What is your opinion on using mesh tape on inside corners?
And that's kinda my point...for guys that do it all day everyday and can tape a corner like no one's business, metal back corners are a waste. Most guys like me that do my own drywall need as many quick tips, tricks and techniques to get to a nice finish.Ya if it works for you, who am i judge.
I agree with you that not everything should be based on price.
If you're only doing a bedroom here and there than thats great.
It just seems like allot more work to me, mostly because of the size of the houses we do. I couldn't imagine putting beads in every inside corner.
Props to you for making it work.
I hear you bro!And that's kinda my point...for guys that do it all day everyday and can tape a corner like no one's business, metal back corners are a waste. Most guys like me that do my own drywall need as many quick tips, tricks and techniques to get to a nice finish.
I haven't tried the straight flex yet, they just put some in at the local HD, maybe I'll give it a try! :thumbsup:First. No, I never use mesh for inside corners.
Second. 90% of my jobs are small remodels. I can pound out a job in one day,and sand the next morning. I don't have time for paper,sorry.
TNT likes that metal backed stuff and I like straight flex for corners.
BOOM! And its done.:thumbsup:
Sorry for my ignorance, but just what is straight flex?...and I like straight flex for corners...
Here's the website for straightflex.Sorry for my ignorance, but just what is straight flex?
? :huh:I like paper my carpenter like mesh.I don't evan wont to work with him on that part I hate mesh so much he thinks its taped once the mesh is down. it sands like crap. I always cut some corner some were.
The width.sorry miss post on my previous one. was wondering the difference between no coat ultraflex tape and the level line? these seem to be the same products to me
Well said.I used to use mesh tape, basically because it was easier because it's self-adhesive. But someone on CT (I forget who) made a point of mentioning that if you take two joints, one with mesh and one with paper and see which one is stronger. The paper won every time. The mesh is designed to move, the paper...not so much. I've been using paper ever since I have no issues.
PrecisionTaping;1385445 And as has already been mentionned said:Does it flex and move or not?Well said.
Obviously all of these products have there place, even paper backed metal. It's silly to say that metal is flimsy and doesn't give a straight line. It's a lot more strong than just paper and of course it can help straighten a line.This is just my opinion on the matter. I don't intend to offend.
Paper tape is the way to go on a 90 degree angle. End of story, you get the best results. I apply with banjo and use a corner roller to tuck tight. Then wipe. You can use the fill stick between roller and wipe for a better fill and cleaner wipe. I don't find it's needed unless you are doing a tape coat only.
Mesh does belong in drywall. I don't see how anyone can say it doesn't. It can be used in angles, but I wouldn't use it to do angles at all. If there is a blow out in an angle, I would cut it out, use mesh and ez sand to pack it out, and then go over with paper tape. Mesh has other uses. It's the best thing for plaster repairs and tying an existing plaster wall to new drywall or floating a closed off door in the middle of a plaster wall. I wouldn't use it in the conventional way that some guys do as a short cut, because it isn't. Unless you set it properly it's useless. You can set paper just as quickly. It's always easier to float out paper than mesh.
My opinion is metal tape has no business in drywall. The metal is to flimsy and does nothing to straighten an angle. It as useless as flex 90. A better option is level line. Once creased it is stronger than metal tape or flex 90 and coats a lot better as long as you don't take it to the corner. You have to miter the corners and that's why I won’t use any of the no coat products on 90 degree angles. I would only use it on a straight run that needs a little help or certain obtuse angles that I can't use magic corner on because there are existing angles that have a sharp finish.
The problem with straight flex is it is too stiff. The angles don't crack but the straight flex pops. I don't know how many times out of frustration a home owner calls me to fix a trey that keeps popping because the guys who did it used straight flex. The slightest movement and the stuff pops and then peels. It usually happens in about a year. It doesn't happen all the time and in most cases not at all. But it happens enough that level line is a better option than straight flex. This is the reason that straight flex came out with flex 90. Because they know it.