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Using mesh tape for inside corners

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mesh tape paper tape
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#41 ·
TNTSERVICES said:
Does it flex and move or not?
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Haha sorry Rob.
My line of thoughts are hard to follow.
There's so many people commenting on this thread I get lost with whats been said. When I was agreeing with "jb4211" who said:

"someone on CT (I forget who) made a point of mentioning that if you take two joints, one with mesh and one with paper and see which one is stronger. The paper won every time. The mesh is designed to move, the paper...not so much. I've been using paper ever since I have no issues."

I kind'a contradicted myself from earlier when I said mesh has no flexibility. Clearly any tape will flex and or move. I was thinking more along the lines that when mesh does move, it tends to crack.
Whereas paper will hold stronger. Everything will move or flex if the house makes it do so.
So when I was agreeing with him that was my line of though. In my earlier comment I shouldnt have stated that "there's no room for movement with fiber tape. It wont flex", what I should have said was "There's no room for movement with fiber tape. It cracks too easily."
Under pressure fiber tape will almost always crack before paper tape.
But everything has the possibility of flexing and moving, just wether or not it holds true.
Those are my thoughts.


TNTSERVICES said:
Obviously all of these products have there place, even paper backed metal. It's silly to say that metal is flimsy and doesn't give a straight line. It's a lot more strong than just paper and of course it can help straighten a line.
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I kind'a have to agree with Rob on this one "Butcherman".
I'll still probably never use the metal back crap for an inside corner.
But metal does tend to be stronger than paper. lol.
 
#42 · (Edited)
The metal may be stronger in the way it won't tear as easily. But that's it. The metal tape will not straighten an angle. It's not stiff enough and molds to a wall just like paper. If you don't believe me then snap a line. Level line is a much better option all around. It's stiffer, easier to cut and is a better finish product. It makes metal tape obsolete. I stand by my experience. Do what works for you. I just suggest replacing metal tape with level line. Then let me know what you think. Again, it's just my opinion.
 
#43 ·
BUTCHERMAN said:
The metal may be stronger in the way it won't tear as easily. But that's it. The metal tape will not straighten an angle. It's not stiff enough and molds to a wall just like paper. If you don't believe me then snap a line. Level line is a much better option all around. It's stiffer, easier to cut and is a better finish product. It makes metal tape obsolete. I stand by my experience. Do what works for you. I just suggest replacing metal tape with level line. Then let me know what you think. Again, it's just my opinion.
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ya ya. To each his own eh?
Like I said, I would never use it anyways.
I only use paper tape on inside corners.
To use any type of metal backed bead or straight flex or anything thats not tape just seems ridiculous to me. lol.
 
#44 ·
PrecisionTaping said:
ya ya. To each his own eh?
Like I said, I would never use it anyways.
I only use paper tape on inside corners.
To use any type of metal backed bead or straight flex or anything thats not tape just seems ridiculous to me. lol.
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So who sands?
 
#45 ·
BUTCHERMAN said:
The metal may be stronger in the way it won't tear as easily. But that's it. The metal tape will not straighten an angle. It's not stiff enough and molds to a wall just like paper. If you don't believe me then snap a line. Level line is a much better option all around. It's stiffer, easier to cut and is a better finish product. It makes metal tape obsolete. I stand by my experience. Do what works for you. I just suggest replacing metal tape with level line. Then let me know what you think. Again, it's just my opinion.
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Butcher, we can go around and around with this.

Metal is stronger than paper...that's just physics. When I say paper I am speaking of plain paper. While metal does have flex, not nearly as much as plain paper. Again, it's silly to suggest otherwise. I have installed plenty of paper backed metal and it has helped straighten lines and even things out.

I will try level line. I am all for easier and better.
 
#46 ·
TNTSERVICES said:
Butcher, we can go around and around with this.

Metal is stronger than paper...that's just physics. When I say paper I am speaking of plain paper. While metal does have flex, not nearly as much as plain paper. Again, it's silly to suggest otherwise. I have installed plenty of paper backed metal and it has helped straighten lines and even things out.

