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Tips for water line hook-ups

2965 Views 18 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Leo G
Hi guys, I work with my father doing excavation, and we do a few water lines every year, usually with the help of a plumber. Most we do are 3/4 or 1" K type copper pipe. I am interested in being able to do the hook up in the basement too, but I dont do too much plumbing. I know the basics of sweating joints and so on, but I'm looking for some advice, tricks methods for doing hook ups so i can do the job myself if the plumber is not available. What tools do I need for the tool box other than the obvious? Thanks for any and all input!!
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I think you'll need some way to connect a piece of pressure treated wood to the concrete or masonry wall. Maybe you don't have this yet. You can use a powder-actuated device, or you can screw a hole, insert a plastic plug, and screw the 2x against the wall. I recommend you screw some screws in the 2x with the tips pointing out a bit, then whack it against the wall. Now drill holes where to marks are. If this doesn't work well, drill holes in the wood and mark through the holes with a masonry bit.

Now you'll need a shut-off valve and I think you'll have the best luck with a ball valve which allows full flow. Get one with a drain above it. I also have installed a spigot right above the shut-off valve, which allows me to drain water into a bucket and not spray everywhere.

Other than this, you'll just need your usual plumbing fittings and pipe.
Thanks, I hadnt thought of the 2X. We have the remington powder actuated device, so thats what I will use for fastening.:thumbsup:
I think you'll need some way to connect a piece of pressure treated wood to the concrete or masonry wall. Maybe you don't have this yet. You can use a powder-actuated device, or you can screw a hole, insert a plastic plug, and screw the 2x against the wall. I recommend you screw some screws in the 2x with the tips pointing out a bit, then whack it against the wall. Now drill holes where to marks are. If this doesn't work well, drill holes in the wood and mark through the holes with a masonry bit.

Now you'll need a shut-off valve and I think you'll have the best luck with a ball valve which allows full flow. Get one with a drain above it. I also have installed a spigot right above the shut-off valve, which allows me to drain water into a bucket and not spray everywhere.

Other than this, you'll just need your usual plumbing fittings and pipe.
Be careful with that PAD on concrete block. You don't want to blow it out. You'll probably need a hammer drill along the line somewhere, so you might want to invest in one.
If you need to make a new hole in the basement wall get a diamond core bit and drill. Copper tubing cutter, (dont use a sawzall or hacksaw) deburring tool and hammer type flaring tools.... That'll get you started!
The plumbing contractor you usually work with has all the proper tools AND LICENCES.:rolleyes:
I knew this response was coming at some point, and I dont disagree. Where we live requires no occupational lisence though, and any time we can work with a plumber we do. We do what we do best, and let them what they do best, its a win win for all. BUT, sometimes we need to keep moving and we can't line up a plumber, these are the times that it would be nice to be able to do our own connections. Not trying to steel and work from the plumbing community.
The plumbing contractor you usually work with has all the proper tools AND LICENCES.:rolleyes:
Meaning you will do it again and again, not just this one time, sounds like your going to make it a habit to me.
, these are the times that it would be nice to be able to do our own connections. Not trying to steel and work from the plumbing community.
Don't sweat it, Nedly. If we could get all the electricians and plumbers in one place at the same time and call in an air strike, it wouldn't be the worst thing that has ever happened.

I was at Moose Lake last year before going to Lowville for a wedding. Know that area? Seems nice now that there are ventilators set up to blow away the smell of the dairy manure. I never cared for dairy manure.
Nice.

Always nice to see someone that is qualified to paint everyone with his broadbrush.
Don't sweat it, Nedly. If we could get all the electricians and plumbers in one place at the same time and call in an air strike, it wouldn't be the worst thing that has ever happened.
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Well, 3 plumbers showed up in this thread, and not one helped with his question. :rolleyes:

For the record, no I dont agree with his broad statement, but I understand his frustration.
Nice.

Always nice to see someone that is qualified to paint everyone with his broadbrush.
Why help someone who has all intension's to take work away from a plumber.
Well, 3 plumbers showed up in this thread, and not one helped with his question. :rolleyes:
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Ron, I agree... but why come in here and poke him with a stick?
To wake him up, is that not why someone would poke somebody with a stick. :laughing:
Hopefully not on my basement walls. :no:
Thanks, I hadnt thought of the 2X. We have the remington powder actuated device, so thats what I will use for fastening.:thumbsup:
I sure hope you dont own a shovel Ron, if you do, please dont make a habit of using it, but rather call in a excavator for a few minutes work.


Maybe a moderator could close this thread, its heading in the wrong direction. It seems like I may have ruffled some feathers, which was not my intention, next time I will ask the excavators, I am sure someone there knows how to sweat a joint or 2, how hard can it be.
Meaning you will do it again and again, not just this one time, sounds like your going to make it a habit to me.
Yea your right it should be closed, your no plumber and you should not be taking jobs away from the plumbers.
good luck with that.
next time I will ask the excavators, I am sure someone there knows how to sweat a joint or 2, how hard can it be.
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Done

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