Water heater in basement

24407 Views 27 Replies 21 Participants Last post by EricBrancard, Nov 6, 2015

robanderin

Discussion Starter · Aug 31, 2009

Hello,

I was hoping for a little help,I have a 50 yr. old house in california with the water heater in the basement(original location). A inspector told me I need 1. to raise it 18" off floor...theres no way I only have like 10" from top to floor joist. and 2. plumb the T&P to the outside.
I have the line 6" off floor not sure how to get outside..have deep sink on other side of basement that I guess I could run it to but its like 15' away and it would have to be run in the joists.

any help would be appriciated

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

The Coastal Craftsman

· #2 · Aug 31, 2009

robanderin said:
Hello,

I was hoping for a little help,I have a 50 yr. old house in california with the water heater in the basement(original location). A inspector told me I need 1. to raise it 18" off floor...theres no way I only have like 10" from top to floor joist. and 2. plumb the T&P to the outside.
I have the line 6" off floor not sure how to get outside..have deep sink on other side of basement that I guess I could run it to but its like 15' away and it would have to be run in the joists.

any help would be appriciated

Your best bet would be to get a plumber around and check that out. I have never heard of having to raise a hot water cylinder of the ground by that much if at all and your temp/pressure relief should really be piped to where it cant burn anyone if it's goes off. We used to pipe them through an external wall and use a return elbow and point the pipe back toward the wall so that if there was ever a issue you would see the water coming from it and no one would get burnt from heated water.

cyezza

· #3 · Aug 31, 2009

robanderin said:
Hello,

I was hoping for a little help,I have a 50 yr. old house in california with the water heater in the basement(original location). A inspector told me I need 1. to raise it 18" off floor...theres no way I only have like 10" from top to floor joist. and 2. plumb the T&P to the outside.
I have the line 6" off floor not sure how to get outside..have deep sink on other side of basement that I guess I could run it to but its like 15' away and it would have to be run in the joists.

any help would be appriciated

And what was the reason to raise it? When installed in garages they should be 18" off the floor because of potential gas fumes

thom

· #4 · Aug 31, 2009

To many things don't make sense.

What kind of inspector was this?
Why was the inspector there?
What else is going on in the basement?
When was the water heater installed?
Who installed the water heater?

Reactions: 1

mics_54

· #5 · Aug 31, 2009

I'm not a plumber or inspector but I have no idea why an inspector told you the WH had to be elevated unless you basement is a garage.
The book had this to say about the temp relief piping

2006 IRC P2803.6.1 Requirements for discharge pipe. The discharge piping serving a pressure-relief valve, temperature relief lve or combination valve shall:
1. Not be directly connected to the drainage system.
2. Discharge through an air gap located in the same room as the water heater.
3. Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve served and shall discharge full size to the air gap.
4. Serve a single relief device and shall not connect to piping serving any other relief device or equipment.
5. Discharge to the floor, to an indirect waste receptor or to the outdoors. Where discharging to the outdoors
in areas subject to freezing, discharge piping shall be first piped to an indirect waste receptor
through an air gap located in a conditioned area.
6. Discharge in a manner that does not cause personal injury or structural damage.
7. Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the building occupants.
8. Not be trapped.
9. Be installed to flow by gravity.
10. Not terminate more than 6 inches (152 mm) above
the floor or waste receptor.
11. Not have a threaded connection at the end of the piping.
12. Not have valves or tee fittings.
13. Be constructed of those materials listed in Section P2904.5 or materials tested, rated and approved for
such use in accordance with ASME A112.4.1

See less See more

J F

· #6 · Aug 31, 2009

I'd post the question here, lots of helpful guys (cough cough):

http://www.plumbingzone.com/f2/ :whistling

SewerRatz

· #7 · Aug 31, 2009

J F said:
I'd post the question here, lots of helpful guys(cough cough):

:whistling

Why start trouble J F?

mics_54

· #8 · Aug 31, 2009

Maybe I'm paranoid...but I sense that people are playing games on the forum(s)

JonM

· #9 · Aug 31, 2009

Notice all those rules but it says nothing about the discharge pipe being PVC..so it can snap at the when discharged and scald everyone nearby...

mics_54

· #10 · Aug 31, 2009 (Edited)

Notice all those rules but it says nothing about the discharge pipe being PVC..so it can snap at the when discharged and scald everyone nearby...

