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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The plan was to replace a couple boards for a home prep-for-sale and call it a day, but I got stuck. My floor guy is swamped or I would have offered him the pleasure.

Floor is pre-finished oak, natural (eg. Bruce red oak, probably) w/ beveled edges, narrow plank. Edge water damage (blackening) from one potted plant near a window - several boards to make it look like a ring (but it's edge damage, not surface). Thought was to replace those boards, but the finish has yellowed way too much (looks like yellow honey now, except for where the furniture was) and the new boards are too red/dark since they match the original protected wood (eg. edges under the transition, register, etc.).

So how is this repair done, when new pre-finished boards look way darker and too different than the lighter-finished old stuff? I tried to sand it out on one board, thinking I could do a touch-up w/ golden oak, but the blackening is too deep. Any thoughts? ("Yeah, stick to your day job." :) )
 

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Paul
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The color difference is due to the exposure to uv light. The replacement planks will blend in time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The color difference is due to the exposure to uv light. The replacement planks will blend in time.
Ok, so that's the proper repair...with customer understanding the situation. Got it.

Is there an alternative "less permanent" repair, like some sort of stain-blocker, then stained resin or something to fill in? (I realize that's a hacky question, sorry.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sure, but I think their objective is to make the problem "go away/blend/whatever", not make the uv-damaged floors a new talking-point for the sale. Wish I had a few uv damaged boards to spare.

I recall my floor guy did something similar on an American Cherry floor, and the aggravation afterward wasn't worth it. His mistake wasn't setting the expectations beforehand. It was a pain.
 

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Hair Splitter
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Sure, but I think their objective is to make the problem "go away/blend/whatever", not make the uv-damaged floors a new talking-point for the sale. Wish I had a few uv damaged boards to spare.

I recall my floor guy did something similar on an American Cherry floor, and the aggravation afterward wasn't worth it. His mistake wasn't setting the expectations beforehand. It was a pain.
It's not really damage, I mean it is, but it's normal. Wood floors darken over time.

As long as they know, there shouldn't be any real issue.
 

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Ignoring the long term so you can get a match for right now, you can use oxalic acid or peroxide based wood bleach on the new bare wood to get it to a lighter shade, then stain to match. It will match until it doesn't....
 

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Thought for the future. If you run into this again and you want to try to rehab the existing wood in place, don't touch it with sand paper or any abrasives. Use either the oxalic acid or peroxide bleach, and put it right on the finished floor's affected spots. It will only penetrate to the wood through the same gaps in the finish, so it automatically limits the action. Then you can sand the finish off and complete any additional bleaching / blending.
 

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Ignoring the long term so you can get a match for right now, you can use oxalic acid or peroxide based wood bleach on the new bare wood to get it to a lighter shade, then stain to match. It will match until it doesn't....

That's exactly how I'd handle it. Take unfinished oak & stain till ya get a color match, then finish with a clear that matches the sheen.

BTW, bruce flooring is notorious for sun fading in front of doors & windows. We refinish quite a few older bruce floors because of this.
 
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