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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I used to be a heavy commuter years back and only used conventional motor oil in all my changes. Never had any sludge build up in any of my vehicles the oil was always like gold halfway through a change. I could never justify switching to synthetic oils because of the mileage I put on over the years using Conventional.


I now run 10w30 Rotella-T diesel oil in all of my vehicles, which are all gas powered. Slightly more expensive then conventional oil but well under synthetic. This oil is getting to be very popular for use in gas engines. The extra cleaning agents have been known to slowly de-sludge neglected engines over a period of changes.
 

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Working
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Valvoline was the first motor oil company. Figure they must be doing some thing right to be in business this long and not have a bad reputation. It has never let me down and isn't unreal expensive. When I was running diesel engines rotella is what the warranty said to use so I used that. The gas warranties have said nothing about oil brand just weight.

Cole
 

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Whatever is on sale.
I think this is a case where quantity is more important than quality. Check your oil often and add when needed. Change at regular intervals and things should be ok. My Ford van just turned 275k yesterday. Gas engine with semi regular service. I do not baby it, nor do I abuse it.
 

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Trucks - what ever conventional oil.
Car - Mobil 1 full synthetic - not the extended change stuff, just the regular. I cooked the extended stuff in under 2000 miles.
 

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John the Builder
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The very best money can buy - or whatever that stuff is that comes out of the squirty thing at Jiffy Lube, or Jacks's, or whatever place is close by when the "Change oil" flashes on the dash.
 

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Drywall Slave
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Castrol edge FS. Cost a bit much but I buy it when they have the deals on the oil and filters then use one of the coupons they send me. Bring out changes to about $45 a time.
Same here! but once you start you half to continue with the synthetic ..your to flush the engine If you go back to traditional oils...And If using traditional oil You need the engine flushed before starting the use of synthetic . You can not mix the two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It is common enough that switching to synthetic can result in leaks. Regular oil has all kinds of impurities that stick to the sides of the pan and seals. This would be especially true for motors that have a decent amount of miles on them.
 

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Same here! but once you start you half to continue with the synthetic ..your to flush the engine If you go back to traditional oils...And If using traditional oil You need the engine flushed before starting the use of synthetic . You can not mix the two.
Neither of those facts are true..... You can You can switch back no problem, and you can mix the oils (probably not best practice), but that's essentially what blended oil it. And I would never do an engine flush.... Great way to damage your internals and cylinder walls.
 

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It is common enough that switching to synthetic can result in leaks. Regular oil has all kinds of impurities that stick to the sides of the pan and seals. This would be especially true for motors that have a decent amount of miles on them.

You're thinking more of Leaded fuel....It's not that conventional oil has impurities, but rather the molecules vary in size and uniform. The difference between synthetic and conventional is mostly an issue on cold starts. After the oil is warmed up the molecules are uniform.
 
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