Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I remember a while back some guys were going on about good water based paints for cabinets and i cant remember what the brand of paint was. I need to spray it with my HVLP in a home so need something thats good quality but wont stink the place up. I remember it had something like p5000 or 6000 in the name.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
Target EM6000 is the one TBFGhost was mentioning. He may have said he started spraying their EM8000 Conversion Varnish.

Tom uses Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua Plus a lot. That's what I'm spraying on my built in cabinet job.

Also Sherwin Williams Pro Classic was mentioned by a lot of people on Spencer's thread a while back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Target EM6000 is the one TBFGhost was mentioning. He may have said he started spraying their EM8000 Conversion Varnish.

Tom uses Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua Plus a lot. That's what I'm spraying on my built in cabinet job.

Also Sherwin Williams Pro Classic was mentioned by a lot of people on Spencer's thread a while back.

That's the ones. Cheers man. hows it going with the Kem aqua on your job?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
That's the ones. Cheers man. hows it going with the Kem aqua on your job?
Picking it up tomorrow. I've got all my boxes built, last one is clamping right now. Have 7 face frames to assemble and attach to the boxes.

Might start spraying near the end of the week. Have some other projects going now as well and I'm needed on site tomorrow.

I'm just trying not to be worried about it. Lol. I'm hoping it goes well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,076 Posts
BC, the Target Coatings link Posted in the other thread.

http://finishingzone.com

I really like the SW KA+.

Tom
Tom, any advice or comments about what to expect from spraying the SW KA+? I've become spoiled by the easy sprayability and quick drying and recoat times of conversion varnish, but I do have some projects coming up where CV is less likely to make sense.

Does it tighten up the way a CV finish does? How many coats typically? Go for several thin coats, or hose it on?

- Bob

Edit: Fuji HVLP, #3 or 4 tip?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,547 Posts
I recently use a BM water-based paint for cabinets. Forget the name, but nice hard, smooth finish....and I brushed them. Not much smell, but needs a few days to harden up really well. They cautioned me that brushes needed to be washed asap - no wrapping them in plastic or anything like that to continue later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,374 Posts
Tom, any advice or comments about what to expect from spraying the SW KA+? I've become spoiled by the easy sprayability and quick drying and recoat times of conversion varnish, but I do have some projects coming up where CV is less likely to make sense.

Does it tighten up the way a CV finish does? How many coats typically? Go for several thin coats, or hose it on?

- Bob

Edit: Fuji HVLP, #3 or 4 tip?
#4 nozzle and air cap or #4 with a #3 air cap. I've also shot through a #4 with a #5 air cap. #5 nozzle does not break the fluid up as well, the air cap has a harder time fanning it out.

It does tighten up well, sets to sand in about 15 minutes. Sanding dust melts back in with the next coat (I use an ETS 125 sander hooked to a CT with 320 Granat paper for between coats sanding, minimal dust).

2

3.5 to 4 mils thick. If you spray on the flat you can go up to 5.5 to 6 mils.

EDIT: Make sure you stir the KA by lifting from the bottom up, the flatteners (silica) tend to settle to the bottom of the container. I store mine upside down.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,374 Posts
I recently use a BM water-based paint for cabinets. Forget the name, but nice hard, smooth finish....and I brushed them. Not much smell, but needs a few days to harden up really well. They cautioned me that brushes needed to be washed asap - no wrapping them in plastic or anything like that to continue later.
Was it BM Advance? I've heard good things about it.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,499 Posts
I've got a project coming up where I'll have a whole (small) house of paint grade Shaker style cabinets. Each of the three painters from whom I've tried to get proposals think I'm nuts when I say I want to remove all the hardware (Euro hinges and drawer guides) before painting. I've even offered to disassemble everything for them and they all balk at that saying they aren't set up to handle all those pieces. I don't want a spec of paint on the hinges or drawer guides. Is that unreasonable?

