No reason you cant... Just makes for alot of extra butt joints and mud work. If your shop is 12 x 16 or anything just under 12' i would want to use 12' sheets and a helper. That would eliminate alot of extra taping and mud work if youre going for a clean finish. I would especially want to reduce the seams on the lid however possible. If the cieling joists run perpendicular to the 12' walls you can cut your seam work down massively. Would only have 3 factory seams on the lid.

Have you considered renting a drywall lift? Also, what thickness of drywall are you gonna be using? Are you going for a clean finish or just L2?

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No way I would want those extra seams.

 

Just no.

 

When you think about all the extra cutting and taping, the boards get lighter. Try a panel carrier tool, as well.

 

Second a drywall lift, it works for walls too.

 

Drywall lift was my impetus for the cordless screw gun and roto zip. Hated moving cords to push it around and cords always tangled.

 

Rent or buy(resell later) a lift, it will allow you to use 5/8" products EVERY where, sides and ceiliing. giving you MORE strength, less damage in the future, and more fire safety at a tiny cost today, quieter and Warmer/cooler

The walls will be much flatter as the longer DW flattens crazy studs some what, Don't be afraid to saw silly studs plumb(in and out axis) as needed with a chalk line and skil saw, save hours when shelving and installing cabinets later.

Any chance of water, USE fiberglass faced rock....

Hire a weight lifting buddy to help unload and hang the rock, in this case big is better.

I'd block any joints that are "exposed" in a shop to add strength to the "floating" parts of the dry wall seams.

Don't forget future cabinets blocking needs prior to DWalling.

 

Honestly, if I didn't think I could handle a 4X8, I'd call a drywall buddy of mine and see if he knows any hangers that want a side job.

 

I've hung a lot of drywall solo, screw blocks of wood on the walls and ceiling as needed for a second set of hands if you're going to do it solo. A bit of 1x4 and 2x4 can be quickly assembled in any configuration that will hold an end for you. Might be a good time to buy a third hand pole too.

Boarders would laugh at the way I've done it I'm sure but itll get ya there and save hours and hours of finishing 4x4 sheets.

 

BTW, if you can't work the crank on a drywall lift, it's possible to build one that uses an electric hoist.

It takes a little time to make one out of 2X6s and 2X4s, but a home made electric one works fine.

 

WTF, your a plumber...

go install an extra toilet or water heater and pay a dry wall guy...

 

WTF, your a plumber...



go install an extra toilet or water heater and pay a dry wall guy...

LOL. 100% the best way to do it.

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It is a shop....gee.

My shop has visible spray foam, and some day (we all know that one), I intend to line it with OSB. It would matter not one bit to do 4 foot rock, and if a guy wanted a cool look, trim it all with 1x4s fora coffered ceiling. Think of all the ways you could hang stuff from the ceiling then. And minimal taping. Like none.

 

It is a shop....gee.

My shop has visible spray foam, and some day (we all know that one), I intend to line it with OSB. It would matter not one bit to do 4 foot rock, and if a guy wanted a cool look, trim it all with 1x4s fora coffered ceiling. Think of all the ways you could hang stuff from the ceiling then. And minimal taping. Like none.

This is what I was thinking also. Makes hanging things on the wall much easier.

 

Buy more beer and you'll never notice the difference.

 

If you can't lift 4x8 sheets of 1/2 inch, you need to exercise more.

Seriously though, just grab a lift for like 50 bucks a day and get it done. Or a buddy. And I'd still use a lift on the lid.

Use 12's if possible and it's done quick and easy.

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He's a plumber, the only does 24 oz at a time, 12 oz in each hand. Sorry couldn't resist.

 

Drywall for fire resistance, then mill some french cleats for hanging cabinets, tool bars, or hangers.

 

I did 1/2 ply in my garage so it’s easier to hang things on.

Also helped that I got it all for free from a builder that couldn’t count [emoji106]

 

different codes up there, eh?

 

No. No reason.

Drywall used to come even smaller than that, and no one complained.

