This was supposed to be simple and fast, and I need to head to the beach tomorrow. Replacing a 25 X 22 composite kitchen top-mount sink on granite. Changing to a Kohler 25 x 22 stainless drop-in. The granite seam cut bisects the sink opening. Anyway, the existing cut turned out to be biggest trapezoidal, too-narrow-for-clips hack job of a cut, which explains why they never used them in the first place. If I tent/isolate this kitchen and grind it, how crack-prone is trimming back the areas behind and in front of the sink cut? (I need space for clips to pull this SS sink down snug.) Thanks much.
trimming installed granite
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Diamond blade on the grinder with a vac attachment and some zip poles.
No gussets. In fact, the joints are f'd up (open by 1/16" in the back, hairline in the front).
Not for nothing Rob, but it doesn't sound like dust control and what to use to cut it is his biggest issue.MarkJames said:
Granite supplier I use takes the sink, or pulls the template out of their inventory.
You could do it, but why take the chance.
They screwed it up, let them fix it.
This is a reveal from a pulled sink that was installed 10 years ago or whenever.
Ray Charles would have done a better job by 1000 %. This was a free-hand butcher job.
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I was just reassuring him that his method would work. Just go slow and and take your time.
As for the risk, contract contract contract along with communication communication communication. My granite guy will adjust an opening on an existing install, but they won't guarantee the slab won't crack and will charge to fix it if it does. The only exception is if it's his work. There is no real way to know if it will crack or not.
Support both sides of the countertop, from underneath, within the confines of the sink base with 2x4's and stretchers down to the floor of the cabinet. (faucet and belly).
Dust protection and equipment as Rob described;
Make the cut.
There is still not a 100% guarantee that the slab will not crack, even with these precautions.
Dust protection and equipment as Rob described;
Make the cut.
There is still not a 100% guarantee that the slab will not crack, even with these precautions.
That's why I stopped my week today. Now I only have a couple hours tomorrow, instead of working Friday. As to your question - Tell them you need to consult with your 'Consultant' and you'll see them Monday :laughing:. Or just drop it in and silicone it with a similar color. Sorry for the smart-azz comments, but beach time on the 4th is more important, IMO.
And I'm drinking beer and painting a bathroom in my house. I hate painting for free :laughing:
If you are saying you are just enlarging the hole to allow the clips to fit, as long as the blade direction on the grinder is down is down no problem. You are just making a 1/8-3/16 notch right? Top is 1 1/4" thick correct? Just dont go real close to the seam.
I just did same thing to get cooktop to fit a few months ago, I checked with my granite people first. The screws got in the way on the enclosure.
If you are saying the clips are too short and you are going to reduce the depth of the top, it may crack
How straight is the sink, if real far out, tightening that could crack it especially if not siliconed to cabinets well
I just did same thing to get cooktop to fit a few months ago, I checked with my granite people first. The screws got in the way on the enclosure.
If you are saying the clips are too short and you are going to reduce the depth of the top, it may crack
How straight is the sink, if real far out, tightening that could crack it especially if not siliconed to cabinets well
:thumbup:
:thumbup: :thumbup: Good thinking.
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If your worried about the granite then don't do it. Glue the sink in with silicon and wedge it down from the ceiling with battens until its cured. Done it many times when fitting cheapo sink tops with crappy clips.
Just to update. The grinder made easy work of it. The trick was not to cut, but actually to grind out the notch locations (3/4" x 1/4" each, or so). Had one chip-out, but it will be covered by the edge.
Dust containment was another matter since I forgot to bring poles. I rigged up a fairly effective one-man solution with vacuum:
drape .31 mil painter plastic over the counter, then tape to the backsplash, overlapping a couple feet each side. Next, pull it up and tape it to cabinet faces. Next, tape off the side edges to the counter. Drape the remainder over yourself (have enough to reach the floor). Now here's the trick: I ran my vac hose into the base cabinet (tape off the hose) and pushed the hose into an empty box (open top). That kept the air flow open without it grabbing the plastic. Worked fairly well.
Dust containment was another matter since I forgot to bring poles. I rigged up a fairly effective one-man solution with vacuum:
drape .31 mil painter plastic over the counter, then tape to the backsplash, overlapping a couple feet each side. Next, pull it up and tape it to cabinet faces. Next, tape off the side edges to the counter. Drape the remainder over yourself (have enough to reach the floor). Now here's the trick: I ran my vac hose into the base cabinet (tape off the hose) and pushed the hose into an empty box (open top). That kept the air flow open without it grabbing the plastic. Worked fairly well.
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