What Nut Would You Use?
What Nut Would You Use?
Hello All,
I've got a few lighting control systems to install before the end of the month and I've hooked up a little test/demo with them in my shop. The switches/dimmers/keypads all use 16AWG stranded tinned copper pigtails, the manufacturer supplies really crappy wirenuts that don't cinch up as tight as I would like.
For my little system I used the Idea Cantwist Wire Nuts and they worked alot better. I also tried T&B #31's as well as T&B ResiMarr, both wern't as nice as the can twist.
In mostly I will be joining directly to #14 or #12, yet sometimes I may need to connect my pigtail to up to 3 or 4 others.
Although I'm not physically doing the hook-up, my electrician is and I want to supply him with the best means of termination.
Any suggestions?
See less
I've got a few lighting control systems to install before the end of the month and I've hooked up a little test/demo with them in my shop. The switches/dimmers/keypads all use 16AWG stranded tinned copper pigtails, the manufacturer supplies really crappy wirenuts that don't cinch up as tight as I would like.
For my little system I used the Idea Cantwist Wire Nuts and they worked alot better. I also tried T&B #31's as well as T&B ResiMarr, both wern't as nice as the can twist.
In mostly I will be joining directly to #14 or #12, yet sometimes I may need to connect my pigtail to up to 3 or 4 others.
Although I'm not physically doing the hook-up, my electrician is and I want to supply him with the best means of termination.
Any suggestions?
Hello All,
I've got a few lighting control systems to install before the end of the month and I've hooked up a little test/demo with them in my shop. The switches/dimmers/keypads all use 16AWG stranded tinned copper pigtails, the manufacturer supplies really crappy wirenuts that don't cinch up as tight as I would like.
For my little system I used the Idea Cantwist Wire Nuts and they worked alot better. I also tried T&B #31's as well as T&B ResiMarr, both wern't as nice as the can twist...
See more
I've got a few lighting control systems to install before the end of the month and I've hooked up a little test/demo with them in my shop. The switches/dimmers/keypads all use 16AWG stranded tinned copper pigtails, the manufacturer supplies really crappy wirenuts that don't cinch up as tight as I would like.
For my little system I used the Idea Cantwist Wire Nuts and they worked alot better. I also tried T&B #31's as well as T&B ResiMarr, both wern't as nice as the can twist...
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
3M™ "Performance Plus" Wire Connectors
I'd use the Orange/Blue [O/B] for smallest connections:
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Red/Yellow [R/Y] for larger connections:
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...and the Blue/Grey [B/G] for the bigger connections:
![]()
IMHO, these are the best nuts on the market....always a positive grip, these 3 sizes will cover a lot of wire combinations from 2 #22 AWG to 3#8.
You just have to decide which you need. The wire combinations overlap at various points.
The first link is to 3M ~ all technical data.
The links above pix are to Grainger...pricing data.
See less
I'd use the Orange/Blue [O/B] for smallest connections:
Red/Yellow [R/Y] for larger connections:
...and the Blue/Grey [B/G] for the bigger connections:
IMHO, these are the best nuts on the market....always a positive grip, these 3 sizes will cover a lot of wire combinations from 2 #22 AWG to 3#8.
You just have to decide which you need. The wire combinations overlap at various points.
The first link is to 3M ~ all technical data.
The links above pix are to Grainger...pricing data.
3M™ "Performance Plus" Wire Connectors
I'd use the Orange/Blue [O/B] for smallest connections:
Red/Yellow...
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I'd use the Orange/Blue [O/B] for smallest connections:
Red/Yellow...
3
My left one.
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There are 3 nuts on the left :laughing:
My left one.
There are 3 nuts on the left :laughing:
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My left one.
I liked the ones that were tan/red. Not sure what kind they are.
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Thanks, I'l scout around for some of thoes locally. I didn't even know that 3M made wire nuts...then again what don't they make.
The blue Ideal ones work dandy but can be tricky when joining a 16AWG stranded to a 12AWG solid, they have a habit of sucking up the stranded wire and balling it at the tip of the spring instead of cinching the lot together.
