[TBFGhost]

So here I am at one of my jobs and the client asks me if there is anything I can do to cover up (trim out) the corner formed where the walls of the second story come down and meet the first story ceiling in her living room(see photo). The corner bead keeps cracking the joint compound in this area even though she has had it fixed over and over. So now she just wants to cover it up with something (read trim). So I starting thinking along the lines of an architrave, a basic one by built up with some nose and cove or something and topped off with a bed mold/cap, untill she stated she didn't want that b/c it becomes a dust collector.... So now I am left trying to figure out if there is anything I can do there that will not stand out like a sore thumb as a cover up......

Any ideas? :blink:

 

[BillD]

How about doing something with fake beams and columns. The stair nosing will present a problem but maybe you can make it work somehow.

Edit: never mind just re-read the dust collector part.

Bill

 

[WarnerConstInc.]

Cut out the sheet rock and use something 1/2" thick. Make it flush, no dust shelf.

 

[neolitic]

Cracking on the top?
Bottom?
Both?

 

[AustinDB]

how about fixing it correctly? rip out what's there, use metal bead and hot mix. Her statement of it's been fixed numerous times doesn't mean it was done correctly.

options: shingle or rake moulding is not very high. door stop (WM856) would be pretty low profile. I would lead toward the rake moulding and then cut the top back at an appropriate angle. the only non-dust gathering fix that comes to mind is duct tape-without UV rays hitting it, it's good for many years to come.

 

[TBFGhost]

Cracking on the top?
Bottom?
Both?

Both, the corner bead keeps revealing itself so to speak, and I thought about repairing it myself and doing just that, but I am just looking for other options....she is a neat freak and if i can avoid doing drywall work in the middle of her house where it is hard to seal off the work area I would rather do that.

 

[neolitic]

Could be that the corner bead
was never properly attached?
I've seen a lot that are only "tacked"
and will crack over and over
until they have enough nails in them.
If that's the case, nail it then
bed and tape both sides.

Also, if that is a floor system, there
could be movement either from shrinkage
across grain on a 2X10, or movement
of the joist if it is undersized.

 

[TBFGhost]

Could be that the corner bead
was never properly attached?
I've seen a lot that are only "tacked"
and will crack over and over
until they have enough nails in them.
If that's the case, nail it then
bed and tape both sides.

Also, if that is a floor system, there
could be movement either from shrinkage
across grain on a 2X10, or movement
of the joist if it is undersized.

It is a floor system and odds are it was just tacked on there. This is a development home and from working around it, they are VERY cheaply made,slammed up with the cheapest materials, labor and design....

 

[neolitic]

It is a floor system and odds are it was just tacked on there. This is a development home and from working around it, they are VERY cheaply made,slammed up with the cheapest materials, labor and design....

Had one similar (except that it was
cracking in the angles as well)
not so long ago.
Turned out the bearing wall was
dead center between joist with
no blocking, just kept pushing down
on the OSB decking.
She had three painters spackle and
repaint before I looked in the crawl.

 

[Plumber_Bill]

until they have enough nails in them.
If that's the case, nail it then
bed and tape both sides.

At my home I have a drywalled door opening, The depth of the opening is 18" It is between the old and new section of the home.

I continue to get a hairline crack at the edge of the corner bead.

Above neolitic says to bed & tape both sides.
Are you speaking of taping over the corner bead and back onto the drywall. But still leave the metal corner exposed?

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE !!!

 

[neolitic]

.........Are you speaking of taping over the corner bead and back onto the drywall. But still leave the metal corner exposed?

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE !!!

Yup.