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Undermount sinks

7148 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Kowboy
Is any one familiar with Sinkits Sink Clamps?

Customer has a granite counter top with an single bowl SS sink mounted from underneath. The sink was originally installed with a bead of silicone around the edge and clamps that were glue to the underside of the counter top. The glue is failing and the clamps are falling along with the sink.

I tried cleaning the clamps and epoxying them back to the counter top. I was only ably to get one attached. But made a mess as the epoxy want very viscous.

Removing the top is NOT an option at this point.
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I get this call all the time. I've remounted at least 25 sinks if I've done one. Without question, the best product is the Hercules Universal Sink Harness.

Remove the sink and scrape/abrade the caulk off the sink flange. Progressively finer grits will make it look like new. If you want to make this a one-man job, after mounting the wires to the cabinets, place (2) 2x4's across the sink opening, run a bar clamp through them and through the sink drain holes, and pull it snug. Check the wire length and when you're happy, lower the sink, apply silicone to the flange, tighten, and spray the squeeze-out with Windex and wipe up the globs with a paper towel. Check your reveals. Tighten the HUSH, remove the clamps and you're done.

I thought this was the most stupid and hillbilly invention I'd ever seen, then I used one:

These work great, but cost seven times as much and don't turn your sink into a 10" deep steel truss:

All undermount sinks must be mechanically fastened, no exceptions. Silicone caulk between the flange and deck bottom functions as a gasket only.
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The only thing worse than a failing sink is a leaker. If the top was "rodded" with steel instead of stainless steel or fiberglas and embedded with polyester instead of epoxy, the sink flange dumps water that penetrates the polyester and rusts the rod. There isn't a stone on earth that can stand up to the expansive effects of oxidation:
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