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John Hyatt
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3,658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just from the way I install foundation for most of my decks I have to place a pt plate in the ground. With the micro pro garbage I have to use over here I am now coating the plate and most of the post with motor oil. Sometimes I get a sideways look from the Wallet doing this.

Any better ideas?? Thanks Guys JonMon
 

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Use pressure treated for ground contact.

Any wood laying the ground will have a shorter life than a post or deck board.
 

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John Hyatt
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3,658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You see Man....let me put this gentley.....mcq no longer has a sticker on it stating .40 it states ground contact from my lumber yard. The box stores are selling a much lower penatration around the 1 number with no warning or anyone telling anyone that the stuff is no better than normal framing lumber.

If you look hard enough for the info on micropro ground contact its for ground contact,not to be covered with dirt. Many tests exist showing mcq failing after 9 mo in the ground. Now what the double hell in a snake pit that means can realate only to money not logic.

Stick with creet dude it looks like you know a lot more about that trade.

Like I dont know about ground contact, or how wood reacts in the ground:rolleyes: ghessssssssssssssss.:stupid: J.
 

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You may want to look for PT wood stamped with CCA, ACA. (Chromated and ammoniacal copper arsenates)

Anything that really is approved for PWF (Preserved Wood Foundations).

Ask about that at your lumber yard, it would definitely be a special order. It is soaked longer than regular PT, so it gets deeper into the wood. If its good enough for a PWF than it should be good enough for a deck.

- Bill
 

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You've heard of the Jasco Homax products ? Google Jasco (Homax) Pressure Treated.

Looks like Ace Hardware / Superstore has them via online purchase. A few of the solvent base may be available somewhere but looks like mostly wb now.
 

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Curmudgeon
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11,706 Posts
You may want to look for PT wood stamped with CCA, ACA. (Chromated and ammoniacal copper arsenates)

Anything that really is approved for PWF (Preserved Wood Foundations).

Ask about that at your lumber yard, it would definitely be a special order. It is soaked longer than regular PT, so it gets deeper into the wood. If its good enough for a PWF than it should be good enough for a deck.

- Bill
Special order is the only way
we can get "foundation rated"
any more.
One yard 20 miles from me carries
ground contact 2X6X16 only.
(They can't even explain why just
the one dimension and one lenght:blink:)
Everything in every yard and box
is micro-pro now.
 
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Curmudgeon
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11,706 Posts
Just from the way I install foundation for most of my decks I have to place a pt plate in the ground. With the micro pro garbage I have to use over here I am now coating the plate and most of the post with motor oil. Sometimes I get a sideways look from the Wallet doing this.

Any better ideas?? Thanks Guys JonMon
I have always used Cuprinol
on all my cut ends, especially
heavy on post tops and
stringer cuts, etc.
Now I use more than ever,
in any place that gives me pause.
Look for "Cuprinol #10 Green
Wood Preservative
."
That's the best, and only.

You'll love it Jon.
The napthalene either gives
you a buzz or makes you hurl! :laughing:
Either way, you know it's
gotta be bad news for the bugs. :thumbsup:
 

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Design Build
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6,701 Posts
Wood railway ties. Creosote baby!!!

If it HAS to live in the ground - find some of those.

Next bet is like you said...find .40 or higher for ground contact or water immersion. I have seen wood pilings in lakes and the ocean. They do make stuff that makes the wood last.
 

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John Hyatt
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3,658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
We Fix( you have got to add more to your profile) I like the Jasco product and the copper content, but I dont much care for the $70 plus a qt.

Yo Neo, I can order cca .40/.60 from Huston and I might just do that the more pissed off I get with the green mafia. But money is money. The Cuprinol at $32 a gal might just do it. Used Harley oil is still looking good not real woried about the Expanded Poo Altered guys. Not real sure I would notice the buzz,home grown/tecate/Joe crow and 1200 Sporster fumes being regular with me.

Guys you got to remember I work in the land of the Red Man,The Sooners( actually admited felons) the Good ol Boy network, well you get the idea.The only rule over here is the same as the Milatry>>dont get caught<< everything else is fair game.

So as a way to explain to the Wina chester... my compatition still puts posts ,sometimes utilty cedar,in the ground with creet or not,get grade and nail the main joists to the posts so all the bearing is on the fasteners. really stupid right? Right. So the JonMon comes on down from Or e gon with the post and beam framing we all used for Houses. I just took that to decks with a couple little twistes. I get solid creet blocks from a local 4''x 16'' x8'' dig them in fasten a pt plate with the hilti,frame up everything with 2x6.

I can here it now, so dont even start, My system has worked for 20 years or so. Most of the land around here is pretty flat,for jobs on any kinda grade I pour creet and use the zmax. Anyway, 2x6 posts up to 2x6 primarys on 6' centers/cleat the joint,joist in on 16'' centers. No span is bigger than 6'. I really feel for you guys that have to go down like 4' or so it must suck to be you. Over here the dig in is around 16''. Everything is done with a nail gun including the conection to the plate. Joist hangers latley but in the past #20 galv pole barn nails that actually worked better I just changed to wow the Wallet and those litte palm nailers work so well.

Think about it...solid bearing on the creet block,no span more than 6',all 2x6 construstion. Pretty smart system with a long track record and a bunch of happy Wallets. Most of the ground in Cow Town works well with the hand square point spade but when I get into the red clay I have a Makita mini jack hammer.

All of this depends on geting down to solid soil, sometimes I have to get intovative with the system but I always find a way, Back filled above ground pool decks are an example.

Go Get Em Boys, and Thanks for the info. Jon Mon
 

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Premium Member
Retired deck builder
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5,792 Posts
I guess it's just easier for us to still get CCA treated lumber here cause the plant that makes the chemical is in Corpus Christi & we have a couple of treatment plants down on the coast. All the lumber yards on the coast still carry it for saltwater use & AWDS gets it here in a day.

Why can't your local lumberyard order it for you? They got to deal with the same wholesale yards that have the treatment plants that they do here.
 

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Curmudgeon
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11,706 Posts
Don't know Hyatt's deal,
but here, I special order
and it takes 2 weeks...
or whatever...then I'm stuck
with whatever shows up
no matter how warped or bowed.
If I over order to compensate,
no credits and no returns on
special orders.
If I'm short, two weeks delay......
 

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Premium Member
Retired deck builder
Joined
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5,792 Posts
I know the special ordering deal sucks, especially if it's yellow pine, treated or otherwise.

BTW John, I've heard used motor oil does work as a preservative for wood. One of my deck building buds used it on his shop floor, 1x6 T&G pine.
 

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John Hyatt
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3,658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Neo , now thats what Im talking about!!! I wont even ask why they dont treat regular framing lumber we use that way pretty sure I know.

Thanks my Man!!! J.
 

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Curmudgeon
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11,706 Posts
Neo , now thats what Im talking about!!! I wont even ask why they dont treat regular framing lumber we use that way pretty sure I know.

Thanks my Man!!! J.
Glad to tip one of
the white hat guys. :thumbsup::laughing:
 
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