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I like Green things
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My trailer has more head room than yours.

I got a shore power plug from the RV place.
Ran some 3/4" grey pvc conduit, I have a double outlet, switch and 3 lights.

Nice and clean nothing to get snagged on, well except the light bulbs. I do have 7' head room inside though.
 

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Working
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Warner I was just going to pm you about yours. You mentioned it in another thread. Do you have any pics?
What fixtures did you use?The height is 6'5" inside.

What about some of those under cabinet lights the zenon bulb ones. Does any one have IMO on them?

Cole
 

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Contractor
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as the discussion has turned to lighting in the trailer, has anyone tried the new fluorescent work lights that look like 500w halogen work lights?
 

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Working
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
How would something like that do in the cold? I have a trouble light like some one posted earlier and it does not turn on in the cold.
 

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I like Green things
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Warner I was just going to pm you about yours. You mentioned it in another thread. Do you have any pics?
What fixtures did you use?The height is 6'5" inside.

What about some of those under cabinet lights the zenon bulb ones. Does any one have IMO on them?

Cole
I just used metal boxes and the keyless light fixture things.

I ran the conduit from the switch with outlets, up across the metal frame, installed a box, came out of that and ran my conduit off center a couple feet, used a T that has a cover for my middle light. That way I didn't have to have 2 12/2 wires inside the conduit.
 

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I have had great luck with high out put flouresents in my shop, they seem to work pretty good down to about zero. If you go that route make sure you get the bulb sleeve, in case you hit them they won't shatter all over the place. I also take some electrical tape & put a few raps around the bulbs & fixture.
 

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For power in my trailer, I mounted a power bar. Go to a trailer sales/parts store. They carry round boxes that you just drill ( i think 4" ) a hole through the side of your trailer and mount this 'cover'.

Then you can stick the end of the power cord out the side of the trailer, attatch to an extension cord to the house.

This way I cannot blow the customers breaker. If they aren't home and you blow the breaker, then what?

Then all power inside the trailer comes out of the power bar.

Hope I explained this ok.
 

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Scooter
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Cole82 had a good idea about not posting the trailer remodel pics on the post your setup section so it wouldn't clog up the threads. Thought I would post under this thread. Seems like a good fit.

We had some down time this week to insulate/vapor barrier the floor, walls, lid, and sheet it. We replaced the the ply that was on the walls with 1/2. We reused the ply on the lid. We decked the floor with 3/4. As we get some more down time we will do up the cabinets, shelving, paint, E-track etc.
 

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The Deck Guy
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Chasing...

Why on earth would you put all that time and material into a trailer? Are you planning on living in it?

Maybe I'm just dumb, but unless you are going to heat or air condition the trailer 24/7, no amount of insulation is going to really do much the second you have to open up the rear door and ALL the conditioned air escapes?

I don't know...educate me.
 

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I like Green things
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Chasing...

Why on earth would you put all that time and material into a trailer? Are you planning on living in it?

Maybe I'm just dumb, but unless you are going to heat or air condition the trailer 24/7, no amount of insulation is going to really do much the second you have to open up the rear door and ALL the conditioned air escapes?

I don't know...educate me.
Maybe it's Alaska?
 

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Looks bigger and better insulated than my house!
 

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Scooter
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Chasing...

Why on earth would you put all that time and material into a trailer? Are you planning on living in it?

Maybe I'm just dumb, but unless you are going to heat or air condition the trailer 24/7, no amount of insulation is going to really do much the second you have to open up the rear door and ALL the conditioned air escapes?

I don't know...educate me.
Well,.... There is only about $700.00 in material/hardware there, which was also a great tax deduction. As far as time, what you see there was 2 days. When I have the down time I fill it with something, I don't sit well. Up here we can get into the -20's on a regular basis. At times we hit -50. Before when I put the heat to it, I would have to use propane burners or a bullet heater, after all it was a big uninsulated metal freezer. It took alot of BTU's to get the interior up to snuff. The moisture buildup was really bad. I would have ice glaciers on the lid and walls. All of the tools would be dripping with moisture. A friend of mine insulated his trailer and put an rv heater "forced hot air" unit in it and it stays warm and dry. I don't want to see my trailer rust from the inside out and I don't want the moisture damage to the tools. I like me and my guys to be as comfortable as possible when we work in these temps. As far as opening the rear door when it's cold, before without insulation it could get back up to temp within about 45 min. With the insulation that should improve. Under normal circumstances we only have to open the door about 4 times a day. Alot of our work is prefabbed at the shop. But on some of the smaller jobs that are out of town, it is more cost effective to produce everything in the field.