I will try level line. I am all for easier and better.
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Snapping lines will be useless since your finished product will only be as good as the framing behind it. I used the metal paper stuff and have ended up using the good ole metal again. The worst thing for me was cleaning the corner between coats and scraping a piece of paper off.
 
#47 ·
ohiohomedoctor said:
Snapping lines will be useless since your finished product will only be as good as the framing behind it. I used the metal paper stuff and have ended up using the good ole metal again. The worst thing for me was cleaning the corner between coats and scraping a piece of paper off.
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Too much pressure...lighten up a bit.
 
#51 ·
TNTSERVICES said:
Butcher, we can go around and around with this.

Metal is stronger than paper...that's just physics.
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I am not arguing that. My point is that is irrelevant.

When I say paper I am speaking of plain paper. While metal does have flex, not nearly as much as plain paper. Again, it's silly to suggest otherwise. I have installed plenty of paper backed metal and it has helped straighten lines and even things out.
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I don't see how without pre fills. If you build over the top you invite cracking. There will still be movement with settling and you risk peeling. My point is paper tape bonds better and is the way to go. The better way to straighten an angle is to do it before you tape. It's just my take. If it's not broke then don't fix it.

I will try level line. I am all for easier and better.
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Good luck with that. I think you will like it and find many other uses for it.
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#52 ·
ohiohomedoctor said:
Snapping lines will be useless since your finished product will only be as good as the framing behind it. I used the metal paper stuff and have ended up using the good ole metal again. The worst thing for me was cleaning the corner between coats and scraping a piece of paper off.
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We just take different approaches to solving the problem. If the framing is off and you have a belly in the ceiling. What I would do would be this. When hanging the wall, you butt the factory edge to the ceiling. That’s when you see the belly. When taping I would use tite bond glue to fill the belly. Then take the screws out of the ceiling until the ceiling rests on the top of the wall. While the glue is fresh tape the angle. Your angle will be as straight as the factory edge of the sheet rock. It's very important to have your rockers on the same page as the tapers. The results speak for themselves.

Also, we need to understand framing. A lot of drywall people are quick to blame framing. That's not always the case. You need to understand ground settling, wood shrinks when the moisture dries up and how much bouncing around the framing gets by plumbers, electricians, etc. There are many factors that come into play between framing and rocking. Framers don't get the respect they earn. That said there are a few bad apples that make them all look bad. We have that in drywall as well. We need to remember that.
 
#53 ·
BUTCHERMAN said:
We just take different approaches to solving the problem. If the framing is off and you have a belly in the ceiling. What I would do would be this. When hanging the wall, you butt the factory edge to the ceiling. That’s when you see the belly. When taping I would use tite bond glue to fill the belly. Then take the screws out of the ceiling until the ceiling rests on the top of the wall. While the glue is fresh tape the angle. Your angle will be as straight as the factory edge of the sheet rock. It's very important to have your rockers on the same page as the tapers. The results speak for themselves.

Also, we need to understand framing. A lot of drywall people are quick to blame framing. That's not always the case. You need to understand ground settling, wood shrinks when the moisture dries up and how much bouncing around the framing gets by plumbers, electricians, etc. There are many factors that come into play between framing and rocking. Framers don't get the respect they earn. That said there are a few bad apples that make them all look bad. We have that in drywall as well. We need to remember that.
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Very well said "Butcherman"!
Lets just leave it at that.
Everyone has their own tips and tricks.
As long as it works for you and you have a nice clean job and the client is happy. We might be all a little different in styles, but hopefully we should all strive for the same end product. Flawless.
 
#55 ·
onthelevel said:
No offense to the mesh guys out there but the stuff stucks!!!
Invented for homeowner in my opinion.
Use paper of the metal inside corners for lasting results:thumbsup:
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haha! I'll agree with you that mesh sucks.
But I have never used tape with the metal on the inside.
Probably never will either.
My regular paper tape does just fine. Great actually!!
 
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