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Discussion Starter #1
I've done a ton of vinyl but it's all been horizontal, I'm doing a small amount of vertical on this job and I would like some info. The GP site doesn't show much detail. The J channel on the bottom, I drilled a bunch of holes in it so the water would run out of it (no other way for it to get out). Also on the tall gable they show a "H" channel for stacking, problem is they don't sell it in the color I need (Hampton Red).
If any of you have done B&B vinyl, what is to say you can't lap it just like horizontal, I am thinking a couple of quick cuts so it can lap just like horizontal. The B&B only comes in 10' lengths.
Side note, the only place I have to do that would require this is on the back and won't be seen, it's 12 wide and about 16 tall (shed type gable).
thanks for any insight,
dave
 

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just did board and batten recently, Instead of a jay on the bottom I used a drip edge, you can buy it or bend it like I did, and I screwed the b and b directly to it. All other fasteners were loose to allow expansion. As for over lapping, I can't imagine any way would look good as you'll be looking up at the gap. Maybe bend an H out of matching aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
WD thanks for the reply. If I went with the formed H how would water get out of it? I don't like the idea of water sitting in a channel. I thought about looking up at the lap but hey, it's vinyl siding! LOL Aside from that, the rest of the house has T-111 with 4" spacing and looks like crap with it being bowed, aluminum z flashing and all not a pretty sight.
 

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OneAboveAll
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Diffently bend some metal that has a upper nail flange and is at least a ½ wider then the width of the J-channel your using, still drill your holes on the J on your upper trim and caulk the J on your lower trim! A 3" face on your trim looks real nice and brings a nice actscent to your work!
Hope this helps you out!
 

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I have used this flashing detail on the bottom of vertical siding
to avoid the gutter affect of J.
The vertical will sit on the horizontal lip,giving a straight
enough line to be pleasing to the eye,just keep this edge straight.
Any expansion will be upwards,and as long as the siding moves
freely.the line will remain straight..
When extending past the length of the panel on high walls, the
narrow profile of the flashing shouldn't be too obtrusive.
You could also incorporate a clad 1x,covered in matching coil,
to brake up the long vertical lines.
I would install this at the height of the transition from the shorter
walls so there is some continuity to the installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep, tried lapping a piece today and that is a no go. I've decided to have some flashing made of a similar color with a J on top of it.
Thanks for all the input.
 

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OneAboveAll
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2 different sized soffit never...ever get mitered

besides what your looking at are an eave and a gable end
Tom I agree I never try to mitre 2 different soffit width's when conjoining them at any juncture!
Question Tom.... if you have a nail flange of 2½" on bottom and top with the out being
3/4" pass your J-chnl having ¼" holes drilled through it with the top bent at a downward pitch on the trim do you believe any extra flashing would need to be required? Would like to hear your opinionon on this if you could please, thanks Tom!
 

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Tom I agree I never try to mitre 2 different soffit width's when conjoining them at any juncture!
Question Tom.... if you have a nail flange of 2½" on bottom and top with the out being
3/4" pass your J-chnl having ¼" holes drilled through it with the top bent at a downward pitch on the trim do you believe any extra flashing would need to be required? Would like to hear your opinionon on this if you could please, thanks Tom!
as long as the paper is lapped properly at the flanges i think thats fine if i'm reading it correctly
 

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Now I'm not to sure this is the proper method or not but what I did here is bend up a T for the bottom that also caps the 3/4" insulation and the old existing siding leaving it about 3/4" below to allow a chase for cable and phone lines.



 
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