[Hat City]

Hi, I have a bit of a noobish framing question. I'm about to install a sill plate on a cement stem wall, the sill plate is (2) 2x10's thick, one nailed on top of the other to make it a 4x10 sill plate. The bottom 2x10 is definitely going to be treated, but I'm wondering if I can get away with leaving the top 2x10 untreated, since it's not in direct contact with the cement?

 

[kiteman]

Sure.

 

[jlsconstruction]

That's how we do it, but not to be cheap. Because we set the sill then galvi nail an SPF 2x to it so we can do everything else with common nails.


Why are you using 2x10s?

 

[tenon0774]

We have a garage coming up where the homeowner set the J-anchors too high so we'll have to do a double mud sill. That and it will give us a chance to level the block wall that the framing will be sitting on.

X2 what JLS said.

 

[FullerFramer]

We have a garage coming up where the homeowner set the J-anchors too high so we'll have to do a double mud sill. That and it will give us a chance to level the block wall that the framing will be sitting on.

X2 what JLS said.

Too high meaning the bottom of the threads on the bolts are higher than 1 1/2" off the concrete?

 

[tenon0774]

Too high meaning the bottom of the threads on the bolts are higher than 1 1/2" off the concrete?

Exactly what I mean.

 

[dielectricunion]

What about cutting them to the proper length?

 

[jlsconstruction]

What about cutting them to the proper length?

Then what? Re thread them lower?

 

[tenon0774]

Then what? Re thread them lower?

Actually, that's not a bad idea.

Cut the threads lower with a die.

Hmm.

Thanks guys.

We're still gonna double sill to level the block wall.

 

[dielectricunion]

I wasnt thinking about the fact that the thread doesnt normally extend for 2+ inches. Tapping/rethreading might be kind of a pain, but if theres enough thread, I'd definitely trim it over doubling up.

At my house, I had to remove the top course of foundation block and trim it so my new sill and rim would level with new girder. That was a pain in Azzz. Makes new construction sound desirable.

 

[tenon0774]

I wasnt thinking about the fact that the thread doesnt normally extend for 2+ inches. Tapping/rethreading might be kind of a pain, but if theres enough thread, I'd definitely trim it over doubling up.

At my house, I had to remove the top course of foundation block and trim it so my new sill and rim would level with new girder. That was a pain in Azzz. Makes new construction sound desirable.

Oh no, it does extend for about 2-2 1/2" from the top down.

What I'm saying is, the threading stops 3-4 inches from the top of the concrete block:

Cause some dumb a$$, set them.

The better question is, for the bolts that are too high, is the "J" part of the bolt set low enough in the grouted block to be effective "per code".

I'll do some research on this and if my fears are realized, we may end up cutting the bolts that are too high and setting our own in the adjacent cell or block.

 

[dielectricunion]

Oh no, it does extend for about 2-2 1/2" from the top down. What I'm saying is, the threading stops 3-4 inches from the top of the concrete block: Cause some dumb a$$, set them. The better question is, for the bolts that are too high, is the "J" part of the bolt set low enough in the grouted block to be effective "per code". I'll do some research on this and if my fears are realized, we may end up cutting the bolts that are too high and setting our own in the adjacent cell or block.

Digging out and resetting could make for a real fun time

 

[tenon0774]

Digging out and resetting could make for a real fun time

Not talking about digging the existing out.

Cutting the existing "high" and setting new ones beside the old high ones.

 

[jb4211]

But, what about just cutting the "J" bolts flush and install new threaded rod with anchoring cement?

If you need to adjust the bolts, that is...

 

[tenon0774]

But, what about just cutting the "J" bolts flush and install new threaded rod with anchoring cement?

If you need to adjust the bolts, that is...

That's what I thought I just said.

Sorry, that's not what I said.

All thread is not a j anchor.

Not rated for "uplift".

 

[Jaws]

Oh no, it does extend for about 2-2 1/2" from the top down.

What I'm saying is, the threading stops 3-4 inches from the top of the concrete block:

Cause some dumb a$$, set them.

The better question is, for the bolts that are too high, is the "J" part of the bolt set low enough in the grouted block to be effective "per code".

I'll do some research on this and if my fears are realized, we may end up cutting the bolts that are too high and setting our own in the adjacent cell or block.

The 7" embedment causes 10" bolts, but cut the SOBs off flush and hammer drill for 3/4 x 10" bolts.

 

[Jaws]

That's how we do it, but not to be cheap. Because we set the sill then galvi nail an SPF 2x to it so we can do everything else with common nails.


Why are you using 2x10s?

Size of structure? Third story, ht of walls? No telling.

Never framed bigger than 2x8 myself.

 

[Jaws]

OP, second plate does not need to be treated.

 

[tenon0774]

The 7" embedment causes 10" bolts, but cut the SOBs off flush and hammer drill for 3/4 x 10" bolts.

So what's your opinion on cutting the threads lower ( on the high J's ) with a die?

 

[jb4211]

That's what I thought I just said.

Sorry, that's not what I said.

All thread is not a j anchor.

Not rated for "uplift".

But, doesn't anchoring the rod in give you the necessary uplift rating? I'm not talking about a wedge anchor, I'm talking about using an anchoring epoxy. I know Simpson has one. It used to be two separate tubes. Now it's one tube with epoxy on one side and hardner on the other.