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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
in an area where traffic will need to be opened after 24hrs, what you used to protect the floor and allow the solvents to continue to burn out? When blocking off access for 3-7 days to allow the final coat of poly to cure to sufficiently, will rosin paper/kraft paper, a layer of luan, painters drop cloth or some other means of protection help to allow the curing to take place?
 

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I would be concerned about going with oils and covering them. I am no expert but i think during the curing process coating need to breath. There are some very high quality water based finishes that i would consider, GMOD.
 

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On new const, as a rule, I ask the contractor to be down to final, final finish in the areas I laid new floor before I put the top coat on. Light scratches will cover with the next coat, I'm going to sandscreen anyhow before final coat. Depending on the contractor, most use kraft paper & painters tarps. Kraft paper covering entire floor, taped at every seem with painters tarps on top. Some use luan or cardboard in the high traffic areas on top of the kraft paper. I've never had a failure or callback using this system & I finish the majority of my floors with oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
WB poly is rapidly becoming the choice of materials.
because of the dry time?

recently I noticed a Minwax 'super fast drying' floor poly. Has anyone used/heard of it? the literature claims recoat in 3-4 and dry time in 12-18hrs. I use to think the longer the better, but with today's scientific approach to improving the chemistry of materials....maybe it is better
 

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Search the net as there's a lot of info out there. Very little negative for WB.

Was on a job a couple months ago. Generally first 2 coats dry very quickly < 2hrs. Addl coats start to take longer. Can go 4 coats for a nice finish. Floor was screened between last two coats.

Finisher was applying 6 - 7 pm. We came back next AM - all dry, no softness. Finisher was walking on it (not us). Ready that day. He was putting on the shoe....

Previous job different finisher using OB poly - couldn't walk on it for 3 - 4 days after last coat.

http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwoodinstaller/finishes-water.htm
 

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because of the dry time?

recently I noticed a Minwax 'super fast drying' floor poly. Has anyone used/heard of it? the literature claims recoat in 3-4 and dry time in 12-18hrs. I use to think the longer the better, but with today's scientific approach to improving the chemistry of materials....maybe it is better

Oils used to dominate the market because of quality.. Voc laws forced oil products to remove many of the chemicals that made them so durable. This change in law forced the manufactureres to create water base products that could compete with oils. The new age water base products can be expensive, but perform very well. GMOD
 

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kraft paper floor protection

I too would be wary of sealing it completely before curing. However, once it is pretty well cured, we cover it with reinforced kraft paper adn tape it at every seam plus cardboard or plywood at the heavy areas like Pinwheel mentioned above.

bottom line: be careful with it! :thumbsup:
 

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because of the dry time?

recently I noticed a Minwax 'super fast drying' floor poly. Has anyone used/heard of it? the literature claims recoat in 3-4 and dry time in 12-18hrs. I use to think the longer the better, but with today's scientific approach to improving the chemistry of materials....maybe it is better
I wouldn't use anything with a Minwax label on a floor. Hell, I don't even use Minwax to stain trim. Look into Bona Mega for a residential floor. Great cure times, user friendly, and very durable in my experiences.

I have used it on stair treads when time is a concern. Went back 2 years later for more work and they looked flawless.....homie has 3 kids and 2 big dogs and a live in grandma.

Parks also has some inexpensive wb finishes that seem to be pretty durable. A bit less user friendly imo, but results have been good.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ended up using Bona DriFast stain and Mega for the poly coat. The flooring I started w/ was a Dundee prefinished gunstock with microbevel-took a LOT of sanding to get the bevels out and I am extremely happy with the range of color (hence the original question looking for a natural stain)-it fits well with the trimwork.

The Bona stain took a mere 2+ hours to dry, then the coat of poly which took around 3hrs for the first coat then applied a second coat. So, for a sytem where a quick turn around is necessary, this was great. Started at 10pm and was ready for (light) traffic the following morning at 8am.

my finish isn't silky smooth...can I sand it down and polish (like VCT) after it cures? Is there a trick to a smooth application? is appication via a spray gun acceptable?
 

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The last directions I read on the WB poly said you must screen after 12 or 24 ? hrs for the next coat to adhere properly.

The one I was around a few months ago the guy screened between coats and applied a the last 2 coats super heavy with an applicator on a stick. Its almost like trying to put on a 1/8" amount on the floor. Each one of these looked a lot better. It levels out and all the air bubbles and stuff settle out. This takes about 5 - 6 hrs to dry. Screen and coat again. The finished product looked great but was not a slick as the conventional OB poly finish and I dont know why ?

The screening is with a fine mesh screen and slow buffer. Its all avail at the rental store. You have to vac (hepa bag or dw bag in a shop vac) and tack out with a friendly product to the WB poly. Is that a bit of water or denatured alcohol, I'm not sure ? Call the poly tech support. The 1 st coat of WB poly will significantly raise the grain as will WB stain. I suppose you used OB stain ? Then the WB poly. That's why you have to screen. This guy used a dw pole with #220 screen on the last 2 coats cause he already took everything back to the rental store. He's a ho / investor and took a lot of short cuts and doesn't have the view that we have, and its not my business but I looked at a lot of stuff on the www. I haven't refin strip floors in years.

I don't think spaying would work out. You need to use the applicator.
 

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You need to use a T bar applicator to get a baby butt smooth finish & always keep a wet edge.
 
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