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Discussion Starter #1
I'm cutting back a conventional framed wall that butts to a chimney and replacing that section with a metal stud / Type X wall section. Originally I'd thought I'd just do the cut back and build a metal stud wall around the chimney. This is a so-so approach, since I'll get down below 30 inches in one travel area (not a required egress). The benefit of building around the chimney is the chimney and framing can move separately.

Now I'm thinking I may be better off just cutting the 6 inches off the wall, and replacing it with a 6" length of metal stud wall. Any ideas how I get the wall - chimney joint fire rated and allow the chimney to move relative to the wall?
 

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I'm cutting back a conventional framed wall that butts to a chimney and replacing that section with a metal stud / Type X wall section. Originally I'd thought I'd just do the cut back and build a metal stud wall around the chimney. This is a so-so approach, since I'll get down below 30 inches in one travel area (not a required egress). The benefit of building around the chimney is the chimney and framing can move separately.

Now I'm thinking I may be better off just cutting the 6 inches off the wall, and replacing it with a 6" length of metal stud wall. Any ideas how I get the wall - chimney joint fire rated and allow the chimney to move relative to the wall?
can you please explain this a little better. maybe include a pic
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cut back and butt the wall, pack with rock wool and caulk with 3M FB150+. I don't need a fire rating on this wall, but it's only a couple extra dollars and no extra time. For a balloon framed building, little things like that are a no brainer to me.
 

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Cut back and butt the wall, pack with rock wool and caulk with 3M FB150+. I don't need a fire rating on this wall, but it's only a couple extra dollars and no extra time. For a balloon framed building, little things like that are a no brainer to me.
Have you tried the fire block expanding foam yet? Seems to be less prone to cracking than the FB150.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I usually use firebloc expanding foam for hidden areas. I'm not sure either is not going to develop a crack / pull away, so I'm planning on a likely redo in a few years, if it comes to that. It all depends how much the wall moves relative to the chimney - who knows what that is... In the event of a redo, getting the caulk off clean should be the easiest - at least that's the theory.

I probably should have sealed the brick before all this, just in case, but that would really change the look. Better to leave it, and deal with it later if I have to.
 
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