The blue Ideal ones work dandy but can be tricky when joining a 16AWG stranded to a 12AWG solid, they have a habit of sucking up the stranded wire and balling it at the tip of the spring instead of cinching the lot together.
Thanks, I'l scout around for some of thoes locally. I didn't even know that 3M made wire nuts...then again what don't they make.
The blue Ideal ones work dandy but can be tricky when joining a 16AWG stranded to a 12AWG solid, they have a habit of sucking up the stranded wire and balling it at the tip of the spring instead of cinching the lot together.
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The blue Ideal ones work dandy but can be tricky when joining a 16AWG stranded to a 12AWG solid, they have a habit of sucking up the stranded wire and balling it at the tip of the spring instead of cinching the lot together.
X2 with Celtic and using 3M wire nuts. :thumbsup: They are all i use now and i have since either tossed the others that i had or gave them to my helper. The only trouble i have ever had with the 3M wire nuts are about 1 in 500 will have the insert come loose when tightening and makes it hell to get back off to replace.
X2 with Celtic and using 3M wire nuts. :thumbsup: They are all i use now and i have since either tossed the others that i had or gave them to my helper. The only trouble i have ever had with the 3M wire nuts are about 1 in 500 will have the insert come loose when tightening and makes it hell to get back off to replace.
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Same story here....about per jug is NFG .
Even when NFG, they still hold like nothing I've ever used :thumbsup:
Even when NFG, they still hold like nothing I've ever used :thumbsup:
The only trouble i have ever had with the 3M wire nuts are about 1 in 500 will have the insert come loose when tightening and makes it hell to get back off to replace.
Same story here....about per jug is NFG .
Even when NFG, they still hold like nothing I've ever used :thumbsup:
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Even when NFG, they still hold like nothing I've ever used :thumbsup:
The only trouble i have ever had with the 3M wire nuts are about 1 in 500 will have the insert come loose when tightening and makes it hell to get back off to replace.
Other than occasionally using the T&B HI-GR green grounding wing nut connectors, I try and avoid T&B twist-on wire connectors like the plague.
IMO, something about their spring design just isn’t right and it seems like every third one will not tighten down securely, so just ends up being thrown on the floor and swept into the trash at the end of the day. Their inconsistency in making reliable connections makes them way too much of a waste of time and money for my liking. I prefer Ideal, 3M, Topaz or even… gasp… GB over them.
Ideal also makes a nice little 71b baby gray wirenut for very small conductors.
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IMO, something about their spring design just isn’t right and it seems like every third one will not tighten down securely, so just ends up being thrown on the floor and swept into the trash at the end of the day. Their inconsistency in making reliable connections makes them way too much of a waste of time and money for my liking. I prefer Ideal, 3M, Topaz or even… gasp… GB over them.
Ideal also makes a nice little 71b baby gray wirenut for very small conductors.
Other than occasionally using the T&B HI-GR green grounding wing nut connectors, I try and avoid T&B twist-on wire connectors like the plague.
IMO, something about their spring design just isn’t right and it seems like every third one will not tighten down securely, so just ends up being thrown on the floor and swept into the trash at the end of the day. Their inconsistency in making reliable connections makes them way too much of a waste of time and money for my liking. I prefer Ideal, 3M...
See more
IMO, something about their spring design just isn’t right and it seems like every third one will not tighten down securely, so just ends up being thrown on the floor and swept into the trash at the end of the day. Their inconsistency in making reliable connections makes them way too much of a waste of time and money for my liking. I prefer Ideal, 3M...
It might work, but I prefer a more hands on approach.
Celtic do you use the 3m WCD-P looks like it would work well with my little Milwaukee drill i use.
It might work, but I prefer a more hands on approach.
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Celtic do you use the 3m WCD-P looks like it would work well with my little Milwaukee drill i use.
Cant say i ever used a drill 
. I just tighten them by hand whether i use my fingers, tool handle or pliers. I figure by hand i know what the approx torque is on the nut and its one less tool to be carrying.
. I just tighten them by hand whether i use my fingers, tool handle or pliers. I figure by hand i know what the approx torque is on the nut and its one less tool to be carrying.Cant say i ever used a drill . I just tighten them by hand whether i use my fingers, tool handle or pliers. I figure by hand i know what the approx torque is on the nut and its one less tool to be carrying.
