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we installed some siding and it came out beautifully. however, the home owner is a prick. they have about a 4 foot foundation going around the home so we started the siding just above where the sheathing starts. they origially had aluminum siding up which we tore off. we put up the starter strip at the bottom edge of the sheathing and now the home owner claims the siding does'nt go down far enough to where it covers some imperfections in the foundation which the aluminum did.we went down as far as we could with the starter. any reson why the aluminum hung down further than the vinyl?
its a shame because the job really came out nicely and this prick who i would love to give a beating too,is being irrational.
 

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No siding installer here exept for my own which I still need to finish. I am assuming aluminum siding starter strip is similar to siding ss. If so, maybe whoever installed the aluminum aligned the ss different and let it hang further down from the sheathing?
There are places on my house where the starter strip had to hang low in order to keep the siding lined up.
 

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KemoSabe
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won't hanging a starter too low cause structural instability to the siding?
I never install vinyl without allowing the starter to cover the block by at least 3/4". It's the same rule that applies to flashing. If you don't lap onto the foundation wall, you are inviting wind driven rain to roll across the block and into the building envelope.:thumbsup:
 

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back in the day you could lock the first course of aluminum into the backer board,this is what may have been done so the panel could be dropped down past what most starters that were available at the time were able to do

now you can get steel starters up to about 5 or 6'' wide that are pretty heavy duty

but yes the further the nails are away from the bottom of the starter the more ''wiggly'' it is
 

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enforcer
is there an exposed paint line on the foundaton or is the stucco missing?

maybe the foundation can be prettied up so its acceptable

other than telling the homeowner to live with it,i don't know what to tell you
 

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I generally drop my starter 3'4" below the sheathing just to hide the bottom plate line.
As Tom said there are wider starters(remodeling starters) that can be used when it is necessary to gain more drop.
As long as you "float" the nails in the starter,there should not be any waviness.

The only thing that you may possibly do now is add a Z-flashing to the bottom of the siding.
Get some coil to match siding color.
Bend a 1" (or more) lip(I usually hem this bend) to cover the foundation,and bring it out(over the bottom of the sheathing) enough to slip behind the starter.Pin it to the bottom of the sheathing.
Keep the exposure in the front consistent and parallel to the bottom of the siding.

It's a real PITA if the measurement between the sheathing and foundation doesn't stay consistent.
If this is the case,I'd bend it more like you would a regular roof flashing,(angled instead of a 90* bend)but with the extra bend to slip behind the starter.
Then there will be a little give to make up for any differences in the two planes.
If you keep the bottom lip underbent,it should hug the foundation better.

Sometimes its easier to do than explain.
You may have to read this over a couple of times to understand what I'm trying to describe.

Good luck!
 

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I've seen a lot of old aluminum put on without a starter strip. Also seen them use cedar shakes for starter in places where they needed to drop down more than half the width of the panel.
I always capped the bottom of the old siding and foam. I could drop my cap down as much as a wanted too then either screw starter onto it or build the starter right in the cap.
 

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I think what Paulie was alluding to,is to attach a band of aluminum below the first course of siding.
You could still do it by fastening a 1x4 around the foundation,making a "c" cap with a flange on the top to slip up and under the starter. Bit of sealer to hold it to the 1x4 and a few strategically placed nails.
If the house has accent colors in the fascia,rake and windows you could match that and it may even look better.
 

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KemoSabe
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When we do a water table and barge board detail, we set the barge with an L flashing on top, leaving out the water table to leave room to lock the siding into the starter strip. After the siding is installed we set the water table on top of the L to finish the installation. The barge is set with a 5 degree bevel to pitch the water out. May be an option to get you out of a jam. The flashing can be slipped behind the starter, set the barge board, set the flashing tight to the top of the barge, then install the water table.
 

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KemoSabe
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Hey Lone, who tore that single off on the last picture? :eek:
That is actually a scupper drain for the waterproof balcony behind that railing. We do a lot of these decks with knee walls and pent roofs. I like to do floor drains and scuppers as a back-up in case of a clogged drain pipe. The floors are either a fiberglass mat and resin process or a sprayed on poly urea/polyurethane. (basically the same as a sprayed on bedliner):thumbsup:
 

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I've seen fiberglass decks going down for the last 20+ years. If done correctly and maintained properly, they'll last a good long time. Hell, boat hulls are made with a very similar process, can't be all bad.:laughing: The poly decks only took off around here in the last 6 years or so. They seem to be very tough. The guy who applied ours did bedliners as well and they have held up well. The key to sucess is getting the plywood sealed before it gets weather and proper ventilation from the underside. We have used both for shower pans and laundry closet pans with good results as well.:thumbsup:
 
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