13. Be constructed of those materials listed in Section P2904.5 or materials tested, rated and approved for
such use in accordance with ASME A112.4.1

TABLE P2904.5
WATER DISTRIBUTION PIPE
MATERIAL ------------------------------------------------ STANDARD
Brass pipe ------------------------------------------------ ASTM B 43
Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) plastic pipe and tubing - ASTM D 2846; ASTM F 441; ASTM F 442; CSA B137.6
Copper or copper-alloy pipe -------------------------------- ASTM B 42; ASTM B 302
Copper or copper-alloy tubing (Type K, WK, L, WL, M or WM) -- ASTM B 75; ASTM B 88; ASTM B 251; ASTM B 447
Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) plastic tubing ---------------- ASTM F 877; CSA B137.5
Cross-linked polyethylene/aluminum/cross-linked polyethylene (PEX-AL-PEX) pipe - ASTM F 1281; CSACAN/CSA-B137.10
Cross-linked polyethylene/aluminum/high-density polyethylene (PEX-AL-HDPE) - ASTM F 1986
Galvanized steel pipe ---------------------------------------- ASTM A 53
Polybutylene (PB) plastic pipe and tubing --------------------- ASTM D 3309; CSA CAN3-B137.8
Polyethylene/aluminum/polyethylene (PE-AL-PE) composite pipe - ASTM F 1282
Polypropylene (PP) plastic pipe or tubing ----------------------- ASTM F 2389; CSA B137.11
Stainless steel (Type 304/304L) pipe -------------------------- ASTM A 312; ASTM A 778
Stainless steel (Type 316/316L) pipe -------------------------- ASTM A 312; ASTM A 778

PVC is not listed on the approved materials for this application.

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J F

· #11 · Aug 31, 2009

SewerRatz said:
Why start trouble J F?

Trouble? Surely you jest...the guys over at http://www.plumbingzone.com/f2/ are nothing but helpful, courteous, kind hearted souls. Very helpful bunch.

KillerToiletSpider

· #12 · Aug 31, 2009

J F said:
Trouble? Surely you jest...the guys over at http://www.plumbingzone.com/f2/ are nothing but helpful, courteous, kind hearted souls. Very helpful bunch.

Your judging an entire community on the actions of a few members?

Nice.

Reactions: 2

mics_54

· #13 · Aug 31, 2009

here we go again...this crap gets old.

J F

· #14 · Aug 31, 2009

KillerToiletSpider said:
Your judging an entire community on the actions of a few members?

Nice.

No, just the few.

SewerRatz

· #15 · Aug 31, 2009

J F said:
No, just the few.

Nice way to high jack a thread for your petty little fight.

Back to the OP concerns< I would call your local plumbing inspector and have him / her clarify what the code is for your water heater. Something just does not sound right.

Leadworker

· #16 · Sep 17, 2009

The inspector is totaly wrong or being a dick. The only reason a water heater should be 18" of the floor is if it's located in a garage or any place containing flammable liquids.

Azpipe

· #17 · Dec 28, 2010 (Edited)

robanderin said:
Hello,

I was hoping for a little help,I have a 50 yr. old house in california with the water heater in the basement(original location). A inspector told me I need 1. to raise it 18" off floor...theres no way I only have like 10" from top to floor joist. and 2. plumb the T&P to the outside.
I have the line 6" off floor not sure how to get outside..have deep sink on other side of basement that I guess I could run it to but its like 15' away and it would have to be run in the joists.

any help would be appriciated

Hopefully it's time to replace the water heater. I would want to relocate it to an above ground location. But if not, the issues can be corrected.

Is this is a gas fired water heater. It makes me think so because the 18 inches just happens to be the rule in areas where fumes can possibly build up like a garage. It does make sense to apply the same thinking in a basement. Or if there is a concern about water building up in the basement. I personally wouldn't want a fuel fired water heater under a living space. I just don't like the idea but I know it can be done, if done properly. If you don't have enough head room
then you have the wrong water heater for the application.

As far as the drain line goes, I guess drilling through the wall is out of the question. So I would secure the copper pipe to the wall or floor if there is a floor sink, and if I had to I'd install a sump and pump.
I would highly recommend having a Plumbing contractor take a look at it.

concretemasonry

· #18 · Dec 28, 2010

The P/T valve is not something to be pushed off and ignored.

The altitude record for a water heater with a frozen/jamed/obstructed valve in a one story house is about 250' after going through a the first floor and the roof structure. We had one in our neighborhood the was in a basement under a 3 story portion of the house that went over 150'. - No difference between gas and electric.

Even a home inspector should not operate or test a valve because of the life and property liability.

rex

· #19 · Dec 28, 2010

J F said:
No, just the few.

i agree lots of idiots over there...and i can say that cause i got banned from there for being a idiot!!! hahahahha

altho everything i said was the truth...puzzies

Rio

· #20 · Dec 28, 2010 (Edited)

As pointed out above ask the inspector to show you where in the code it says a water heater in a basement has to be 18" off the floor. That is for a gas water heater in a garage. If he can't cite the section but says he wants you to do it just because see if you can get a senior inspector to review and clarify. Good luck.

For the P&T use 3/4" copper and be sure as pointed out to run the last piece so it's pointing to the ground; maybe consider relocating the water heater to a better location. It could cause a big mess in the basement if it springs a leak.

It's not a bad idea also to use a plumber.

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

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