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Toilet flange 1/2" proud of floor

40240 Views 30 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  The Coastal Craftsman
I have a friend who wants a toilet installed in his basement. The plumbers left the flange up 3/8 or 1/2 in anticipation of a floor covering. I've never installed a toilet on a flange which wasn't flush with the floor.

Question-How far can the flange stick up and still allow the toilet to be installed?
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As long as it doesn't actually touch
the china.
That makes sense, thanks.
It will be fine
I have a friend who wants a toilet installed in his basement. The plumbers left the flange up 3/8 or 1/2 in anticipation of a floor covering. I've never installed a toilet on a flange which wasn't flush with the floor.

Question-How far can the flange stick up and still allow the toilet to be installed?
If the toilet clears the flange. --Use in old fashioned all wax ring--Some of the ones with plastic cones also have a foam ring under the wax. MIKE
I'm no plumber:laughing:, but I'll second what mikeswoods said. You should be good to go.


Dave
:laughing::laughing::laughing:
You should be good to go.
Those dogs! I didn't know that they were cheating me out of wax?:furious:
Steve

quote=mikeswoods;785265]If the toilet clears the flange. --Use in old fashioned all wax ring--Some of the ones with plastic cones also have a foam ring under the wax. MIKE[/quote]
The flange is too high, guaranteed any seal will fail over the course of time, but what do I know, I'm just a plumber. Don't be a hack do it right.
I have a friend who wants a toilet installed in his basement. The plumbers left the flange up 3/8 or 1/2 in anticipation of a floor covering. I've never installed a toilet on a flange which wasn't flush with the floor.

When a flange is installed improperly and there is a gap below the flange.
When a toilet is set the wax is pushed through the bolt slots.

When this occurs the seal will fail and leak water or worse yet
(sewer gas). As a plumber I would opt to repair the flange and set it correctly. But there is an alternative, you can set on a rubber gasket.
IE: Wolverine Brass 3/8", 9/16", 3/4" and 1".
I agree with this,

If its an unfinished basement than looks aren't as important as functionality, it should work fine.

Just cut a piece of PT plywood out, a little bigger than toilet, and drop down over the flange. You can trace it out on the plywood just bigger than toilet, paint it, etc....

Toilet has a solid base to rest on, and this can easily be reversed when the need to install flooring arises later down the road.

No leaks, Proper support and elevation, and removable with little effort for later upgrades. :thumbsup:

This might not be the right way, but your in a situation that isn't right to start with! You decide?
Raise the floor a ¼".
If $ are an issue, Raise the area just under the bowl, Match the footprint of the bowl, cut a piece of wood, (Stone would be better), paint it white to match the bowl, set bowl on top of buildup. G
Any access to the flange? Is it PVC or cast?

It is installed in a basement slab? Has the concrete been poured yet? Can you lower the flange before the 'crete goes in or bust up the floor around the flange, lower it and pour a new section?
I'm confused.
Is it ½" to the top of the flange,
or is the bottom of the flange ½"
above the floor? :blink:
Good question - I assumed 1/2" to the bottom of the flange + the flange thickness....
I'm confused.
Is it ½" to the top of the flange,
or is the bottom of the flange ½"
above the floor? :blink:
1/2" from top of floor to top of flange.

Thanks for all the advice, guys, I think I've got it under control now.

I'll see if the crapper clears the flange and if it does, I'm good. If it doesn't, I'll use some PT plywood underneath, except I'll paint it some brown color so leaks won't be as obvious.

The guy figured out he needs a sink now to wash his hands after using the toilet, so it probably won't be long until a finished floor comes into the picture as well.
It is official, soon to become a hack job, I knew it.
1/2" from top of floor to top of flange.

Thanks for all the advice, guys, I think I've got it under control now.

I'll see if the crapper clears the flange and if it does, I'm good. If it doesn't, I'll use some PT plywood underneath, except I'll paint it some brown color so leaks won't be as obvious.

The guy figured out he needs a sink now to wash his hands after using the toilet, so it probably won't be long until a finished floor comes into the picture as well.
So....

He should reset the flange now(to avoid being a hack), then deal with a flange that's too low later... got it:thumbsup:
, so it probably won't be long until a finished floor comes into the picture as well.
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