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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm working on a proposal right now for a stair replacement for a front entrance. The client likes a clean look, and we are going to do a cedar railing, with nice cedar newels and a stainless cable infill kit instead of vertical balusters. The client wants trex for the treads to prevent slipping in winter.

Does anyone have an elegant solution for dealing with the cut edges? The treads will be around 12" deep including the over hang. I am thinking maybe miter the outer 1x6 to create a border. And maybe use cedar risers mitered to the skirt board.

Anyone have any other thoughts?
 

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General Contractor
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I'm working on a proposal right now for a stair replacement for a front entrance. The client likes a clean look, and we are going to do a cedar railing, with nice cedar newels and a stainless cable infill kit instead of vertical balusters. The client wants trex for the treads to prevent slipping in winter.

Does anyone have an elegant solution for dealing with the cut edges? The treads will be around 12" deep including the over hang. I am thinking maybe miter the outer 1x6 to create a border. And maybe use cedar risers mitered to the skirt board.

Anyone have any other thoughts?
You can do that or you can box them in on the sides using 1x12 Trex skirt board matching decking or in white.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Where at in the "burgh" ya at? And my 2 cents, if they don't want slipping in the winter, I would not use Trex!
I live in Garfield.

My supplier recommended trex. He said it's used a lot around pools. What would you suggest?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Polebarns, I'll probably end up doing that.

Tom, have you done that before with the treads? How does it look with the texture on the face?
 

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:eek:

I have yet to meet a synthetic that's less slippery than wood in winter. Whatever you use, if slipping is a major consideration, look into self-adhesive non-slip pads.
it's funny.. it's at the same time less slippery or more slippery depending on conditions..kinda hard to explain..:blink:
 

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Talking Head
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I used to miter the full outside board on the tread but, this year, I'm switching to a mitered return only. The full mitered board required a bunch of extra framing and waterproofing and could be a pain at post locations. With the return it will still look nice but I think it will take less time and materials.

I'm not a big fan of capping the ends with skirting as it makes clearing the snow a bit more difficult. Not a big deal though, I'm sure.
 

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Windwash
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You can do that or you can box them in on the sides using 1x12 Trex skirt board matching decking or in white.
If I'm understanding you correctly, 1x12 fascia board will not cover the side of the stringer and the ends of the stair treads. Needs a 12-14" wide board to cover.
 

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General Contractor
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If I'm understanding you correctly, 1x12 fascia board will not cover the side of the stringer and the ends of the stair treads. Needs a 12-14" wide board to cover.
Usually the stringer is 2x12 so 1x12" board will cover it.

Or picture frame the treads which is more work (but you charge more) when customer prefers to have open sides.
With that said, I always tell my customers when they request open side stairs, that we can do it both way, sides of tread boards will be exposed which is free or treads will be picture framed to give finished look all around, which will cost a little more.

Decks 20k and up picture frame is on everything,i.e decking and treads... when you do decks under 20k we give customer theirs options.

Good luck
 

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Box Builder
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I've done a jack miter with composite before where the nosing cap was a ripped piece fairly thin. What I didn't like about it was that the miter ends up tight, but the decking was all gapped. I like to keep things consistent and gap all cuts the same. Gluing and screwing composite is tough because it moves so much. Just make sure you frame accordingly so u have plenty of fastening. That being said, having a tight jack miter and gaping everything else isn't a bad way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've done a jack miter with composite before where the nosing cap was a ripped piece fairly thin. What I didn't like about it was that the miter ends up tight, but the decking was all gapped. I like to keep things consistent and gap all cuts the same. Gluing and screwing composite is tough because it moves so much. Just make sure you frame accordingly so u have plenty of fastening. That being said, having a tight jack miter and gaping everything else isn't a bad way to go.
Did you use a single board for the treads? Or two boards and jack miter each one? Do you have any photos of it?

I'm not really a fan of boxing in the stairs with 1x. The open look is a lot cleaner I think.
 

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Talking Head
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Did you use a single board for the treads? Or two boards and jack miter each one? Do you have any photos of it?

I'm not really a fan of boxing in the stairs with 1x. The open look is a lot cleaner I think.
If you're using two boards(which I think everyone does) then you don't need to do anything for the miter, whether it's a full miter or a jack miter. The outside piece covers the cut end of the inside piece.
 
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