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Discussion Starter #1
My dad just bought a new home with 1400sqft metal building/shop. Before moving in we want to insulate it (probably open cell spray foam). The building is 15-20 years old R-panel with exposed screws and original paint. I assume the washers on the screws are no longer waterproof.

How would you waterproof/paint the building before insulation?

My roofer suggested an elastomeric (but didn't give me a specific one). SW and BM stores have elastomeric for masonry but no mention of metal.

Should I just caulk every screw/joint with NP1 and spray with SW Duration or Emerald?

thanks
Everend
 

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Let me look up a product I recently used and I will get back to you.
Do you know for sure the screws are leaking or suspect they may leak?
 

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If the screws are leaking, it wouldn't be a big deal to replace them, 1400 sq foot building really isn't that many screws...

Is the paint actually coming off the panels?



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Various finishes and process' have trade offs. Pitch of roof plays a part in my choice of product.
Regardless first step is to power wash the roof thoroughly.
My preferred process is to prime the roof with SW Procryl metal primer and finish with SW Shercryl metal finish paint - 2 coats of finish always. This will provide you a long lasting finish with excellent sheen and color retention.

For a shallow pitch roof (12/2 ) or less I would use an elastomeric type coating. This because a shallow pitch roof is considered a flat roof and snow / ice and water pooling on the roof requires an elastomeric type coating to hold up.

For shallow pitch roofs prime with SW Uniflex Acrylic Rust Primer and there is a recommended elastomeric finish coat that goes with the Uniflex primer, I will be damned i can not think of its name.
There is also a product that goes with the Uniflex line for sealing around roof protrusions prior to priming and painting. Not sure i would want to do every screw head.
Frankly i like the idea of simply replacing all the screws too.

Products like Emerald and Duration are excellent paints but offer no rust inhibiting qualities and not suited to roofs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The exterior paint does rub off onto my fingers. This is in central Texas so we don't get ice/snow every year.
I don't know for sure it leaks, as I understand it foam insulation against leaking metal is a recipe for rust and mold. It needs paint anyway so I'm trying to be proactive and thorough.

When I say he just bought it, I mean we just got the keys this afternoon. I'm heading there in the morning to get my first close look.
When I called SW today, the local store referred me to the industrial store in Austin. I asked about the elastomeric, he said that was only for concrete.

I am leaning toward spot-treating any leaks vs full surface waterproofing.
 

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If the building isn't leaking, powerwash the interior and spray closed cell. Open cell intended to stay uncovered does not do well.
 

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There are several really good systems for exactly what you need, with detailed instructions on how to use their products. A couple I've had success with include Republic Powdered Metals and Kool Seal. Small building like that should be pretty easy.
 
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