Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

Truss Uplift

12K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  Joasis  
#1 · (Edited)
I would like to understand more of what is causing a problem for a friend and hopefully refer him to a local person who can fix it.

I have performed unrelated service work at this home quarterly for a few years now. There is a considerable GAP at the ceiling the FULL LENGTH OF THE HOUSE down the middle which seems to INCREASE or DECREASE relative to the season. Current pictures were taken this February with temperatures in the mid 40's.

Both past and current owner's have had two different foundation firm's inspect the foundation. I have also been in the crawlspace inspecting for termites and it doesn't look too bad. Not perfect, but not damp, and floor joists seem adequate, etc. According to the current owner, the latest firm, from Nashville, used lasers and stated the floor was out of level at most only an inch, and that subfloor work could not guarantee to fix the problem. They suggested truss uplift may be the problem.

I noted that the attic looks like it may have had a humidity or excess heat problem in years past. I suggested he have a ridge vent installed either now or at reroof. It probably wouldn't hurt for him to have an air leakage check as some ducts are in the ceiling and might be changing dewpoint, etc.

Brightest photos of the trusses are from in the garage. I did not go "into" the attic beyond peeking through the access door, but if future probing is sought I will and can provide more pictures.

I remember a thread on here where a guy had his walls falling out at the top and slowly used come-alongs to bring them back in before permanently adding additional bracing. Now the outside walls do not visually look out of plumb, I'm just thinking that maybe cable or all-thread tensioning of the trusses in the right places may be able to adjust this, and then additional plywood plates added to hold the position. If it is truss uplift, I'm thinking fastening the ceiling better to the wall top plates would tend to just cause more problems, like pulling loose at the floorline, more cracking, etc.

Another thought is the problem is causes by drywall technique when the home was built, but I tend to think not as the problem is the full length of the house.

If you can educate me about this, I'll pass it on to my friend and try to refer him to a good person locally to correct it.
 

Attachments

#2 ·
Seeing as this changes with seasons, I'm going with truss plate seperation also.

The way this is resolved during the intial build is a clip is installd on the top plate of the wall, drywall is screwed to this clip instead of the truss along the mid span walls. The first ceiling screw into the truss is 2-3' from the wall. With this method of install the truss is free to float above the drywall.

I've seen trusses move enough to pull the nails out of the top plate. Last truss install I saw, they used Simpson truss clips along the mid span wall. The clip was nailed only to the wall plates. The truss floated up and down in the clip.

Tom
 
#3 ·
Thanks Tom, yes, I saw advice about the clips, and also about attaching molding to the ceiling and let it float up and down against the wall.

I was trying to think of a way to prevent the bottom cord from bowing up with resisting force. Probably would cause some other problem.
 
#4 ·
Basically it's from a change in moisture content between top and bottom truss cords. If the bottom cord goes to lower moisture content (cord shrinks), you get lift. If the top cord increases moisture content (cord grows), you get lift. As bad as what you are showing, I'd bet you got both going on.
Around here, it used to be that all trusses were made of highest stress rated yellow pine. Now they are all lightweight, not as strong spruce. It solves multiple problems, not the least of which is less truss lift.
 
#5 ·
I would point in a different direction first for you to begin this journey. the first picture of shows cracking at the door tops and the casing angle looks off.

you may have load or deflection issues, so the kitchen has settled and the trusses stayed put. It may also be that only the middle of the house settled, not the outside walls. If the outer walls had also settled, the separation from the crown molding and ceiling wouldn't have been as prevalent.

can you get into the basement/crawl space and look for issues? as you're walking around upstairs, look for tell's, like the separating casing in a doorway or cracks like what you see in the first picture. The framing can only move so much before the sheetrock cracks.
 
#6 ·
I agree with this.

I have framed a lot of homes in 35 years, and used a lot of trusses. We have never used the truss clips and have had almost zero issues. I am well versed in the truss uplift phenomenon, and seen it in many homes, but not convinced of the exact practices or solutions. We have bucked the trend and have always toe nail our trusses down at the mid point, even though we have been told not to. For whatever reason, it has worked well for us.
 
#7 · (Edited)
The cracking is not limited to the kitchen on the garage end of the house, but includes the full middle length of the home, including the far bedrooms. A foundation company used lasers and told the owner the middle of the house floor was only off by maybe an inch. They did not believe foundation work would solve the problem, or at least did not guarantee it would. I have been in the crawlspace and saw no cracking of the block joints nor weak joists, etc. Roofline looks straight. Tannins or color of trusses and decking look like excessive heat and/or moisture in the past. I have personally seen the gaps vary with the seasons as I have visited the account. It is even more pronounced or dramatic than what the picture shows.
 
#8 ·
I told him last year that if it were my house I would build and fasten a fixed measuring stick hanging from the center of the truss and hanging plumb. Maybe make it out of a stick of cut aluminum or something with a low expansion/contraction rate, and see what the actual value of deflection was of the truss over a couple of seasons. This phenomena intrigues me more than anything. Probably a waste of my mental energy.
 
#9 ·
The bottom cord is covered by insulation, which will tend to keep bottom cord at the same moisture content as the living area. If the top to bottom change in length is 1/4", for what ever reason, I would expect about 3/4 lift at center, 1/4" isn't a huge amount of change over about 28' or so. This is based on 6/12 slope, & 28' span. It could also be -1/8 at bottom, & + 1/8 at top, which would net a 1/4" change.
 
#13 ·
We have seen this a lot in our area, and fixing the issue has been a problem as well. What we now know that works effectively is to spray foam the underside of the attic, making it a conditioned space, and ending ventilation. Then the trusses will be stable, and no more lift...unless there is a foundation problem, but what I see is simply up-lift.

Not everyone likes making a roof into a cold deck, but it is working in many regions of the country, and I do it in all my builds now.