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windows & siding
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I have an attatched garage on my own home (1969 ranch) and I'm thinking about annexing half of it as living space. What would this require in terms of foundation, and building the floor/wall structure. I realize it will need to meet the fire codes etc. sharing a wall with the garage, I'm primarily uncertain as what to do with the floor structure. As it sits, the garage floor is a slab with some cracking, that sits about 8" lower than the floor of the house.
 

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Contractor
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sounds like about 8" of flooring is needed! building a new partition wall in the garage and having new floor joists bearing on this partition wouldn't be ok-slab isn't load bearing. you could build a partition wall though (w/ FR). PT sleepers w/ the weight of new 2x6 spf joists to bring the level of the floor up should be ok-although I would be concerned there would be movement (noise) at some point unless you are careful.
 

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Ask more specific questions, 5/8th rock for your partition walls, build up floor as needed, acq only if contacting cement. GMOD.
 

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Thom
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Local codes vary so check with local authorities. He we would:

* construct foundation and stemwall at front (garage door area, saw cut existing slab)
* construct foundation and stemwall at partition ( saw cut existing slab)
* frame, to existing framing (door headder at front, ceiling joists partition).
* install windows with vent and light space to meet code
* install ducting to hvac system, insure adequate capacity.
* add code minimum wiring for receptacles and lighting.
* Frame up floor to new floor grade
* sheetrock room with 1/2", garage side with 5/8, if the garage ceiling is not rocked with 5/8 then continue garage side 5/8 to roof deck.
* if there is any fuel fired appliances in the garage (water heater, furnace, ??) insure there is proper combustion air.

The deal is, the garage floor must be below the framed partition adjacent to it. This requires a stemwall to create a curb to sit the frame on. A garage floor counts as grade and your framing must be 6" above grade.
 

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It is - I think its 6".

I'm not sure about the grade part or if its about fumes, combustible liquids or just the possibility of driving rain or snow from an entered vehicle. I'd have to look it up. We went over it the NC Cont Prep Course.
 

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Designer/Contractor
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Remember the rule for emergency egress to a public space; check this but basically it's the window sill has to be within 44" of the finish floor, 5.0 s.f. net clear open for 1st floor, 5.7 above that, 24" net clear openable height, 20" net clear openable width.
 

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establish the plane of the existing garage floor relative to finished floor adjoining at the house. check clearances head / foot and if it works, run the plate for the demising wall in the garage and snap the level plane lines. level to the snap and check w/mason for min course thickness. make-up the difference by ripping pt sleepers 16" o.c.

before doing anything, check w/town inspector on whether a variance from building code is required and if so, whether he/she will grant. around here current code is two risers or 14" from finished floor house adjoining to finished floor garage.
 
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