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You didn't notice the foundation wasn't to spec when you framed the building? Would have been pretty easy to move one side in 2" at that time.

 

^^THIS^^
He didn't say he framed it yet, so maybe this option would work. I hate when someone can't do their job correctly, and expect me to fix it.
Is this a monolithic concrete pour, or a block foundation with concrete inside the block? I would address the problem with them. At the least I would let them know how much this screwed me up. Pretty sad when someone can't read a tape measure.

 

You can get truss engineering to certify that bearing at 1 ¾” or more is okay.
If they approve, carry on.

or

rip 2x6’s down to 4 1/2 inches and add them to your double top plate, flushed the inside. This might be enough to allow your tails to clear the actual 2 x 6 plates below.

AND

Ask over at DIY site

Those guys will have lots of ideas to try.

 

Notching the tails will take longer than adding the plate, and I'd make the plate a 2x4 instead of plywood

 

Ya, great advice. Nothing like placing a truss engineered for 2X6 wall on a 2X4 top plate. Great work.

 

Long as you plan on using a large base board after you add a 1 1/2" strip of extra s/r to your walls add the extra 2x4 plate. Another option I've seen used before when I framed track homes, Snap your lines 1" in on each side and put the walls at 40' then have the concrete contractor send out a guy with a chipping hammer to whittle away the excess allowing the underpinner to cover up the screw up.

 

Just lean the walls in an inch toward the top. Nobody frames plumb and true anymore, it will blend in with the track homes nearby.


j/k

 

Ya ever try to brick veneer a two story custom house where the first story leans out 3/4"...ALL the way around...

The best part is, you get to the second floor floor system and then it leans back in 5/8" +/-.

And then have the homeowner/gc tell you later how the carpenter was complaining how bad the foundation was...

Just to go back and remeasure for your own sanity and find it's right where you meant to put it ..

🙄🙄

 

Place one wall to the end of the foundation.
The other side will be 2" short and leave 2" of the foundation "sticking out".
Pad the wall that ended up short with 2X4 to make up the difference before siding or exterior coverings.

 

Another option is to place the exterior sheathing even with the foundation edge and not having it overlap.
You gain 1/2" on both sides so there is 1" of it already.
If the walls are 10' or more, you could just eat the other 1/2" per side by leaning the walls in 1/2" on both sides, you would never notice it.

 

I think there will be a few people that will notice that even without the use of a level.

 

Frame at 40' leaving 1" on either side and come up with a framing and finishing detail that looks nice to push the trim out that extra inch. Covering an inch isn't that much to deal with. Not like they did it a foot over.

But this is the concrete companies issue really. You speced 40 feet and they didn't give that to you. First I'd ask them what they plan on doing about it.

 

The bottom of the tails will hit the outer top edge of the plates....1 ½" chisel should be about right.

 

Seems like the additional top plate option is the easiest. That gets you more or less a 3.5" bearing surface in a sense.

 

Notch top plate. It's 2x6, so plenty left for load. Do notch before top plating wall.

 

Just slap a narrow top plate on it. If your inspector allows or get your engineer to OK it.

I couldn't see spending the time to chisel out the notches, or wasting time cutting birds mouths.

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Is the building, or your measurements from exterior of sheething or studs?

I'd probably just add a 2x4 top plate and call it good. Talk to the truss engineer to verify your trusses can handle reduced bearing on top plate.

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Have you tried a truss stretcher?

 

I haven't heard that mentioned in years I have a brick stretcher, will that work? It's the Binford 7100 model.

Why not just frame it at 40' and add a 5/4 water table? Who the hell misses a foundation by 2 inches?

Crappy contractors. The sad part is we have to compete with these morons....at least on price.

 

Is this more of your humor? You might add a smiley face so I know, it's so hard to tell
Do you still stick to your original advice....run your walls out of plumb to hide someone's mistake? Or was that humor also.....I can't keep up.

No humor at all. Quality contractors are not concerned by or competing with crappy ones. In fact we need crappy contractors, that is how we retain our value. If we all were great contractors than our value would be diminished. The you's of the industry bring the me's of the industry our value.
I absolutely stick to my original advice.
Your inexperience is showing here.
Most lumber 10' or longer has a crown larger than 1/2". What is checked as plumb on one section of a wall can easily be 1/2" out of plumb 12 inches away.
I will guarantee that on a 10' wall that you call level I will find areas that are more than 1/2" out of plumb over the 10' run. It is not uncommon to find the lower half of the wall plumb and the upper half of the wall slightly out of plumb.
You think you can detect something that out of plumb by .05 inch per foot with the naked eye? Silly boy.
You obviously are not familiar with the standards of construction used to settle disputes.
Try not paying someone because the 10' or greater wall is out of plumb by 1/2" or less. Good luck with that.
It's a workshop wall not a Bulgarian clock.

