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Using mesh tape for inside corners

116K views 234 replies 31 participants last post by  Sir Mixalot  
#1 ·
What is your opinion on using mesh tape on inside corners?
 
#4 ·
But only on the bonding quote. Subsequent coats can be whatever you want to use.

I would recommend that you use a premixed "top coat" or "light weight" as your final coat. There are too many adhesion issues with hot mud and paint.
 
#7 ·
TNTSERVICES said:
But only on the bonding quote. Subsequent coats can be whatever you want to use.

I would recommend that you use a premixed "top coat" or "light weight" as your final coat. There are too many adhesion issues with hot mud and paint.
If you prime it first, no problems. Paint is not pva primer.
 
#9 ·
TNTSERVICES said:
I always prime, but still have an issue. Sometimes will blister, sometimes crackle and others, no problem. I never have a problem when I top coat with premix.
Thats weird, I dont usually have that problem. I wonder if its a dry time issue. I 100% agree with top coating final application, if for nothing else easier sanding.
 
#10 ·
You can use mesh in the corners.

You need to make sure you don't cut the inside corner when you are floating. Also I don't think mesh will give you as crisp a corner as paper.

I prefer paper tape...period.
 
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#62 ·
Well we are only on page 4 so far jkfox ;)

Have to wonder why people bother with mesh when paper works better and is easier and faster to work with?

Paper in corners leaves a finer corner and you can run corner tools over it to get a perfect finish.

Paper tape can be applied with an automatic taper (bazooka) where mesh tape can not.

Mesh tape probably has its place for the home handyman but paper is the way to go guys!
 
#16 ·
A whole whack load of opinions!

First things first...No!
Quite simply, no.
Dont put fiber tape in corners. Its just wrong.
It won't fold or crease nicely into the corner, so your left with a wavy fiber tape thats half rounded in your corner. Then when you go to pass your putty knife over it to coat it you're just going to end up cutting into it which means its useless anyways.
And as has already been mentionned, there's no room for movement with fiber tape. It wont flex.

I also agree with everything "ohiohomedoctor" had to say.
I dont personally think mesh tape has any place in drywall.
And beads in a corner!? So expensive...why?
Im sure it looks great! But so does my regular tape!

I might at the very most use mesh tape for a last minute touch up we missed somewhere around a plug or something. Thats it.
Or of its an old reno and im sure the house wont move.
I never ever use fiber tape in new construction. Houses settle in the first few years and there's just no flexibility in fiber tape I find.
Just my opinion.
 
#17 ·
And beads in a corner!? So expensive...why?
Im sure it looks great! But so does my regular tape!
Like I said, cleaner, easier, straighter, and looks better. I don't base all things on cost. For $20-$35 a room, well worth the end result. 10-14 sticks per room (closets get tape), at $2.50 a stick, it's not "so expensive".

Just a lot less fuss and mess. It also doesn't require years of experience to figure out. I have had guys that have little to no experience, pick it up and run with it the same day.
 
#23 ·
First. No, I never use mesh for inside corners.
Second. 90% of my jobs are small remodels. I can pound out a job in one day,and sand the next morning. I don't have time for paper,sorry.

TNT likes that metal backed stuff and I like straight flex for corners.

BOOM! And its done.:thumbsup:
 
#28 ·
straight flex all the way for inside corners here. especially on smaller jobs like kitchens baths etc. both sides can be done at the same time saves labor and time. yea a bit pricey but a full time taper buddy of mine turned me on to it a couple years ago and i love the stuff :thumbup:
 
#30 ·
This is just my opinion on the matter. I don't intend to offend.

Paper tape is the way to go on a 90 degree angle. End of story, you get the best results. I apply with banjo and use a corner roller to tuck tight. Then wipe. You can use the fill stick between roller and wipe for a better fill and cleaner wipe. I don't find it's needed unless you are doing a tape coat only.

