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What angle do you set your saw to cut corners on bevel cedar siding?

In the past I've just used a piece I took off for a template.

saw is over at 45 but was is the other angle?

Cheers!
 

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Forming and Framing
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What angle do you set your saw to cut corners on bevel cedar siding?

In the past I've just used a piece I took off for a template.

saw is over at 45 but was is the other angle?

Cheers!
Assuming a 90* corner.. set the saw to 45*.... the other angle is 45...
Not too sure what the question is...
 

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What angle do you set your saw to cut corners on bevel cedar siding?

In the past I've just used a piece I took off for a template.

saw is over at 45 but was is the other angle?

Cheers!

My Dad used to like to miter bevel cedar corners, seems I remember if you cut from the back side its 90/45 I think it was something like a 6-10 degree angle 45 bevel if you had to cut from the front (assuming a circular saw) This day and age with sliders you should just be able to lay the piece flat and use 45/90 on a slider. Its been so long since I started using corner boards its kind of fuzzy. ;)
 

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stacker of sticks
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It's impossible for us to tell you without the siding in our hand. How big is it? 6.5"?? What does it bevel from and to?

Just take 2 small pieces and put them on a corner and mark it out to figure it out.
 

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For those that still don't follow what he's asking, I'm pretty sure he's asking how to cut the compound miter on beveled siding at the corners. Most aren't aware there is a compound miter because we use corner board now. But if you're replacing siding on an old house then you have to know how to make these cuts. I usually take a piece of scrap and do a test cut to see if it fits. It's basically just a guess but once I know the angle, I can cut everything.
 

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Sat On... or do you prefer Beach....:laughing:....

I think I understand your question now.

To actually calc your angle, we would need your siding bevel degrees and your bevel angle relative to your wall plane (assuming it's a lap siding) and your orientation on your saw (flat side or bevel side down).

Even then, I'd sure have to pull out my trig programs and a case of beer to figure it out.... but I bet one of our better mathmaticians might get by with one six pack.

Honestly, I'd just template it with scraps...trial/error it.

Attached is a bay window finish that ate my lunch. It's not your exact application, but the principals are similar.

Both vertical angles/planes are different.... both framing it and finishing it, quite frankly confused the H out of me.

My brother in law has graduate math degrees, and he did not want to trig it out..... but he did conclude....

Note my mismatched ship/lap lines.... It was a mathmatical impossibility to keep them aligned, shy of remilling down each course of the siding.

I would be interested if there are any simpler answers to your question.

Best and Good luck
 

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Hey Mountain what state are you in?
Hey Cali/Mike....

You do nice work down south there in San Clemente..I've paid attention to it... my son's build was up in the lantern district at Dana..... we'd cruise around looking at the "high scale" properties in San Clemente sometimes on the way back from Lowes (mostly used Ganahl).

I'm the Colorado Rockies foothills overlooking Denver at 7600 feet.... but I'm wearing flip-flops today...and wish I could afford your Beach towns.

Wow...was your earthquake country and CBC and Tit 24 a big learning experience for me and my son....added 1800 on his cottage.. but still have a remod on the cottage.

Maybe see you on a job sometime driving around and say hi... do you yard sign...Cocanuts is closed now... but I could buy ya a beer at the wharf.....

Best to ya....

Peter

(and didn't mean to astray from the thread... but I think there is a consensus to template/trial/error it.)
 

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Note my mismatched ship/lap lines.... It was a mathmatical impossibility to keep them aligned, shy of remilling down each course of the siding.
The other way of matching them is split the center runs you have in half, Run each half at an angle to match the side angles. Angle rip the first and last course to match up with the trim and you're good. It adds some interest and gives a perfect match.
 

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The other way of matching them is split the center runs you have in half, Run each half at an angle to match the side angles. Angle rip the first and last course to match up with the trim and you're good. It adds some interest and gives a perfect match.
Thanks HD.... Not sure I grasp it yet.... gotta think a little.... do you mean in a very subtle chevron pattern?????? (or am I thinking wrong/mixed-up)

Best
Peter
 

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Thanks HD.... Not sure I grasp it yet.... gotta think a little.... do you mean in a very subtle chevron pattern?????? (or am I thinking wrong/mixed-up)

Best
Peter
Shallow chevron with the sides (just keep following the sides angle) or (my favorite), shallow "W" with the sides, so a shallow upside down chevron on the front.

Mark up your pic and see what you think - a little more work, but it can be a nice design detail.
 

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GC/carpenter
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Tom Struble said:
I find that there is no 1 angle..for me anyway,double bevel chop saw is a must so the clap is always cut laying on it's back
You do nice work, Struble
 
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