 

No. No reason.

Drywall used to come even smaller than that, and no one complained.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uarkKxJkZs

I'd love to see a similar video of someone installing wood lath. Haven't been able to find one. But I bet they flew. How else could you install so many pieces in a reasonable amount of time? Whenever I demo them it's remarkable to fill a dumpster with 1/4x 1 1/2" strips of wood.

 

That's crazy that he can do that well with a hatchet. I've seen boxes cut worse than that with a roto zip. Also, I'm old enough to know that they are going to plaster over it. Never understood why the pieces are so small though.

 

I demo plenty of that type around here. Some has holes in it. Labeled rocklath. 16x48" I guess less waste with small pieces, and since it was getting plastered over, might as well be small. Also was about as heavy as a piece of 1/2" 4x8 ultralight.

 

Mouth full of nails.

 

I grew up in an old farm house that had a tight winder staircase leading to the upstairs bedrooms. The bedrooms were finished in 4x4 sheets because that's the largest that could be brought upstairs. sometimes it is what it is.

 

Had a job like that once and it was after seeing an article about cutting the back paper at 4'.
Then fold the board over, then when you get it up the stairs, unfold it and you have an 8' piece.

There was a very slight line where the fold was , but one coat of compound with no tape and it disappears.

 

The 16" x 96" "rock lathe" was an intermediate stage between 3 coat Plaster on metal or wood lathe....before the current soft mud drywall now common....

NO ONE can ever claim any soft mud dry wall as equal to any plaster cement finish that has actually set hard as opposed to just drying out. IMHO.

As is using ANY paper faced products in rooms that sooner or later will get wet, like kitchens, Bathes and laundry rooms, or in rooms below the water table (basements) is IMO silly and fiscally retarded in the long run.

Did you note the 'holey' Rock lathe on the short panels for added keying in of the top coat and or brown coat if used.

Buckets of plaster will fit up any stairway an adult male can climb...:jester:

The smarter GCs leave "sally Ports" of window openings(and the sill wall under them) left open temporarily for the drywallers to avoid paying a Human to raise the material to second floor by hand.

Smart Mac-Manses have a very large window/french door on the second/third floor where large furniture and remodeling materials can pass through at minimum cost to all involved.

 

Smart Mac-Manses have a very large window/french door on the second/third floor where large furniture and remodeling materials can pass through at minimum cost to all involved.

lake houses too, but on the water side vs street side :thumbsup:

 

One benefit of my shop is that it has no studs. Just OSB (SIPs). Also, I am recovering from an accident and am somewhat messed up.

 

why not just texture/paint over the osb...

 

Thanks for all these helpful suggestions. I wanted to share some pictures of my shop and ask a couple more questions...

My shop is a timber frame I cut myself and enclosed with SIPs. Here's the 1st wall I want to start in on...

I was thinking of starting from the top and hanging horizontally (red arrow instead of the green arrow) and then work my way down. I don't have to worry about studs and the walls are flat. I have the timbers furred out so I can tuck the ends behind so there should never be any gaps. The span you see is less than 8' so could I cut a 4x8 into two pieces and install them with the seam in the middle?

Does this sound reasonable?

 

That looks like a real nice building!

You want to stagger your butt joints and try not to have them in the middle of the span. If it were me and I didn't want to handle 8' sheets: Since you don't have to worry about stud location; consider cutting the first sheet at say 6', then finish that "course" with a 2' piece. The lower row, start with say a 3' piece and finish it with a 5' piece. The new light-weight drywall really is pretty light. All the butt joints at 4' will not give you a nice finish, regardless of how good a finisher is.

That being said. If I had the privilege of owning a timber frame, that would be finished with wood T&G or maybe board and batten type look. Heck even that cheap prefinished flooring from HD would look great.

 

Rent a drywall lift. For $50 it will be easier than holding 4x4 sheets and you don’t have a ugly butt joint

 

and you don’t have a ugly butt joint

I thought it was called "plumbers crack"?