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Lay out the short truss at one end of the building and the longest at the other infill like the front squad in an infantry platoon short to tall....
Bury the bow in the back wall, or behind a patio, or garage if possible.

Submit a change order for the extra 1/2 Square foot of floor space ~100.00$:blink:

shim as needed to reduce bows in the "rim joist"

3/8 " in ROUGH framing and you call the office?:laughing:

Up grade to masonry veneer to hide the wave.

Let the long trusses dry to ~12-4 % percent moisture and remeasure.

Most likely the assembly jig end clamp loosen up during the last couple of trusses getting pressed together.....

Nothing is sadder then a finish carpenter applying finish specs to ROUGH framing....IMO. 3/8" over 36' is about one part in 1200.....that is good enough to make a working black powder rifle...

You NEED a mentor to stop you from having to reinvent house framing, and borrow a couple of books on framing, AND READ THEM.
 

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Lay out the short truss at one end of the building and the longest at the other infill like the front squad in an infantry platoon short to tall....
Bury the bow in the back wall, or behind a patio, or garage if possible.

Submit a change order for the extra 1/2 Square foot of floor space ~100.00$:blink:

shim as needed to reduce bows in the "rim joist"

3/8 " in ROUGH framing and you call the office?:laughing:

Up grade to masonry veneer to hide the wave.

Let the long trusses dry to ~12-4 % percent moisture and remeasure.

Most likely the assembly jig end clamp loosen up during the last couple of trusses getting pressed together.....

Nothing is sadder then a finish carpenter applying finish specs to ROUGH framing....IMO. 3/8" over 36' is about one part in 1200.....that is good enough to make a working black powder rifle...

You NEED a mentor to stop you from having to reinvent house framing, and borrow a couple of books on framing, AND READ THEM.
Don't be too hard on him, I like his attitude.

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Discussion Starter #24
Lay out the short truss at one end of the building and the longest at the other infill like the front squad in an infantry platoon short to tall....
Bury the bow in the back wall, or behind a patio, or garage if possible.

Submit a change order for the extra 1/2 Square foot of floor space ~100.00$:blink:

shim as needed to reduce bows in the "rim joist"

3/8 " in ROUGH framing and you call the office?:laughing:

Up grade to masonry veneer to hide the wave.

Let the long trusses dry to ~12-4 % percent moisture and remeasure.

Most likely the assembly jig end clamp loosen up during the last couple of trusses getting pressed together.....

Nothing is sadder then a finish carpenter applying finish specs to ROUGH framing....IMO. 3/8" over 36' is about one part in 1200.....that is good enough to make a working black powder rifle...

You NEED a mentor to stop you from having to reinvent house framing, and borrow a couple of books on framing, AND READ THEM.

Listen Im not claiming the worlds best knowledge of carpentry or framing I was just asking for a suggestion. The trusses went in today and the second floor walls. I split the difference and ran a string on both my rim joists no issues. Didn't think it was too much to ask some advice from the forum.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
I would not hire a framer a second time if anything was 3/8" out.
The boss said not to trim them. At the end of the day its his business not mine. I wouldnt have used friggen web trusses for the floor. I wouldve gone I joists and skipped this entire issue but such is life
 

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The boss said not to trim them. At the end of the day its his business not mine. I wouldnt have used friggen web trusses for the floor. I wouldve gone I joists and skipped this entire issue but such is life
Not your name on the job.
 

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Does Mr. I'm nervous, worry about making the house 3/8" bigger than the plans? Is the poured basement/footings with an 1 inch in any dimension, did You shim the plates + or - < and 1/8"?, Are they Flat and square within a 1/2"????

regards I-joists vs trusses, trusses save the homeowner hundreds if not thousands on HVAC and MEP labor, and leaves lower floors clear of ugly room shrinking pipe and air chases. Their largest issues are they are special order made to fit and require added step(s) on the now larger stairways + About 5-7% more sidewalls materials.

If the West end of the floor is an inch higher than the 30' away East end, won't a perpendicular wall be About a big 1/4" out of plumb?

