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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Stained concrete floor w solvent based sealer on it..customer decides to grind everything off and change colors... we grinded w metal diamond bits, which leave it incredibably smooth.. (same bits I start with when I'm polishing concrete) put the stain down everything looks good..then we sealed it. Looked good when we left, came back two days later and it looked splotchy.

My first thought was I sprayed to fast. So I rolled a 50 ft section and sprayed a 50 ft section next to it...obviously the rolled side went on much thicker, but when I was done they both looked the same so I went ahead and sprayed the whole floor again..

Came back and it looks splotchy again

Is it because the concrete was too porous after the metal bits or is it because we had
the windows open and it was raining outside? Maybe humidity settled on it?
Can you see what I'm referring to in the reflection of the light? It looks like overspray. I thought I'd post the same pic 3 times just for effects btw..its not that I am new smart phone challenged.
 

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Looks to me like it's an issue like you said , humidity. Same effect that it would have on a wood sealer . I would look for a phone # on the can and give them a call , maybe their tech dept can help you out .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Really? I had the airless on the lowest settings and i didnt lay It heavy at all... not the first time anyhow.. I know the thinner the better on that stuff. But when I sprayed 2nd time I went a lil slower. The dry time is 4 hours and I gave it 2 days before second coat..

Damn.. what if there was water in the hose?? Or got mixed in the sealer?

But still that doesn't make sense because I bought a brand new can the 2nd time..and cleaned the rig myself w laquer thinner after the first time.
 

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it may be your technique..the tip or pressure. Possibly look at what your thinning the sealer with. what type of base is it?

lacquer thinner to thin may not be a good choice. it evaporates quicky and may actually contaminate the finish.

start there then look at other things.

personally I would tell you to spread the finish with a synthetic T Bar applicator..use the appropriate solvent for thinning, use it sparingly and then keep ventilation minimal.. Just enough o allow fumes to gas off..

I cant say I worked with the finish you are using but all finishes have the same types of issues so this is just one in the same as the rest.

its called Orange peel..all finishes do it and all due the same reasons.

heavy application/ flow rate..excess air..drying to quick or minor contamination. rollers do it...and lastly over working the finish..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just wanted to let you guys know I figured out what the prob was on the floor. I took into consideration what each of you said and made alterations to my rig, my technique my product my application and nothing changed the result..so by process of elimination, the only thing left it could be was the grinding.

I only ran the grinder w the metal bits. I should have then taken it up to the 400s w ceramics. I got down real close to the floor and noticed its not so much an orange peel because of an operator or product error, it just looks like op because the metals kick up little rocks and pit the floor.

I knew I was supposed to polish up more.. I just didn't know why.. it never ceases to amaze me how smooth those metals get the floor..but I never stuck my face that close to really look either.. so..now we know..

And the fix? Sanded down what I had and sprayed again.. the first 2 coats served to fill the holes and then it went on smooth.

ForumRunner_20131107_013221.jpg
 
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