 

No humor at all. Quality contractors are not concerned by or competing with crappy ones. In fact we need crappy contractors, that is how we retain our value. If we all were great contractors than our value would be diminished. The you's of the industry bring the me's of the industry our value.
I absolutely stick to my original advice.
Your inexperience is showing here.
Most lumber 10' or longer has a crown larger than 1/2". What is checked as plumb on one section of a wall can easily be 1/2" out of plumb 12 inches away.
I will guarantee that on a 10' wall that you call level I will find areas that are more than 1/2" out of plumb over the 10' run. It is not uncommon to find the lower half of the wall plumb and the upper half of the wall slightly out of plumb.
You think you can detect something that out of plumb by .05 inch per foot with the naked eye? Silly boy.
You obviously are not familiar with the standards of construction used to settle disputes.
Try not paying someone because the 10' or greater wall is out of plumb by 1/2" or less. Good luck with that.
It's a workshop wall not a Bulgarian clock.

Condescending much? You'll never convince me or any quality contractor that it's ok to put up a wall 1/2" out of plumb. I know the industry standards, they are pitiful....you're probably MUCH better prepared to advise someone on the limits of those standards and the dispute process. Try convincing a homeowner that you're going to frame up his wall 1/2" out of plumb because the industry standards says that's ok. If you're buying bent lumber for your projects, go to a better lumberyard. If that wall gets a masonry veneer, I can hide the carpenter's (you) mistake. I will hang the masonry 1/2" farther off the brick ledge, but I'll let the homeowner or contractor know that not the best way of fixing the mistake. If guys like me weren't fixing your mistakes, the job would go much smoother. Is "it's a workshop, not a Bulgarian clock" on your business cards?

 

Why not just frame it at 40' and add a 5/4 water table? Who the hell misses a foundation by 2 inches?

 

What’s interesting is … this is the 3rd forum he has posted the same question.

 

I always like to hear the outcome of someone's predicament. It's a bummer when they show up, ask an interesting question, then never come back to discuss. There are some interesting solutions though.

 

Except you don't plumb a wall at the studs, you plumb it plate to plate.

 

Oh, I didn't know that. Thanks.

 

I'm sure he's dead serious. Running your price into the ground to keep up with someone who does inferior work is just a good way to go out of business. You set yourself apart by doing good work and charge appropriately for it. And you need to learn to say no. If you aren't going to make money on a job then why do it? (there are reasons, keep your guys busy etc)

 

It looks like Joe FairPlay doesn't play fair, he making friends by the hour.
Are you now or previously a building inspector?

 

It looks like Joe FairPlay doesn't play fair, he making friends by the hour.
Are you now or previously a building inspector?

I guess you are too stupid to know what CBC, RBC and RBI means.
Yes, I am a licensed inspector.

 

He just hates me because I'm not impressed with his ability to pass open book tests

 

I do not hate you A&E nor am I concerned with your level of impressed.
I simply disregard most of your nonsense because I have burned through 100's of guys like you.
They make excuses for not being licensed when the reality is they just could not hack being the one responsible for the entire operation.
Guys like you say things like, "I am sick of not being paid what I am worth."
Guys like me know the reality is that in this industry, everyone gets paid exactly what they are worth and in many cases are overpaid.
I am sure the other real contractors would agree that they have rarely if ever run into a worker in the construction industry that is not paid what they are worth. The worker simply has an inflated view of their value and an inability to recognize or admit their shortcomings.
Over the last ten years there has been a massive shortage of labor, so it has only gotten worse not better. In this environment I assure you, you are getting exactly what you are worth, it's just you that can't face the reality that you are not worth as much as your inflated ego has convinced yourself of.
It's just a hard truth, no hard feelings.

 

I figure that plumb walls (plate to plate) would stand the test of time better than fudging them, even if the eye can't see it. And this is for a shop. Would an inspector fail what appears to be a triple plate from within? Serious question from someone without all the certifications.

 

Minimum required by code is double top.
Would not care if you had 10 as long as they are nailed properly at each layer.

 

Is it common to order trusses before the foundation is poured? I can count on one hand the number of times I've used them, and don't recall ordering trusses before I had a foundation to build on.

 

With wait times increasing up to 4 months, the trusses can be ordered as soon as the contract is signed, the deposit is made and the permit is issued.
I usually wait until the surveyor sets the foundation corners, to ensure there would be no need to make major alterations.
It's not like it takes them 3 or months months to build, they are processed in a day or two.
You just sit in the que waiting, so you have plenty of time to work with the engineer to make some changes if you discover the need or make an upgrade. Plenty of lag time while waiting to massage things.
At worse, you cancel the order before it hits production, in extreme cases of uh oh.
But yes, you want to get in the line as soon as practical or you will be sitting and waiting two months for trusses.

 

All of the op's issues seem so odd to me as I've not seen a truss without a raised heel in years.
But if I had to pick one option to go with, I'd say the 2x4 plate on top of the 2x6 plate would be the simplest option.

 

I agree. I'm having such a hard time understanding that this is even a problem.

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