Use only screws or nails that are galvanized and designed for pressure-treated wood

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/new-pressure-treated-wood-decks.aspx

 

I have used Pressure treated since the first failure of man made trim. Wood has proven itself over & over. Customers may know it is the fault of the trim, but still look at you, because it failed, leaving a customer questioning your knowledge of materials used.

You can use # 1, but it is rare I use # 1 here in SC, because we have nice hot weather, with lots of sun. The surface moisture on any of the lumber dries fairly fast & the bit on it does not or never has seemed to bother the process.

With the # 2, (depending on how wet the lumber is when delivered, I mean by standing water on the lumber) if none, soon as it is unloaded, we find a place off the lawn & spray or sponge mop with Olympic Clear seal, install, siding & trim, after at least 72 hrs, then it can painted with 100% acrylic latex paint. I use S/W problock. Then finish with 2 coats S/W latex exterior super paint grade at the least.
Works great every time.
The Olympic clear seal slows the drying process, minimizes shrinkage & movement as wood dries. Must always wait 72 hrs before painting, manufacturers recommendation.
The latex allows any moisture inside the wood to escape without harming the finish,

Also consider one of their elastomeric Sealants, we use NP1 from roofing supply, but I believe it is S/W's Pro select is the caulk they developed with the same properties as NP1 for exterior use. Caulk exposed nail heads as well to prevent moisture seeping in.

 

Best bet is see if your supplier
can get KDAT for you.
A lot would depend on
WHERE YOU ARE!
Here in the East PT = YP,
West coast guys get fir...
a totally different animal.

My experience is Alkyd primers
work best, but I either use KDAT,
or order ahead and let it air dry for 4-6 weeks.

 

why not use azek? I cant see the logic of installing something that will rot, next to siding that is supposed to last forever.

 

I agree Patrick or the hardie trim i never used it but my buddy has had good luck with it

 

Thanks for all the replies.

1) All stainless.
2) I am in Japan near Tokyo close to the ocean, where we have a rainy season where everything is wet for a month and often driving rain. There is a subculture of western framers, drywallers/ painters. A lot of this work is shared.

3) Exterior is usually left to the Japanese and generally, siding is always installed with a half inch air gap here.
This is Hardiplank so I am stuck with the job.
The Hardiplank is right on the Tyvek allowing no air circulation. I know this is US standard but it is also the cheapest way.
It seems that Tyvek Drainwrap was made to address this problem. I doubt whether it is as effective as an air gap.
4) Azek - maybe good but i will not use it.
3/4 of the house seems OK. I have done some prodding, but will do more when I get into it.
5) Some of the materials will be coming in a container from Washington and stored in a small warehouse I have.
It will sit for a while before I use it so it will be very dry.
Although not the best place to get wood, it will come from Home Depot or Lowes. I assume they will not go bankrupt this month.

Thanks all
Gary

 

Although not the best place to get wood, it will come from Home Depot or Lowes. I assume they will not go bankrupt this month.

Thanks all
Gary

That should look really awesome :thumbsup::thumbsup: