I really like this but would want a taller base detail.

Here I go again..... Leo is right. Darn, a little piece of me dies every time. Not sure how many more I have in me.

The picture you show would be made with basic shaker door cutters in the tradition way. The panel would be back cut so it's back face would make contact with the wall. Just make one big door, basically.

But there are plenty of ways to achieve the same look without the shaper set up needed for that.

One way is to make you frame normally but keep any pocket screws at least 1/2" from the edges. Then rabbet the back of each opening so you can lay your panel in the recess.

Or if you were ok with 1/2" or so step down to the panel, you could just apply a plywood back to a 1/2" thick frame. Fast and easy with minimal tooling.

We all do the best we can with the tooling we have. When you can't take it anymore, you buy the tool that opens the path to the method you want. After you do your due diligence to justify it, of course.

 

I normally use either no base or a 5 1/4" standard tall base both with shoe. If using a base then I always use a plinth block at the bottom of the casing for the base to die into. 3/4" stiles and 3/4" base is deeper than most normal casings easily available.

 

Solid cherry rails and styles, with cherry veneer panels. I believe these would be called library panels.

Tom

 

I call it awesome!:thumbup:

 

 

To each their own, but there is really something beautiful about an oak arts and crafts/craftsman style home.

Absolutely!
Problem is most people don't know what real oak looks like. Never mind that most carpenters don't know either.

Oak was given a bad name in the eighties.

 

I absolutely hate that 80's oak look. That said, we do at least one piece a month in quartered white oak and its definitely a different ballgame from the dreaded 80's golden stained flat oak. Entertainment centers, islands and vanities are the most common for us. Not too many full quartered oak kitchens, but those too, here and there.

 

One of my favorite woods is quater sawn white oak. No dye or stain, just an amber finish. (I know the one I first posted is plain sawn red, that's what the cabs were)

Tom

 

Either get the book, "who stole my cheese" or do picture frames. :whistling

 

Oak looks GREAT as waincotting....

QUARTER/RIFT sawn oak looks great as wainscot!

 

Started this thread a while ago and am finally close to putting up some cool stuff at my place.

I am trying to configure what I need/want exactly. So they don't conflict with each other, would 1/2" wainscotting look ok? Or does it need more depth to look right?

 

I don't like to go any deeper than 1/2 inch, otherwise it starts to look to you just slapped some stock lumber on the wall.

 

I don't like to go any deeper than 1/2 inch, otherwise it starts to look to you just slapped some stock lumber on the wall.

I did my dining room with 1/2" mdf when we first moved in, I would change a couple different things on my design, but it worked well.

 

That looks nice.

I was assuming he was talking about the reveal from the rails and stiles to the panels, since is doing a square edge craftsman style.

This is one I did as part of a cabinet job, I built it pretty much the same way I built the doors, but with some pocket screws for good measure

That's 1/2 maple rabbeted into 3/4. With a 3/16 reveal.

Building it like that was probably overkill, but it will allow for movement and hide it, plus I was already set up for doing the doors, so i just did the paning then.

 

Ah yes, 1/2" max recess. Nice work btw.

 

As soon as you put the cap on it the depth disappears. Only problems that you have are casings that are thinner. I did wainscot in my room a long time ago and replace all the casings in the room so they matched.

 

Ok. So would it look odd if I used 3/4" casing ( flat, square, smooth) and allow that casing to be the end style of the cotting?

 

No, that would like very custom.

 

I was working up a bid for someone. She had 11/16 colonial throughout the house. I proposed to run the cap through the trim, cut off the bottom portion under the cap and replace the bottom leg of casing with a wainscot stile. The other solution I came up with was to install back band on all casings.

 

I think must have ran thousands of feet of recessed paneling and never used anything smaller than 3/4" thick stock. Interesting concept using 1/2". What do you do for inlay moldings?

 

Ok. So would it look odd if I used 3/4" casing ( flat, square, smooth) and allow that casing to be the end style of the cotting?

I've also butted the casing with the wains, eased both edges and left a emphasized joint there. But with that design I emphasized all the joints.