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. I just tighten them by hand whether i use my fingers, tool handle or pliers. I figure by hand i know what the approx torque is on the nut and its one less tool to be carrying.I do too, their Resi-Marr connector is almost a copy of an Idea Can-Twist ( I doubt they call em can-twist in the states though).
I'm looking around to see if there is an approved WAGO connector of some sort that would speed up trimout times. Being a Lo-volt guy I'm no stranger to pheonix ang wago connectors but I almost never see em in high-voltage so I'm a bit weary if they can be trouble some. Dealing with old 12AWG wire and really flimsy stranded 16AWG can be a real bugger.
I'm going to order some of these 3M ones up, its time for me to restock my nuts anyway.
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I'm looking around to see if there is an approved WAGO connector of some sort that would speed up trimout times. Being a Lo-volt guy I'm no stranger to pheonix ang wago connectors but I almost never see em in high-voltage so I'm a bit weary if they can be trouble some. Dealing with old 12AWG wire and really flimsy stranded 16AWG can be a real bugger.
I'm going to order some of these 3M ones up, its time for me to restock my nuts anyway.
I try and avoid T&B twist-on wire connectors like the plague.
Thats interesting, I saw a plastic stick type manual winder onece and though "what kind of a woman needs that?"...Then I spent a day helping redo a lighting control system in a commercial office space and thought to myself "I need one of thoes twisting tools". I have pretty beefy forearms but to get a real good twist on a big wad of #10 or #12 takes some serious muscle.It might work, but I prefer a more hands on approach.
I do too, their Resi-Marr connector is almost a copy of an Idea Can-Twist ( I doubt they call em can-twist in the states though).
I'm looking around to see if there is an approved WAGO connector of some sort that would speed up trimout times. Being a Lo-volt guy I'm no stranger to pheonix ang wago connectors but I almost never see em in high-voltage so I'm a bit weary if they can be trouble some. Dealing with old 12AWG wire and really flimsy stranded 16AWG can be a real bugger.
I'm...
See more
I'm looking around to see if there is an approved WAGO connector of some sort that would speed up trimout times. Being a Lo-volt guy I'm no stranger to pheonix ang wago connectors but I almost never see em in high-voltage so I'm a bit weary if they can be trouble some. Dealing with old 12AWG wire and really flimsy stranded 16AWG can be a real bugger.
I'm...
I won't even use that.
Twist by hand only...if I feel it needs an extra "oomph"...I'll give it a twist with my pliers.
I try to travel with as little as possible...move fast...get it done.
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Twist by hand only...if I feel it needs an extra "oomph"...I'll give it a twist with my pliers.
I try to travel with as little as possible...move fast...get it done.
Thats interesting, I saw a plastic stick type manual winder onece and though "what kind of a woman needs that?"...Then I spent a day helping redo a lighting control system in a commercial office space and thought to myself "I need one of thoes twisting tools". I have pretty beefy forearms but to get a real good twist on a big wad of #10 or #12 takes some serious muscle.
I won't even use that.
Twist by hand only...if I feel it needs an extra "oomph"...I'll give it a twist with my pliers.
I try to travel with as little as possible...move fast...get it done.
See more
Twist by hand only...if I feel it needs an extra "oomph"...I'll give it a twist with my pliers.
I try to travel with as little as possible...move fast...get it done.
Thats interesting, I saw a plastic stick type manual winder onece and though "what kind of a woman needs that?"...Then I spent a day helping redo a lighting control system in a commercial office space and thought to myself "I need one of thoes twisting...
Looks like Canada gets special wire-nuts:
http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/wire_termination/twist-on/can_twist.php
These are what 90% of guys use here ^^
http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/wire_termination/twist-on/can_twist.php
These are what 90% of guys use here ^^
Looks like Canada gets special wire-nuts:
http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/wire_termination/twist-on/can_twist.php
These are what 90% of guys use here ^^
See more
http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/wire_termination/twist-on/can_twist.php
These are what 90% of guys use here ^^
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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