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Tyvek drainwrap or 30# felt behind cedar

22531 Views 20 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Big Dog Dan
I just dont know whats the best choice here, after reading the whole houses rotting because of housewrap thread and reading loneframer's reasons im leaning towards the felt. I found on western red cedar lumber website they specifically say tyvek drainwrap. Most stuff around here is vinyl, its our first full cedar job, hoping someone who does more of it can steer me straight. ;)
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felt for red cedar.
I just dont know whats the best choice here, after reading the whole houses rotting because of housewrap thread and reading loneframer's reasons im leaning towards the felt. I found on western red cedar lumber website they specifically say tyvek drainwrap. Most stuff around here is vinyl, its our first full cedar job, hoping someone who does more of it can steer me straight. ;)
"Cedar breather". Kinda looks like cobra vent, but thinner and in 3' rolls. Lets air pass behind it.
cedar breather is for roofs ,homeslicker for walls:thumbsup:

is this a new house?if it is do the prints tell you what to use?
"Cedar breather". Kinda looks like cobra vent, but thinner and in 3' rolls. Lets air pass behind it.
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I went to an Energy seminar in Duluth and the scientist speaking said house wraps lose their effectiveness in minutes when touching cedar?

They had done experiments on the house wraps and the results convinced me to stay away. Too many issues after controlled testing. None of the house wraps tested better than felt paper.
This was 2 years ago.
Ah yeah the prints...the set of prints we got provided was just enough to satisfy the building inspector. Consisted of cross section of wall, foundation and footer. Things are extremely lax around here, the building inspector took his $1700 dollars for permit and fees, he came to check the footer as we were pouring it. Asked him when do you want us to call you back. He said he'll stop sometime. Since we've poured the floor, framed and roofed it and havent seen or heard from him. Maybe he just knows we arent gonna cluster:censored: and hack it in, we have a pretty good working relationship with him. Only time hes gigged us on anything had a big commercial job goin on where we were subs, GC had his electrician and plumbers from 4 hours away and plumber had sink 1/4" to low. Have a feeling he was cranked cuz the GC didnt pull a permit so it was a show of power. But regardless of our lax building inspector i want my jobs to last for the long haul and seeing how the majority of cedar we do is patch jobs i wanna make sure i get it right from the start.
i was just wondering,on most prints i see there's usually a detail,or it might be in the ''boiler plate''
I'd do the thirty pound felt with home slicker. Having a drainage plane (rain screen, air space, etc.) behind the shingles will really help out there life span. I have a friend who I believe has used corrugated plastic behind siding. I think those crates that are similar in size to a recycling bin that the postal service uses... That is the same type of material he has used. Don't know how exactly it holds up in the long run. I'll ask him if I get a chance. I think he said he bought it in 4x8 sheets, so putting it up didn't take too long.
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I guess the thing thats holding me back on felt is the siding and interior work was an addon so its likely we're gonna leave the exterior for 6-8 weeks and im afraid of how the felt will keep things protected.
As I recall it is the Tannins in the cedar that does this - preprime & 1 coat paint / stain it on all sides before installing - which also helps extend the life of the siding
I went to an Energy seminar in Duluth and the scientist speaking said house wraps lose their effectiveness in minutes when touching cedar?

They had done experiments on the house wraps and the results convinced me to stay away. Too many issues after controlled testing. None of the house wraps tested better than felt paper.
This was 2 years ago.
if you use the home slicker,or the combo product WWW posted
the cedar wont touch the house wrap

from what i understand the drain wrap helps water drain from the back of the cladding but dosnt take the place of a rainscreen
I like #30 felt. Although I don't like to leave it exposed for 2 months, I'd still rather use felt than another housewrap.
Lone, what is the first pic?


If it's cedar lap siding
back priming is key whatever
you hang it over.
Felt works for me.
If it's shakes, they seem to do well
over felt with no other prep,
provided they are being stained.
I just left a house done that way
@ 80 years ago, and they seem
pretty good in the short term. :whistling
That is Homeslicker over #30 felt. The wall finish is predipped cedar shakes from Canada. (pic 1)I've done shakes over felt in the past with no problems. Although they were also predipped. (pic 2) Did one job over Tyvek in 1992, still "looks" great from the outside.:whistling(pic 3) We were subbing from the GC and these were his specs.
Lone, what is the first pic?


If it's cedar lap siding
back priming is key whatever
you hang it over.
Felt works for me.
If it's shakes, they seem to do well
over felt with no other prep,
provided they are being stained.
I just left a house done that way
@ 80 years ago, and they seem
pretty good in the short term. :whistling
cedar car port

Can anyone advise me on what to use under cedar shakes for a car port?
Looking at this thread, I am not sure about using a house wrap. The car port is 2x6 framed like a garage (two open 16' doorways) northeast conditions.
North East Kansas? Are you by the ocean, in the mountains?

My suggestion no matter where your at is to preprime & paint or stain them - the rest is up to you, I have had no problems with Tyvek where I am at
I am a fan of tarpaper also. I like that typar stuff. Never seen it nor have I seen that "slicker" stuff is really nice looking! :thumbsup:
Thanks guys
I will preprime.
I was concerned with moisture that can enter the car port during winter here in
the Mountains.
However I will suggest doors as an option. They can always be left open:thumbsup:
It's mostly easier to help
if we know where you are.......
Thanks guys
I will preprime.
I was concerned with moisture that can enter the car port during winter here in
the Mountains.
However I will suggest doors as an option. They can always be left open:thumbsup:
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