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Absolutely!
Problem is most people don't know what real oak looks like. Never mind that most carpenters don't know either.

Oak was given a bad name in the eighties.
I absolutely hate that 80's oak look. That said, we do at least one piece a month in quartered white oak and its definitely a different ballgame from the dreaded 80's golden stained flat oak. Entertainment centers, islands and vanities are the most common for us. Not too many full quartered oak kitchens, but those too, here and there.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Started this thread a while ago and am finally close to putting up some cool stuff at my place.

I am trying to configure what I need/want exactly. So they don't conflict with each other, would 1/2" wainscotting look ok? Or does it need more depth to look right?
 
aaron_a said:
I don't like to go any deeper than 1/2 inch, otherwise it starts to look to you just slapped some stock lumber on the wall.
I did my dining room with 1/2" mdf when we first moved in, I would change a couple different things on my design, but it worked well.
 

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I did my dining room with 1/2" mdf when we first moved in, I would change a couple different things on my design, but it worked well.
That looks nice.

I was assuming he was talking about the reveal from the rails and stiles to the panels, since is doing a square edge craftsman style.

This is one I did as part of a cabinet job, I built it pretty much the same way I built the doors, but with some pocket screws for good measure

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That's 1/2 maple rabbeted into 3/4. With a 3/16 reveal.

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Building it like that was probably overkill, but it will allow for movement and hide it, plus I was already set up for doing the doors, so i just did the paning then.
 
As soon as you put the cap on it the depth disappears. Only problems that you have are casings that are thinner. I did wainscot in my room a long time ago and replace all the casings in the room so they matched.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Ok. So would it look odd if I used 3/4" casing ( flat, square, smooth) and allow that casing to be the end style of the cotting?
 
No, that would like very custom.
 
I was working up a bid for someone. She had 11/16 colonial throughout the house. I proposed to run the cap through the trim, cut off the bottom portion under the cap and replace the bottom leg of casing with a wainscot stile. The other solution I came up with was to install back band on all casings.
 
How do you back band colonial casing?
 
We're in the midst of a mission style wainscoting in an entry.

Built the frame with pocket screws and rabbit 1/8" or 3/6 Masonite into the panels.

Try and incorporate the casing around the doors into the rail and stile theme.

We have a couple of details that are going to be interesting to make look right.

Front door has 2 steps up into the entry, and the entry also houses an open-sided staircase to the 2nd floor.

The designer want the Scot height to be 5'6" , which the room can visually carry with a high ceiling height above the two step.

( a nod to Cali Mike )

If you can wait until Tuesday, we should have a mock up that I can post for the designer to OK, on Friday.

5/4 cap, and skip the baseboard on the floor.

Let the stiles die into a 1x8, and shoe it.

Just my two cents.
 
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