(Not trying to hijack this thread - just made me think of my situation.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
551 Posts
I just used BM advance. Satin finish. Used with a 211 tip with my airless. I'm very pleased with the product and overall finish it gave.
In contrast , I brushed some bathroom trim with it, and it was a nightmare to apply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
I've got a project coming up where I'll have a whole (small) house of paint grade Shaker style cabinets. Each of the three painters from whom I've tried to get proposals think I'm nuts when I say I want to remove all the hardware (Euro hinges and drawer guides) before painting. I've even offered to disassemble everything for them and they all balk at that saying they aren't set up to handle all those pieces. I don't want a spec of paint on the hinges or drawer guides. Is that unreasonable?

(Not trying to hijack this thread - just made me think of my situation.)
We always remove the doors from the cabinets when re-painting a kitchen or any other cabinets. We also remove the hinges from the doors.

Typically we're not painting the drawer boxes just the drawer fronts so the slides are not an issue.

As far as on the cabinet face frame, I believe we usually paint around them but neatly and get no paint on them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
#4 nozzle and air cap or #4 with a #3 air cap. I've also shot through a #4 with a #5 air cap. #5 nozzle does not break the fluid up as well, the air cap has a harder time fanning it out.

It does tighten up well, sets to sand in about 15 minutes. Sanding dust melts back in with the next coat (I use an ETS 125 sander hooked to a CT with 320 Granat paper for between coats sanding, minimal dust).

2

3.5 to 4 mils thick. If you spray on the flat you can go up to 5.5 to 6 mils.

EDIT: Make sure you stir the KA by lifting from the bottom up, the flatteners (silica) tend to settle to the bottom of the container. I store mine upside down.

Tom
So it says on their site under the drying times, 8 - 12 hours to pack. Does that mean it's ready for transport/fully cured at that point? Never used anything other than latex paint which is like 30 days to fully cure...

Also in looking at the specs, I should be able to spray the 4 cabinets that are the same color, and then by the time I'm done, start with the second coat? I had thought I'd have to switch colors multiple times and have lots of drying time cause of my familiarity with latex paint.

You always sand between coats as mentioned above?

I've assumed I would need to cause I assume my first attempt will be less than perfect...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,374 Posts
I've got a project coming up where I'll have a whole (small) house of paint grade Shaker style cabinets. Each of the three painters from whom I've tried to get proposals think I'm nuts when I say I want to remove all the hardware (Euro hinges and drawer guides) before painting. I've even offered to disassemble everything for them and they all balk at that saying they aren't set up to handle all those pieces. I don't want a spec of paint on the hinges or drawer guides. Is that unreasonable?

(Not trying to hijack this thread - just made me think of my situation.)
Not unreasonable. I would not do it any other way.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,374 Posts
So it says on their site under the drying times, 8 - 12 hours to pack. Does that mean it's ready for transport/fully cured at that point? Never used anything other than latex paint which is like 30 days to fully cure...

Also in looking at the specs, I should be able to spray the 4 cabinets that are the same color, and then by the time I'm done, start with the second coat? I had thought I'd have to switch colors multiple times and have lots of drying time cause of my familiarity with latex paint.

You always sand between coats as mentioned above?

I've assumed I would need to cause I assume my first attempt will be less than perfect...
Yes, you can pack the products in about 10 hours without them blocking (finish sticking/transferring). Place a 1/2 mil sheet of plastic between the pieces to wrap and transport. Use plastic not painting film, the lettering on painting film can transfer to the product.

You should be ready for the second coat in no more than 30 minutes. That is in the worst drying conditions I've ever encountered.

Old habits dye (sic intended) hard. I'm so used to sanding between coats I just can't bring myself to give it up. This would be the perfect opportunity to purchase an ETS 125 sander. You could always stop by to borrow one of mine, just make sure you bring it back when your done with this project.

When you bring the sander back you can help when I spray the 120 gallons of KA+ BRE, I just ordered, consider the time a rental payment for the sander.

Tom
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top