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Ya if it works for you, who am i judge.
I agree with you that not everything should be based on price.
If you're only doing a bedroom here and there than thats great.
It just seems like allot more work to me, mostly because of the size of the houses we do. I couldn't imagine putting beads in every inside corner.
Props to you for making it work.
And that's kinda my point...for guys that do it all day everyday and can tape a corner like no one's business, metal back corners are a waste. Most guys like me that do my own drywall need as many quick tips, tricks and techniques to get to a nice finish.
 
And that's kinda my point...for guys that do it all day everyday and can tape a corner like no one's business, metal back corners are a waste. Most guys like me that do my own drywall need as many quick tips, tricks and techniques to get to a nice finish.
I hear you bro!
And I am that guy, who tapes all day everyday and tapes corners like nobodys business! lol.
Well if you ever need tips or advice, hit me up!
 
First. No, I never use mesh for inside corners.
Second. 90% of my jobs are small remodels. I can pound out a job in one day,and sand the next morning. I don't have time for paper,sorry.

TNT likes that metal backed stuff and I like straight flex for corners.

BOOM! And its done.:thumbsup:
 
First. No, I never use mesh for inside corners.
Second. 90% of my jobs are small remodels. I can pound out a job in one day,and sand the next morning. I don't have time for paper,sorry.

TNT likes that metal backed stuff and I like straight flex for corners.

BOOM! And its done.:thumbsup:
I haven't tried the straight flex yet, they just put some in at the local HD, maybe I'll give it a try! :thumbsup:
 
I think the straightflexis great. they have it in different thicknesses. forms a corner real nice. also a bit pricey. but itsa nice job.they sell it at the boxes over here
 
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Sorry for my ignorance, but just what is straight flex?
Here's the website for straightflex.
http://store.straitflex.com/category_s/3.htm
Its often used primarily for offset angles. But as you can see some also use it for inside 90degree corners.

Where Im from we dont have this exact product.
We use whats called Ultraflex.
http://www.no-coat.com/NO-COAT/ARCHITECTS/Products/ULTRAFLEX/
Ultraflex is great for offset angles commonly found in cathedrals or coffered ceilings.

I personally couldnt imagine using it for inside corners.
It just seems like way more work to me. And very expensive.
But it works for some.
 
straight flex all the way for inside corners here. especially on smaller jobs like kitchens baths etc. both sides can be done at the same time saves labor and time. yea a bit pricey but a full time taper buddy of mine turned me on to it a couple years ago and i love the stuff :thumbup:
 
I like paper my carpenter like mesh.I don't evan wont to work with him on that part I hate mesh so much he thinks its taped once the mesh is down. it sands like crap. I always cut some corner some were.
 
This is just my opinion on the matter. I don't intend to offend.

Paper tape is the way to go on a 90 degree angle. End of story, you get the best results. I apply with banjo and use a corner roller to tuck tight. Then wipe. You can use the fill stick between roller and wipe for a better fill and cleaner wipe. I don't find it's needed unless you are doing a tape coat only.

Mesh does belong in drywall. I don't see how anyone can say it doesn't. It can be used in angles, but I wouldn't use it to do angles at all. If there is a blow out in an angle, I would cut it out, use mesh and ez sand to pack it out, and then go over with paper tape. Mesh has other uses. It's the best thing for plaster repairs and tying an existing plaster wall to new drywall or floating a closed off door in the middle of a plaster wall. I wouldn't use it in the conventional way that some guys do as a short cut, because it isn't. Unless you set it properly it's useless. You can set paper just as quickly. It's always easier to float out paper than mesh.

My opinion is metal tape has no business in drywall. The metal is to flimsy and does nothing to straighten an angle. It as useless as flex 90. A better option is level line. Once creased it is stronger than metal tape or flex 90 and coats a lot better as long as you don't take it to the corner. You have to miter the corners and that's why I won’t use any of the no coat products on 90 degree angles. I would only use it on a straight run that needs a little help or certain obtuse angles that I can't use magic corner on because there are existing angles that have a sharp finish.

The problem with straight flex is it is too stiff. The angles don't crack but the straight flex pops. I don't know how many times out of frustration a home owner calls me to fix a trey that keeps popping because the guys who did it used straight flex. The slightest movement and the stuff pops and then peels. It usually happens in about a year. It doesn't happen all the time and in most cases not at all. But it happens enough that level line is a better option than straight flex. This is the reason that straight flex came out with flex 90. Because they know it.
 
I agree with everything "Butcherman" said.
Especially this part regarding mesh tape
"It's the best thing for plaster repairs and tying an existing plaster wall to new drywall or floating a closed off door in the middle of a plaster wall. I wouldn't use it in the conventional way that some guys do as a short cut, because it isn't. Unless you set it properly it's useless. You can set paper just as quickly. It's always easier to float out paper than mesh."

When I was agreeing with "Ohiohomedoctor" about how I personally didnt feel fiber tape belonged in drywall, I more or less meant in new construction. Like "Butcherman" stated, "I wouldnt use it in the conventional way that some guys do".
I think its great for some applications but for conventional drywall I strongly recommend paper tape.
 
I used to use mesh tape, basically because it was easier because it's self-adhesive. But someone on CT (I forget who) made a point of mentioning that if you take two joints, one with mesh and one with paper and see which one is stronger. The paper won every time. The mesh is designed to move, the paper...not so much. I've been using paper ever since I have no issues.
 
I used to use mesh tape, basically because it was easier because it's self-adhesive. But someone on CT (I forget who) made a point of mentioning that if you take two joints, one with mesh and one with paper and see which one is stronger. The paper won every time. The mesh is designed to move, the paper...not so much. I've been using paper ever since I have no issues.
Well said.
 
This is just my opinion on the matter. I don't intend to offend.

Paper tape is the way to go on a 90 degree angle. End of story, you get the best results. I apply with banjo and use a corner roller to tuck tight. Then wipe. You can use the fill stick between roller and wipe for a better fill and cleaner wipe. I don't find it's needed unless you are doing a tape coat only.

Mesh does belong in drywall. I don't see how anyone can say it doesn't. It can be used in angles, but I wouldn't use it to do angles at all. If there is a blow out in an angle, I would cut it out, use mesh and ez sand to pack it out, and then go over with paper tape. Mesh has other uses. It's the best thing for plaster repairs and tying an existing plaster wall to new drywall or floating a closed off door in the middle of a plaster wall. I wouldn't use it in the conventional way that some guys do as a short cut, because it isn't. Unless you set it properly it's useless. You can set paper just as quickly. It's always easier to float out paper than mesh.

My opinion is metal tape has no business in drywall. The metal is to flimsy and does nothing to straighten an angle. It as useless as flex 90. A better option is level line. Once creased it is stronger than metal tape or flex 90 and coats a lot better as long as you don't take it to the corner. You have to miter the corners and that's why I won’t use any of the no coat products on 90 degree angles. I would only use it on a straight run that needs a little help or certain obtuse angles that I can't use magic corner on because there are existing angles that have a sharp finish.

The problem with straight flex is it is too stiff. The angles don't crack but the straight flex pops. I don't know how many times out of frustration a home owner calls me to fix a trey that keeps popping because the guys who did it used straight flex. The slightest movement and the stuff pops and then peels. It usually happens in about a year. It doesn't happen all the time and in most cases not at all. But it happens enough that level line is a better option than straight flex. This is the reason that straight flex came out with flex 90. Because they know it.
Obviously all of these products have there place, even paper backed metal. It's silly to say that metal is flimsy and doesn't give a straight line. It's a lot more strong than just paper and of course it can help straighten a line.
 
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