I can either sit home and wait for a cold snap to pass, or I can adapt and keep the revenue rolling in no matter what temps we hit.:thumbsup:

lol....It get's so damn cold up here you can take a cup up hot water and sling it in the air,...... the drops will freeze before they hit the ground. It's kinda like a frozen hell, only worse. But hey we have beautiful summers with 24hrs of daylight! :blink::w00t:Either your freezing to death or your getting sleep deprivation!:laughing:
 

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Totally agree. When I was doing windows, I would run around the house and write down all my capping sizes, then go into the insulated and heated trailer and bend up all the capping.

Keeps you from freezing to death. :thumbsup:

Also keeps your calking workable, etc. Only way to go. I just plug into the customers house, and I've got power and heat.
 

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I've had that same idea for a while now, completely insulating a trailer with full power. Keep all your tools/material nice and warm. Looks real nice.
 

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Finish Carpenter
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with the insulation, you should be able to heat that bad boy up quick when you open the door once you bring it up to temp. Air itself heats fast...it is bringing the walls, floor, shelving, tools etc etc up to temp with it that takes time. You should save money on fuel costs of heating as well....

If I had a trailer I would have it insulated so I could retreat to it on the cold windy days if I had to. Hide out in there for a few min with a cup of coffee and let feeling return to my hands....and I don't have it NEARLY as bad as you guys. It is 16 degrees here and I don't want to go outside. There have been a few jobs where I was working outside in parking lots....that sucked, kept the truck running...
 

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Here is what the fixture looks like.


Thanks
Cole
I have used regular flouresent light in my Step Van & 2003 Sprinter. I kept hitting them with pipes, conduit and breaking them. I decided to use LEDs in my 2005 Sprinter. they are not cheap,and I had to use 10 or 12 to get the light I needed for night work. The LEDs do not draw the battery down like the Flourescent lights. I did use a short doulble tube over my work bench though. I will probably put LEDs in my work trailer when I get to it.
 

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Working
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I have used regular flouresent light in my Step Van & 2003 Sprinter. I kept hitting them with pipes, conduit and breaking them. I decided to use LEDs in my 2005 Sprinter. they are not cheap,and I had to use 10 or 12 to get the light I needed for night work. The LEDs do not draw the battery down like the Flourescent lights. I did use a short doulble tube over my work bench though. I will probably put LEDs in my work trailer when I get to it.
I don't really care about amp draw I'm running off 110v. If it was DC I would be concearned about draw. The purchase price of the lights is a factor but not a deal breaker. I'm allready deep in the trailer another couple hundred isn't going to kill me. The thing for me is 2 lights are a lot easier to worry about breaking than 500 led's. Does your flourescent turn on in the cold, you know before you warm the van up?

I still haven't had a chance to work on it. I would love too, but I have a good reason.:laughing: May push it a little and work on it tuesday.

Cole

Chasing Dreams looks good it will help a ton.
 

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Does your flourescent turn on in the cold, you know before you warm the van up?

I still haven't had a chance to work on it. I would love too, but I have a good reason.:laughing: May push it a little and work on it tuesday.

Cole

Chasing Dreams looks good it will help a ton.
There are flourescent fixtures that do work in the cold, cost more, but work better. I think they work in the cold because of the electronic ballast. If I am wrong, I am sure an elcetrician will set me straight. I got my work bench flourescent from American Van
http://www.americanvan.com/catalog/standard_dynamic_wrap.cfm?FamilyID=298
These are in my Step Van and job trailer http://www.americanvan.com/catalog/standard_large.cfm?FamilyID=106
 

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Working
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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
I returned the pricy lights and got some super cheap ones. They will work until I decide what to do for lighting.

Built the front cabinet that holds the table saw and cms. Added tie down anchors to the drivers side, also put up some hooks.

Those black bins will be gone soon as well. Just haven't made shelfs yet to go inside the upper cabinets.

Five star there are two pics one hooked up and one unhooked. The hitch goes from 13" off the ground to 15" off the ground.






 
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