 

Use back band. It's essential

 

How do you back band colonial casing?

 

They make a simple back band that works well


Garden State 8313 is what I typically use. Adds some depth and a nice shadow line.

http://www.gardenstatelumber.com/mouldings/category/back-band

 

You rip it out and put real molding up. I did it once you have to rip back band down. I'll see if I can find a picture

 

How do you back band colonial casing?

You actually just add a ripped piece of stock to the side of the casing and create another 3/4" wide flat profile to the depth you need.

It's not a true back band, but applied in a similar fashion.

 

We're in the midst of a mission style wainscoting in an entry.

Built the frame with pocket screws and rabbit 1/8" or 3/6 Masonite into the panels.

Try and incorporate the casing around the doors into the rail and stile theme.

We have a couple of details that are going to be interesting to make look right.

Front door has 2 steps up into the entry, and the entry also houses an open-sided staircase to the 2nd floor.

The designer want the Scot height to be 5'6" , which the room can visually carry with a high ceiling height above the two step.

( a nod to Cali Mike )

If you can wait until Tuesday, we should have a mock up that I can post for the designer to OK, on Friday.

5/4 cap, and skip the baseboard on the floor.

Let the stiles die into a 1x8, and shoe it.

Just my two cents.

 

Sorry this took longer than originally posted.

Mold problem in the basement we were working in. Kicked everything back a couple days while we dealt with it.

Anyways:

This is the mock up I was describing.

It's in an entry, with 9' ceilings. The top cap is 1" super-refined MDF, at 5'6".

The top rail is 4 1/4" with an applied 3/4 scotia, the bottom rail/base is 1x6. The stiles are 1x4, which make up the casing around the doors.

No bed mold, Masonite to be rabbeted from the back.

Will post more in a week or so, after the doors arrive.

Hope this helps J.

 

Sorry this took longer than originally posted.

Mold problem in the basement we were working in. Kicked everything back a couple days while we dealt with it.

Anyways:



View attachment 116146



View attachment 116148

This is the mock up I was describing.

It's in an entry, with 9' ceilings. The top cap is 1" super-refined MDF, at 5'6".

The top rail is 4 1/4" with an applied 3/4 scotia, the bottom rail/base is 1x6. The stiles are 1x4, which make up the casing around the doors.

No bed mold, Masonite to be rabbeted from the back.

Will post more in a week or so, after the doors arrive.

Hope this helps J.

Thanks! :thumbsup:

This is the look I am shooting for. Mine will not be as tall but same basic principal. Pretty excited to be doing this! I have mentioned it over and over that this type of carpentry is not the norm around here so I figured what better place to do this stuff than my own home.

Still a while away but I will post some photos when I get started.

I appreciate all the advice and encourage others to post more on the subject. I could stare at wainscoting for hours....and literally have.:laughing:

 

Will post pics in about a week or so after the doors come in.

We just got the green light from the designer today, after mock up.

We have a few weird details to work out in some areas, but we're good to go.

If you have any questions about specific transitions, I would be glad to give any input.

BTW:

These are the new doors.

 

Will post pics in about a week or so after the doors come in.

We just got the green light from the designer today, after mock up.

We have a few weird details to work out in some areas, but we're good to go.

If you have any questions about specific transitions, I would be glad to give any input.

BTW:

View attachment 116151

These are the new doors.

WOW! Those are the doors I want too!:laughing: Small world.

I am starting in one room and working from one end of the house to the other. So one or two things at a time. I ordered a 6 panel and regretted it after. I said oh well. The lumber yard called and said it was in.

I went to pick it up a day later and could not find it. It was billed to my account but it was no where to be found. So I got my monthly bill and there it was on paper. I went back to the yard and looked again, nothing. I told the manager that I searched a couple times for the door and nothing had my account number on there let alone any door that was anything like what I ordered. So....they think someone sold it to someone else. :laughing:

In the end it turned out okay because I want the 3 panel Tennon has pictured. I am still not sure with all the terminology but, I believe I am gong for the Craftsman look. Simple details, straight lines, etc.

Very cool Tennon!:thumbsup: