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David Festa
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I failed a fire inspection on a project because the utility room does not have a fire door? The inspector thinks the furnace and boiler will suck the air out of the bathroom room, he wants a fire rated door for both the utility room and laundry room doors, a vent in the wall between the two rooms and a vent in the ceiling so the fresh air is taken from the attic.
 

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You cant take combustible air from a bathroom, you would need to bring in air via jump ducts high & low, or one large grill. I dont know whats above or below but the code gives several options. You have an exterior wall too. There is a rule allowing one large opening. You still need a sealed door passage. Hope that helps.

They dont want hairspray of something else being drawn into the furnace.
 

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David Festa
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There’s nothing but attic above the utility room. Both the tankless and boiler both have fresh air intakes and exhaust from the outside. I talked to a few other builders and two plumbers, all said the same thing, fresh air for each unit and louvered doors to dissipate heat is correct
 

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If its a direct vent you wouldnt need the louvre doors, if they want to maintain a fire rating I would think it ends at the utility room door not both.(the laundry room door)

Can you place a call to him and ask for a citation, tell him you want to understand better? Technically thay cant tell you what to use since they are not the designer. Most inspectors will point you in the right direct to help you and cover them.
 

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David Festa
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I agree, the fire rating and venting should stop at the utility room and not be transferred into the laundry room. I’m calling the inspector today to get a clearer picture but before I do I want a better understanding of what is the norm
 

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David Festa
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Lets us know what comes of it, maybe I can learn something I didnt know.
Same here, I have always installed louvered doors for venting and heat dissipation on laundry rooms and utility rooms, never failed inspection until now. The homeowner hired plumber is not helping at all, he doesn’t want to install a fresh air intake for the boiler because of freezing? I would really like to know if installing a fresh air intake for the boiler will satisfy code so I can push the issue with the HO
 

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Venting a room where there is a need for fire rated assemblies into an attic plenum seems weird. I would think you need a fire damper going into the attic
 

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David Festa
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Venting into the attic just causes other issues, instead of confining a fire within the bathroom, fire can now spread thru the attic to other parts of the house
 

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David Festa
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just talked to another builder, he mentioned he had a similar issue, inspector wanted a 12” vent 12” off the floor and another 12” vent within 12” of the ceiling, a 20 minute fire door (with sill), wall insulation, ½” plywood on walls with 5/8” rock, and double 5/8” rock on the ceiling. WTF!!!!! I don’t think the 12” vents will be an option because the plumbers tankless direct vent would cause an issue
 

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The code allows you to take air from adjoining spaces such as an attic, a basement, and outside. For air to circulate the code wants high & low vents. This only applies to combustion air. I have never heard of the need for heat dissipation. If you have a direct vent/ catagory iv (high efficency) appliances there is no need for additional fresh air ventilation. All appliances have a minimum clearance to combustibles, if your walls or ceilings are framed too close to the chimney connector or applaince then you need fire rated building materials for protection.

What kind of appliance are in the 2 rooms? Something doesnt gel.
 

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David Festa
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It’s a stackable washer & dryer
I spoke to my architect, code states no combustible appliances in bedrooms and bathrooms, didn’t know that applied to bathrooms. My architect recommended solid core doors, weather stripping, door sweeps, door closers, high & low vents. Fresh air from the attic is ok but still need a another vent either from the crawl or outside
 

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Now that you peaked my interest I checked the code. If you do have a fuel burning appliance not directly vented and the adjoining space is a bedroom or toilet room then the code only wants air from the outdoors. No inside air is allowed. The door should be weatherstripped and self closing. A solid wood door will get you the 20 min
 

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It’s a stackable washer & dryer
I spoke to my architect, code states no combustible appliances in bedrooms and bathrooms, didn’t know that applied to bathrooms. My architect recommended solid core doors, weather stripping, door sweeps, door closers, high & low vents. Fresh air from the attic is ok but still need a another vent either from the crawl or outside
We responded at the same time, a dryer is still a fuel burning appliance. There was an exception for dryers to be allowed to draw air from indoors.
 

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If you can slide a square duct up through the ceiling past the insulation at least 2 inches and do same below you good with a new door. Just put a screen grill on them.
 

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Didn't the town approve the plans? I just had the same thing, with the laundry in the bathroom. The town rejected me in the application process. A lot of times the inspectors are set in their ways and don't understand the new technology.
 

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David Festa
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Steve57 said:
Didn't the town approve the plans? I just had the same thing, with the laundry in the bathroom. The town rejected me in the application process. A lot of times the inspectors are set in their ways and don't understand the new technology.
The drawing in my post was the plan submitted to the town, plan clearly shows tankless but doesn't state washer, dryer and boiler so I can see why the town could have missed it
 
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