[oldfrt]

First time for this situation.

Have any of the window installers faced this yet?

I have to install new vinyl repalcement units in 20yr old Andersen DH W/vinyl exteriors frames.
There are no visible stops,just the old vinyl tracks in the Andersens.
Is it just a mater of adding the stops,and what's the best way to get accurate measurements?

And then there is the matter ofwrapping on the exterior with the old vinyl exterior still in place.

The Ho wants to match to other vinyl replacements already done so new inserts are out of the question.

 

[oldfrt]

Anybody?

Patrick?

 

[Patrick]

Yea we've done it, not exactly the best situation. just make ABSOLUTELY SURE that the old frame is NOT rotted under the permashield cladding

measure from inside jamb to inside jamb and sill to top jamb

Cut the cords, and there are three screws on each side

remove all the crap, install the window like normal

You gotta make stops for the inside (VERY SMALL ONES) OR measure your windows close enough and caulk the gap.

Take a look at the inside of all the windows and MAKE SURE that none of the interior casing hangs over the jamb preventing you from sliding the new window in

Wrap the outside and just bust your nails right through the cladding.
If it is vinyl sided I suggest wrapping your trim around the J so that you have a wider trim cause the Andersen frames are very narrow and hard to wrap.

Overall, I would prefer to use new construction windows in this situation. I just looked at some today and recommended we do just that. However we have done plenty of replacements. Just be careful because I bet some of them are rotted under the vinyl clad

PS Not sure what you are using for replacement windows, but we are now distributing vinyl windows, and we are VERY competitive with who I am pretty sure you are using and can give you a lot more window for a lot less $$

 

[oldfrt]

I'll check for the rot.
Trimming may be put off,as I'll be doing the siding in the spring,so I'll definately go with the new construction units if there is rot.

The HO has already picked the Harveys since they match other units they have done alreeady,but I'll keep your units in mind.

Send me some info.

 

[Patrick]

I'll check for the rot.
Trimming may be put off,as I'll be doing the siding in the spring,so I'll definately go with the new construction units if there is rot.

The HO has already picked the Harveys since they match other units they have done alreeady,but I'll keep your units in mind.

Send me some info.

A Harvey new construction window ordered without exterior trim, just a L fin, installed, and then a 2x3 around it and a fake sill, wrapped with a aluminum will look JUST like the other replacement windows in an old frame. We just did a house like this last week, had old Andersens in the main house and 200 series in a 10 year old addition. We did replacements in the main house and NC on the addition and just wrapped them. cant tell them apart even though some of the windows are right next to each other.

 

[Jake Stevens]

I smell gravy. We do tons of Andersen replacements. We find them the easiest windows that we do. On the inside we use a 1/2" cove molding and on the outside if they want new trim we use a filler on the side of the window frame to make the narrow line wider, add another board on top of that and cover with coil. That way the board that we put on covers the old J-channel and gives the whole job a clean new look.

 

[shoemaker]

I smell gravy. We do tons of Andersen replacements.

Yup "gravy"
Funny how all my guys complain they don't get enough for steel casements(even though I pay more)but never say they're making too much for Anderson DH removal.
"Good with the bad." At least that's what I used to tell myself.

 

[Patrick]

I smell gravy. We do tons of Andersen replacements. We find them the easiest windows that we do. On the inside we use a 1/2" cove molding and on the outside if they want new trim we use a filler on the side of the window frame to make the narrow line wider, add another board on top of that and cover with coil. That way the board that we put on covers the old J-channel and gives the whole job a clean new look.

They are easy Jake theres only two problems

A lot of times the interior trim hangs over the jambs for whatever reason and you cant get the windows in from the inside.

The other problem is the 200 series are notorious for rotting inside because the edges are missing cladding so often they are soaking wet inside, and you just installed a really nice window into a piece of **** frame

 

[oldfrt]

Gravy Huh!

Glad to hear that.
All I need to do now is get the sighnature on the dotted line before the specilal rates for the free inserts goes away.

 

[Patrick]

Gravy Huh!

Glad to hear that.
All I need to do now is get the sighnature on the dotted line before the specilal rates for the free inserts goes away.

lol You better hurry up before I come in and sell the job Jakes in Maine, Im just around the corner!

 

[shoemaker]

They are easy Jake theres only two problems

A lot of times the interior trim hangs over the jambs for whatever reason and you cant get the windows in from the inside.

The other problem is the 200 series are notorious for rotting inside because the edges are missing cladding so often they are soaking wet inside, and you just installed a really nice window into a piece of **** frame

Use 4" screws to get through the existing frames and into the jack studs of the home and you're all set
Ok Ok I kid...sorta.I've seen worse.

 

[grob62]

I LOVE replacing old Andersen Permashield DHs. I order my replacements only 3/8" smaller than the opening because of the smaller outside stops. 1/2 " thickness on the inside stops. If it's in brick its an easy L bend picture frame cap. 10 mins. Like Jake said.......GRAVY. :clap::clap::clap:

On a goood day we can set and cap and stop about 25 of these. BOO YA:thumbup: