing in the area I would definitely mix as much at one time as possible.

 

I guess I should have made that clear, if you're going to mix in totes you have to do it on a cart or mix in the room..

Tom

 

I picked up an Ardex kit with my NTCA vouchers earlier this year.
The premeasured buckets make consistent mixes very simple.

 

Had that kit for over 10 years now. The smoother rusted away to nothing years ago and the plastic got brittle on a few of the measuring buckets but the rest of it is holding up. I use a 2' finishing trowel to smooth and feather edge with. A set of cleats is extremely useful as well.

 

I'm not much of a tile guy but I'm pretty happy with how this turned out.

 

Ok So i made a backlit glass inset for my own shower.
I started with some 1/4" laminated safety glass (obscured) and Hirsch glass mosaic, bonded with clear silicone.

framed the shower to handle the inset so it would be flush with the backer board.
Installed a led lighting system in the wall unit
Installed the glass assembly with Silka A1

I am using some 3D tile and will post more pics as I proceed

 

Neat idea. Hope those LEDs don't have any issues.

 

me too otherwise the back side is coming out lol

 

That's very cool Craig. Looking forward to finished pictures.

 

That's pretty cool.
[emoji106]

 

Bad ass!
Always wanted to do that!