About half the time If the brick ledge isn't far enough under grade, we have to start with a cut to height course in spots, sometimes a RAKE!:censored:

I'm so happy the GC/owner saved a couple of hundred dollars betraying our nation and his neighbors- Not!

Since the illegals took over poured residential and now commercial poured concrete footings, NOTHING starts within spec, the last school i worked on the footings were 1- 2 inches low everywhere mostly and pinned with a total station out of square 2 to 4", I wouldn't know how to that with out pinning square first...:thumbsup:

At least you know you need to learn.

There are available trusses that are trimmable at both ends, but might require added blocking in some situations. "opencenter" brand?

I'd rather build on I am anal's work then follow I don't care.:whistling

What amazes me is that you never been taught just how precise your work needs to be, or when you are wasting time and money trying to "make a Swiss Watch"....

You don't need to put every bullet in the X ring when you are the machine gunner.

Just the fact the wood is still damp to the touch has any cutting to one part in two thousand as a silly exercise IMHO.

A McgrawHill Construction tolerances Book has +&- 1/4" for 10 to 100' linear measurements, thus your joists are "in" tolerance....

If all your framing is dead nut, you've taken too long... IMHO.

FYI : anything that you CAN'T cut needs to be measured BEFORE you sign for delivery in a prefect world......
 

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Just ignore the holier than thou crowd.

I think anyone on this site would be happy to have a guy that is researching and looking for answers on his own time.




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There's plenty of contractors and framers that would say the average framer would say it's okay. The fact you're trying to be better by looking for input makes you better than the "average" guys. Good job! By the way you can ask truss manufacturer to add an extra 2x4 block on one end that can be cut or adjusted if needed.

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If you purchased floor trussed similar to the pic with the 2x top ribbon, the 2x vertical that creates the pocket for the ribbon is 99% of the time superficial. Read the calcs. 1.75” bearing and that vertical is just to locate the ribbon and maintain plane.

So grab your planer and plane that 2x’s face 3/16”. Or 3/8” even. If the ribbon can be reduced to 1x, your in business. If not, tell that truss company to send you SP blocks at their expense and a credit for your install labor.


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If you have too meet a horizontal spec, order trusses 3/8" short and infill with shim material on the wavy ends.

Were the trusses damaged on delivery or during handling? Any crown flattened by over loading with entire lifts of materials on un sub-floored trusses?:eek:

left in a uncribbed pile where they fell off the roller bed truck for weeks?

Were the lifting slings use at the proper points? No four wheeling around on the teleboom forks, bouncing up and down like a carnival ride?:rolleyes:



The spread of the cell phone to nearly every person in the USA has some negative side effects, One being that many post cell phone era 'foremen' never truly cut the apron strings from their immediate supervisors...

And it allows the post of partially trained person where formerly they'd have to act in ignorance or wait for the next layer management to appear on their daily/weekly runs.

Also it occurs to me, how does the OPer get through the day installing 2 bys that only measure 1.5" wide actually.......
 
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It appears that this response from the finish carpenter crowd here do not know how framing works.

If I told you how many houses I have framed on 2-4" out of square foundations it would make you sick.
Anyone that takes the time to measure floor trusses that can't be cut needs to move on to another job. You are costing your boss too much money being that particular.
 

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Truss companies screw up, only takes a minute to measure, nothing wrong with wanting to do it right...........
 

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Capra Aegagrus
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It's completely natural and normal for someone getting started in the trades--who is conscientious--to want to make things as accurate as possible. It's only as we mature in the work that we begin to learn where it matters and where it's of relatively small importance.

I'd be much more critical of someone just starting out who assumes slop is an industry standard.
 

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It appears that this response from the finish carpenter crowd here do not know how framing works.

If I told you how many houses I have framed on 2-4" out of square foundations it would make you sick.
Anyone that takes the time to measure floor trusses that can't be cut needs to move on to another job. You are costing your boss too much money being that particular.
We may frame on out of square foundations, but our houses are always square.
 
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