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I went to a house where homeowner has hwh problem.The electric hwh is malfunctioning for some reason with the well pump running.
this pump has a well troll pressure tank wx-202.the pressure was 45 psi taken at the stem and am wondering if this is the problem or not, the water prssure gauge reads nothing when it is running.all so low pressure going to the 2nd floor bath.I was changing out a furnace and kept a eye on the hwh and only when i closed the cold water valve entering the hwh. the tank would heat up and when valve is opened i hear well kik on and it seams that cold water is forced toward the hwh and causing heat loss.
any ideas
 

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I went to a house where homeowner has hwh problem.The electric hwh is malfunctioning for some reason with the well pump running.
this pump has a well troll pressure tank wx-202.the pressure was 45 psi taken at the stem and am wondering if this is the problem or not, the water prssure gauge reads nothing when it is running.all so low pressure going to the 2nd floor bath.I was changing out a furnace and kept a eye on the hwh and only when i closed the cold water valve entering the hwh. the tank would heat up and when valve is opened i hear well kik on and it seams that cold water is forced toward the hwh and causing heat loss.
any ideas

You hear the well pump kick on so that verifies that the pump is building up to the high pressure setting and shutting off. Shut it down and change that pressure gauge.
If you open the valve to the water heater & you hear the well kick on, it means there is water going out of it. Check for a leak somewhere. I really don't think the "water is forced" from the well pump to the heater is causing the problem of heat loss.
 

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I don't think you have a well pump problem either but you should know that there is no well pump out there for which the 202 is an appropriate sized tank. It's small even for a 2" well with a jet pump. The 202, properly inflated, holds 5 gallons of water. Wellxtrol says 6 gallons; it's 5. That being said, the 202 is one of the most reliable tanks out there and it may be easiest and cost efficient to just add another with it. Regardless of well size, you're trying to achieve a one minute pump run time per cycle of the pump.

And despite the fact that the pump will run on the same pressure switch settings, giving the same average pressure, your customers will claim better pressure throughout the house. The greater tank capacity delivers the water more consistently and with a greater volume of water at the back end of your plumbing, that produces the perception of better pressure. And we know perception is more important than reality. I had to concede the point after 573 customers told me the pressure was much better....they need the tank capacity to adequately protect the pump though, the better delivery is just a side benefit.

One thing, well related, that could be causing you a problem is if they have a 4" or 5" well with a hole in the drop pipe or a bad line check valve on the submersible pump. If so, you'll have water running back down the well after pump shut-off and that can cause a vacuum on your household water line. Put that new gauge in, check your tank air pressure (with the water drained from the tank), and make sure you're holding pressure at the tank. If not, you need a well driller. If that is the problem, call a driller, and don't even think about putting a line check valve on the supply side of the tank.
 
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