Mesh does belong in drywall. I don't see how anyone can say it doesn't. It can be used in angles, but I wouldn't use it to do angles at all. If there is a blow out in an angle, I would cut it out, use mesh and ez sand to pack it out, and then go over with paper tape. Mesh has other uses. It's the best thing for plaster repairs and tying an existing plaster wall to new drywall or floating a closed off door in the middle of a plaster wall. I wouldn't use it in the conventional way that some guys do as a short cut, because it isn't. Unless you set it properly it's useless. You can set paper just as quickly. It's always easier to float out paper than mesh.

My opinion is metal tape has no business in drywall. The metal is to flimsy and does nothing to straighten an angle. It as useless as flex 90. A better option is level line. Once creased it is stronger than metal tape or flex 90 and coats a lot better as long as you don't take it to the corner. You have to miter the corners and that's why I won’t use any of the no coat products on 90 degree angles. I would only use it on a straight run that needs a little help or certain obtuse angles that I can't use magic corner on because there are existing angles that have a sharp finish.

The problem with straight flex is it is too stiff. The angles don't crack but the straight flex pops. I don't know how many times out of frustration a home owner calls me to fix a trey that keeps popping because the guys who did it used straight flex. The slightest movement and the stuff pops and then peels. It usually happens in about a year. It doesn't happen all the time and in most cases not at all. But it happens enough that level line is a better option than straight flex. This is the reason that straight flex came out with flex 90. Because they know it.
 
#40 ·
Obviously all of these products have there place, even paper backed metal. It's silly to say that metal is flimsy and doesn't give a straight line. It's a lot more strong than just paper and of course it can help straighten a line.
 
#36 ·
I agree with everything "Butcherman" said.
Especially this part regarding mesh tape
"It's the best thing for plaster repairs and tying an existing plaster wall to new drywall or floating a closed off door in the middle of a plaster wall. I wouldn't use it in the conventional way that some guys do as a short cut, because it isn't. Unless you set it properly it's useless. You can set paper just as quickly. It's always easier to float out paper than mesh."

When I was agreeing with "Ohiohomedoctor" about how I personally didnt feel fiber tape belonged in drywall, I more or less meant in new construction. Like "Butcherman" stated, "I wouldnt use it in the conventional way that some guys do".
I think its great for some applications but for conventional drywall I strongly recommend paper tape.
 
#37 ·
I used to use mesh tape, basically because it was easier because it's self-adhesive. But someone on CT (I forget who) made a point of mentioning that if you take two joints, one with mesh and one with paper and see which one is stronger. The paper won every time. The mesh is designed to move, the paper...not so much. I've been using paper ever since I have no issues.
 
#42 · (Edited)
The metal may be stronger in the way it won't tear as easily. But that's it. The metal tape will not straighten an angle. It's not stiff enough and molds to a wall just like paper. If you don't believe me then snap a line. Level line is a much better option all around. It's stiffer, easier to cut and is a better finish product. It makes metal tape obsolete. I stand by my experience. Do what works for you. I just suggest replacing metal tape with level line. Then let me know what you think. Again, it's just my opinion.
 
#44 ·
PrecisionTaping said:
ya ya. To each his own eh?
Like I said, I would never use it anyways.
I only use paper tape on inside corners.
To use any type of metal backed bead or straight flex or anything thats not tape just seems ridiculous to me. lol.
So who sands?
 
#46 ·
TNTSERVICES said:
Butcher, we can go around and around with this.

Metal is stronger than paper...that's just physics. When I say paper I am speaking of plain paper. While metal does have flex, not nearly as much as plain paper. Again, it's silly to suggest otherwise. I have installed plenty of paper backed metal and it has helped straighten lines and even things out.

I will try level line. I am all for easier and better.
Snapping lines will be useless since your finished product will only be as good as the framing behind it. I used the metal paper stuff and have ended up using the good ole metal again. The worst thing for me was cleaning the corner between coats and scraping a piece of paper off.
 
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