No one says you have to take it all in 1 pass.:whistling
top rail radius
I'm working on a large but basic, all PT, deck. The top rail is a standard 2x6, and the factory radius edges are still present. I don't like it. I'm wondering what type of radius you guys use.
I really want to put a large radius on it. I have a 3/4" round-over bit and I want to use it. The rail is already installed so I can't use a router table. I'd have to go against the safety warnings run that honking bit in a hand-held router. Is this too risky? Thanks.
I really want to put a large radius on it. I have a 3/4" round-over bit and I want to use it. The rail is already installed so I can't use a router table. I'd have to go against the safety warnings run that honking bit in a hand-held router. Is this too risky? Thanks.
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Absolutly! and thanks for such a fast response!
I think, and have been taught, that the danger with the large bits comes from the fact that there is a large amount of wood in contact with the bit even when taking small bites. That concerns me. Have you used large bits in a hand-held before?
I think, and have been taught, that the danger with the large bits comes from the fact that there is a large amount of wood in contact with the bit even when taking small bites. That concerns me. Have you used large bits in a hand-held before?
2 1/2" flat bottom/w replaceable cutters. Ran hundreds of feet of 3/16" dadoes with this. Also used to use a 1/2" radius nosing bit in 1 1/2 horse Craftsman router. Use of both hands IS recommended.:thumbsup:Absolutly! and thanks for such a fast response!
I think, and have been taught, that the danger with the large bits comes from the fact that there is a large amount of wood in contact with the bit even when taking small bites. That concerns me. Have you used large bits in a hand-held before?
3/4 round over isn't too much for a handheld, but like loneframer said, use two hands.
I have used a 1'' round over in a Makita router ran by my very own hands controled by my reckless ways. You gutta be real carefull,make a couple of passes and run it sharp like real sharp get that carbide freashen up before you start. Dont linger in one spot make the runs slow and straight. JonMOn
This wouldn't even notice you were doing anything:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/574277/Festool-OF-2200-Router
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/574277/Festool-OF-2200-Router
Ya 3/4" should be fine. I've routed some PT before that the bit more or less shot long shards of wood at my legs, so becareful I had little swords stuck all over my pants:laughing:
Dave
Dave
Warner that is one badass router. Im not real sure all that power would help if the user wasent seasoned in But I like the thing! J.
Its a brute.Warner that is one badass router. Im not real sure all that power would help if the user wasent seasoned in But I like the thing! J.
You can sit it on a work table/bench, turn it on and walk away from it.
It will sit perfectly still while it is running.
They make some of the most well balanced, smooth running routers.
You guys ever held on tight ans went for a ride on Poter Cable's big beast of a router they made?
I've been using roundover bits on top rails forever, you won't have a problem as long you use sharp bits.
And a fine piece of ironIts a brute.
You can sit it on a work table/bench, turn it on and walk away from it.
It will sit perfectly still while it is running.
They make some of the most well balanced, smooth running routers.
You guys ever held on tight ans went for a ride on Poter Cable's big beast of a router they made?
they are. :thumbsup:
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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