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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my finished floor height is 1". Do i have to shim the door frame up an inch or would 3/4" be good enough?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so if finished floor is an inch i should shim it up about 1/2 inch, It is a welded buck that has clips on bottom
 

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your frame should be anchor to the opening on top of the finished floor. your door will have a 3/4" undercut to clear the floor. no need to shim the frame up and 1/2".
 

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That's my take
Figured as much.

Then the jamb is typically anchored to the rough floor with additional wall anchors set up the legs. The jamb can also be shimmed with a burke shim if necessary to level the head.
I can only imagine that the hardware schedule will have you add a threshold,sweep, and smoke seal.

You might want to make sure the doors are being cut to the proper dimensions. If not you can back charge for having to cut the doors down. Dewalt makes a pretty nice track saw perfect for the job. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yes hollow welded buck going in before finished floor and sheetrock.the finished floor will be 1". Therefore i am setting my buck an inch high. There will also be some kind of saddle for the flooring transition.In the apartments they will have bamboo flooring and in the hallway they will have tile.I think im good just wanted to double check with someone more familiar with welded bucks. Thanks for all your info
 

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Is the building going to be pressurized? Do you need to add gypcrete to the jamb? Yes setting a hollow metal is pretty much the same as setting a wood frame in a residential application. However there are reasons why thing are done differently in this type of construction.

You say the finished floor with be 1" higher. Are they planning to raeco the floor first before hardwood? I would get the dimensions of the the slab then base my elevation of the jamb head off that. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
They finally gave me an answer on the flooring. They are using 3/4" bamboo with 1/4 " underlayment. The doors are 8' high so i set my headers at 8'2. They are gonna have to flashpatch in some areas because the concrete has some spots where it dips about an inch.
 

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be sure to establish a benchmark to work from. you should have architect approve BM as well. Did something similar recently. I hate working out of sequence, it expands the 'error factor' substantially.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
the engineer okd my b.m. and my finished floor height. The problem now is im not going back till i get another payment. They are 3 weeks behind and keep giving me the run around so im leaving monday if they dont catch up w/ payments. Ive never been involved with such a ****ty situation but i think this is all i could do at this point.
 
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