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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm curious what the group does when they encounter a switch/outlet whose "ears" are not supported against the drywall because the opening was cut too large?

Hearing neat tips/tricks from folks from all over the country is my fav part about this forum.

Regards,

Harry.
 

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diplomat
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Fix it with hot mud, preferably before painting. In old work, green spacers. Look like mini Legos.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Golden. any idea who makes the green spacers? my google-fu is bringing up all types of things related to "green spacers"
 

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I do this alot when tiling backslpashes.

I buy the 100 packs of 1 3/4 #6 screws because i need them for the extra leingth. I have taken to using the little nuts as a chaser to get the standoff you need. You can get to the point where you tighten the nut aginst the outlet just as you get to the proper distance out.

or I just pack it with wet Grout and call it a WIN :thumbup:
 
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I'm curious what the group does when they encounter a switch/outlet whose "ears" are not supported against the drywall because the opening was cut too large?

Hearing neat tips/tricks from folks from all over the country is my fav part about this forum.

Regards,

Harry.
fibafuse it:thumbsup:
 

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add green lid mud or hot mud around the opening and cut and apply fibafuse? I'm sure i can find tons of posts about fibafuse, but in short what's the difference than just using mesh tape?
fibafuse keeps it shape...it dose not sag down.sometimes I use both .this is just a tapecoat with a 1.5'' gap. see no sagging
 

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A sparky showed me how he does it.. He carries a length of plastic tubing and just cuts it to the length he needs
 
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add green lid mud or hot mud around the opening and cut and apply fibafuse? I'm sure i can find tons of posts about fibafuse, but in short what's the difference than just using mesh tape?
no need for durabond or ezsand when you use fibafuse ...I lite to use AP with mud max ///if you were doing a quick patch I would use hot mud:clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
awesome thanks for the great pics. I was beginning to think I was the only one with really bad drywall cutouts.

Suppose I should start another thread on the tips/tricks needed for accurate cuts everytime. Lord knows i'm no pro drywaller and i'm sure I will need these tricks for some of my future work... Still curious about the lipstick trick i've heard of marking the outside of boxes, then placing the drywall against the box.
 

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I will need these tricks for some of my future work... Still curious about the lipstick trick i've heard of marking the outside of boxes, then placing the drywall against the box.
Screw that. Tack it up, use a RotoZip with a guide bit.
 

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awesome thanks for the great pics. I was beginning to think I was the only one with really bad drywall cutouts.

Suppose I should start another thread on the tips/tricks needed for accurate cuts everytime. Lord knows i'm no pro drywaller and i'm sure I will need these tricks for some of my future work... Still curious about the lipstick trick i've heard of marking the outside of boxes, then placing the drywall against the box.
I did not do the hanging...I am just a finisher ,,,I here this alot" can you fix that"
 
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