Snap lines and check your layout occasionally. Pull the long line across the living room, then pull a reference line off of that through the back hall.

 

Shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure you don't end up with slivers on any of the parallel walls. At least there aren't any rooms you have to install backwards!!

 

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for transitions. Snaps lines as stated above. I've installed it backwards with no problems. I'm not crazy about Lifeproof I prefer locking ends.

 

Great help all. Thank you. Are there some brands that you guys like or avoid? Usually I'm doing 1 room at a time and the customer supplies the flooring and the brands have been across the board.

 

I avoid transition strips whenever possible. You shouldn't need any there.

I've had good results using LIfeproof. While its drop lock ends may be a tad less bulletproof than driven ends, they make installation much easier. And it's thicker than many other brands, which helps bridge minor irregularities in subflooring. All brands have their pros and cons; none of them are great.

Tip that can save you grief: Forget about using those crappy plastic shims to get your 1/4" spacing from the wall. They always move in one way or another.

Instead, start your flooring with the second row from the wall. Where the first row will be, screw scraps down to the subfloor to drive everything against. When you're done with the rest of the room(s), remove the scraps and install that first row in their place.

 

Instead, start your flooring with the second row from the wall. Where the first row will be, screw scraps down to the subfloor to drive everything against. When you're done with the rest of the room(s), remove the scraps and install that first row in their place.

I just tried that on the last floor I did. Works awesome.


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We don't do transitions unless there is a height difference. As others have said snap lines and check them as you go. We usually try to start with the longest straight run and work from there. Like Avenge said we have installed it backward without any issues.

 

No need for transition strips.
Against most advice so far, I would start in the corner of the two areas marked hallways and work my way out into the largest room.

 

Could even use a few Tapcons to hold down a 1x4, maybe?

I did a floor on my daughter's slab floor a couple weeks ago. The shims can be a pain, but I used some blue tape to help them stay in place. Worked ok.

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I actually haven't tried the 1x or 2x spacer method, but I'm thinking tapcons would be overkill. Problem with the 1/4" plastic shims is that they want to flip under the bottom edge of the drywall. Any 1x or 2x more than a couple of inches wide wouldn't have that problem.

 

Just hot glue the shim in place so it won't jump around,, I hate jumpy shims.

 

I would also work off the long wall. You can lay a 1x anything along the long living room wall and start clicking. It's self squaring so after a couple of feet will in you can see. Then remove the 1x and slide it back in place put shims where needed.
It's way easier to run through the same direction but that little perpendicular hallway would bother me. It should change direction and miter on the back connection off the kitchen.

 

Shims are especially worthless if the base was removed and you now have a gap between subfloor and drywall.

 

I usually just pop a line and go. Never have used shims or spacers.

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How do you maintain the required spacing without shimming?

 

I'll put the full boxes of floor on top of the first three rows, it's usually enough to hold it. Out reference marks in case it moves

Adjust it if needed with a sledge or flat-bar.

 

Yes the gap between the sub floor and drywall is not shim friendly, I use it as my gap when I can. A couple of prices of scrap floor works well against the wall too.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions on this. The flooring all went in well and I was able to get everything to connect up with out much issue.

As for spacers, I ended up using these and they worked surprisingly well. LINK

 

Thanks for all the suggestions on this. The flooring all went in well and I was able to get everything to connect up with out much issue.

As for spacers, I ended up using these and they worked surprisingly well. LINK

Got a pic? We love pics.

 

Vinyl plank flooring is a fantastic choice. Regarding transition strips, it largely depends on the layout. If you're dealing with shorter runs and no significant transitions, you might be able to skip them. When navigating hallways, ensure proper alignment by taking your time during the installation, using spacers, and double-checking measurements. Vinyl flooring is forgiving, so you have some flexibility. Good luck with your project, and here's to a seamless and stunning first floor!